I realize that there is alot of information in the FAQ but I figured if I just make an image of what I've got and paste it here, you guys can tell me if anything's wrong!

this is for pumpgas (91 octane) - not sure how much boost I can run though
I'm running a big FMIC and a greddy TD07-25A turbocharger - all stock plugs for now, but I'm going to go to 9EQ's as soon as the dealer gets 'em in.

does my timing and split look OK? Any areas I should change?
What kindof AFR"s should I be seeing under boost, 11:1?
the engine has never seen more than 2-3 psi at this point, so I have no idea if these numbers "work" or not.
I have the ECU assuming that the left mark on the pully is TDC as there's some conflicting information as to if it's 0 or 5deg ATDC.

 

any ideas here?

 

Ok I will give it a try since nobody seems to cooperate. I think there should be less split timing in lower load, than the split increases as the load increases. 12 degrees of split is good at 15 psi.

Also you should have way less advance at 99 kpa (which I assume is relative pressure, so it's about 14.3 psi). By 15 psi you should have 15 degree advance.

Please note:
I have no experience tuning a rotary engine or a car but I'm pretty confident with the theory that I have learned here. Maybe some more experimented people will correct me and this will help you start your thread.

Good luck!

Alex

 

that map is in "real" kpa, 99kpa = 0psi boost.

 

Hum.... ok that change everything

 

timing looks a bit advanced for a turbo that big, but it really depends on the setup.

what compression ratio, intake temps, etc?

 

halfbridge S5TII engine (9.0:1 compression)
stock intake manifolds, greddy FMIC.. intake temps around 120F under boost, I believe.. it's been 60-70 here at night when I've been "testing" the car. redline is 9000rpm. (s5 rotors, rx8 stationaries, race bearings, FD oil pressure regulator and and corner seal springs, 1pc corner seals, etc)

I run 91 (but not crappy california 91), 94 is available in my area but not in my town so I'm trying to stick to 91.

Any ideas as to how much boost I can run, I've been running 8PSI so far on a far more "retarded" timing map, the car is fast, but not significantly faster than last year's stockport/stockIC/10psi. I have /more/ then enough fuel to probably run a 5:1 AFR at 20PSI, so I don't think it'll ever be a problem.

 

how do you know it makes power to 9k if it hasn't been dyno'd yet?

 

absolutely no need for that...hopefully you were just getting a point across.

 

Maybe the OP plans to run alcohol?

 

no was just getting a point across :P

it hasn't been dynoed yet, that's just the safe maximum RPM for the motor... it has porting and turbo sized to make power well into the 8000RPM range though at least.

anyways, back on topic here... what AFR should I be looking to tune for under boost, and does this timing map look reasonable?

 

safe maximum? it's a subjective definition.

is your rotating assembly balanced?

 

I don't want this thread to be about whether or not my engine can rev to 9k or not, I want to know how to make it do so without detontating and making somewhere near the optimum amount of power that it can produce!

 

your tuner should be able to answer that question when he gets done with it.

 

umm, I don't have a tuner, hence this thread.

 

a turbo bridgeport isn't the kind of engine you want to learn how to tune on.
steep learning curve.

 

ANYWAYS.... does anyone here know if this timing map is going to work?

 

i already told you it looked too far advanced.

play it safe. start at 35 degrees at your highest vacuum point, ramp it down to 25 degrees at the vacuum/boost threshold, and then ramp down to 10 degrees at 15psi, then get it to a tuner.

 

there are no tuners within like, 500 miles of here.

well there are some right at the 300 mile mark, but none that deal with rotaries.

And I'm not going on a 600 mile roundtrip to pay someone that's never tuned a rotary before to tune and possibly damage my car, no thanks.
closest "rx7" shop that does tuning is like, 1000+ miles in each direction.... not really an option.

 

just fly somebody out.

 

Magnus tunes rotaries. They are in Toronto. Even if Marco is a bit of a douche, it is still better than guesswork, like Guitar is trying to explain.

Or learn learn learn, which is what many people here have done. But that will take more than one thread. And it would probably mean experimenting on your own car.

 

**** it...
lock your timing at 8*, afr's about 10.5:1, and don't go past 12 psi and you shouldn't ever blow anything up.

of course you won't make any power, but that's beside the point.

 

yeah I want to make a bit of power here :P

right now (at 8psi, current timing map and afr's around 10.5:1) it's slower than it was on stock ports/stock turbo at 8PSI.... I didn't spent all this money to go slowly.

of course I am willing to do some experimenting on my car but there's no sense in me doing things that obviously won't work, hence this thread.

I'm running about 14deg timing at 8PSI but I have a feeling that the way we set it up the whole map is 5 deg retarded from where it says it is because of the mark on the pulley being 5 ATDC instead of TDC.

anyways, I'm going to a dyno on saturday, they do tuning there but the guy is clueless, hopefully I can get some runs in to get it going.

How's that split map look anyways? Any issues there?

 

tell him to keep your afr's in the high 10's. if you have an egt after the turbo, tell him to adjust your timing so it doesn't get much above 700C during a 4th gear pull.

you should probably end up somewhere between 8-12ish* at 15psi, but that's definately not set in stone...just ballpark.

 

12 deg of timing up to 10psi, then increases to 17 deg up to 20psi
Running 11.3 AFR without water injection, and 11.8 with injection