I'm gonna be making some crazy power once my car is finished, and i dont think the HKS TwinPower will be able to provide enough spark.

Just curious as to what you 'veterans' are running on your monster hp setups.

 

look what the search function turned up?! LOL

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ight=tii+coils

 

 

Stock Turbo II ignition is good to right up around that range, believe it or not. I have no idea why, but it is.

B

 

People making claims of 600rwhp (dynojet) which would be around 690bhp? should be running alot faster than 133mph in the quater in a "stripped out" 1st gen !

If you want to run race plugs (most reliable) and get the best spark you need a CDI system of some desciption. Your ignition system will always be a compromise if you are running the std "weak" stock set up.

 

Hi, Rice Racing. Been awhile.

I agree on the trap speed part. But, I'm not sure about the "weak" stock setup. There's alot of knowledge and data out there that shows the stock Turbo II ignition to be quite good. I've been told repeatedly by Matt Leicher that it's very good ignition hardware and that there's no reason to add any boxes or what have you to it.

I, myself, have run nearly 500bhp with it w/o addition...

I suppose it's up to 'whatever works', you know?

B

 

MSD 6AL's on both the leading and trailing with 11.5 NGK spark plugs using factory coils. No misfiring problems ever encounted running at over 30psi of boost with or without nitrous turning 10K rpm. A/F ratio is always in the 10.5 to 11.0 range and have been as low as 10.0.
There are stronger coils than the factory ones but I've found the stock FC coils to be the most reliable.
I'm also running on Methanol fuel presently with the same ignition setup at 25psi making 650 rwhp at 9.5k rpm without any ingnition problems.
In my opinion the greatest advantage to running an ignition amplifier would be the ability to run colder spark plugs at much safer or richer A/F ratios without any misfire or power lost not to mention the ability to keep the cold plugs alive during daily or normal driving.
For some reason I've found cars that run with Ign. amplifiers being able to run more boost on pump gas safely!

crispeed
87 RX-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs
un-tubbed

 

Chris nailed it!

You can run richer + colder plugs and have no misfires with an ignition amplifier.

I am sure fantastic things can be achieved with the transistor ignition set up, but you sure as hell can't run proper race plugs + have a safe rich fuel mixture or run stuff like water injection when your power levels start exceeding 500bhp on a 13B.

Then there is the fact that CDI equipped cars do make more power too & get better economy to boot!

You will always end up making a compromise on stock ign v's racing ign.

CDI alll the way!

 

Okay I'm running stock ignition with high performance ignition wires. What do I need? Jegs has the MSD 6A for $149.99, Jeg's number is 121-6200. Do I need two of these? Do I need any additional wires?

I'm currently running 15psi and NGK stock 9s all around and the plugs are new(less than 500 miles) and it misses above 5k rpms. I have NGK B105EGV plugs I will be putting in this week. I will eventually be running 25 psi with 110 octane and water injection so I guess I need these MSDs.

Thanx for any help.

Ken

 

I agree, although, I was only making around 500rwhp. I used the stock Turbo II leading coil and stock trailing for up to 28lbs of boost and it worked great. At the track I usually ran about 20psi.

 

Do you guys recommend any particular ignition amplifier? The MSD 6AL replaces the stock ignitor(s), correct?

B

 

this brings up a point i wanted to know about. i was discussing with a friend switching to TII coils on my FD.
#1. should i? from what i know they (TII) were strong from the factory.
#2. if i did do this, sould i do both T & L TII coils?
#3. if only leading... how would you set this up w/ the haltech as the ignightor is on the coil pack for the TII..
#4. why would i only do leading?
#5. if i did both leading and trailing TII coils, would i have to change anything in the ignition setup page? i know how to wire the coils for a TII as i have done it before, but just wondering about *telling* the e6k i did it. i know the ecu can interface with either the *distributor* or the internal reluctor but when just changing the coils/ignightor do i have to tell it?

 

1 -- I think so, yes. They're proven to be stronger.
2 -- Unsure about this. I'd suspect as much. Just getting the ignition hardware off the engine oughta be warrant enough.
3 -- Run the IGN1 out lead (light green on the E6K if memory serves) to the PINK lead on the power plug for the leading ignitor/coil pack.
4 -- I don't know.
5 -- Yep -- Modify the Ignition setup for a 4.5 to 5ms coil dwell time, Output Type Constant Charge, and Output Edge falling.

The Distributor part is for the trigger; no need to mess with that.

B

 

Ken I have used MSD 6A before and they work well, you can keep every other IGN component you have and simply add the 6A to your set up, yes you will need three box's to do all your coils.

I went with the Crane Hi6 set up with Lx92 CDI coils (many reasons for this "please read other thread") and it is super!

I will tell you now, with WI and that boost level combined with race gas & race plugs you have NO HOPE of running without a misfire on stock ignition-even on 15psi let alone 25psi. WI increased the ign requirement greatly on my car.

 

Cool, Rice. I'm interested in looking for better and stronger ignition components for my car as well as my friend Tony's rides.

Crane Hi6 was for the leadings?

B

 

thank you. that was the reasurance i was looking for.
also thanks for the reminder of dwell time and i know the distributor was for pick up only, but couldn't think clearly of what would change by changing the ignightor/coils. thanks

 

peter do you have any personal experience with the ICE packs? i coppied this info from an email from a friend from OZ telling me about people down there have a lot of success with them....

IGNITION OUTPUT BOOSTER

The ICE Ignition Output Booster takes a battery input anywhere from 10-15 volts and produces a steady output of 16 volts, supplied either to the coil as with HEI systems, or the main power cables of CDI systems. The state of charge of the battery then has no effect on ignition system performance, as the ignition supply voltage always remains constant. This is especially important when not using an alternator, which is a common occurrence in many forms of motorsport.



The ICE Ignition Output Booster uses an interleaved boost –converter topology switching at 35 kHz for low noise and low output current ripple. A pair of toroidal shaped powdered iron coils are used, along with Mosfet switches and schottky diodes for highest efficiency and compact size and weight. The maximum rated output current is 7 amps continuous, 10 amps for 30 seconds. With CDI systems, a capacitor is also employed in conjunction with the booster.

Features:

* Attractive black anodized aluminum case

* Durable three dimensional laser etching

* Stainless steel tamper proof screws

* Internal serial numbers for security

Benefits:

* Proven performance and reliability

* Easy installation – components supplied

* Unmatched three year warranty

* As used by winning racers in all classes

Pricing:

* To suit HEI ignition systems



Dimensions:

* 140mmL x 105mmW x 32mmH

* 375 grams, (13 ounces)

 

I have seen them on MANY cars in Victoria ( I am guessing this is the state of origin?) I think some or maybe a majority are running these things as an alternative to a CDI unit.

Just guessing? I never saw them till I went down south! I would think they are not necessary in a conventional electrical system as found on a road car, and if you get a good CDI system then I can't see the benifit in buying those things as well

Yes Crane Hi6 and LX92 for each leading plug ! That combo will fire pretty much anything you can throw at it ! I love my units and highly recommend it to anyone, specially if you can score a special "kit" deal of jegs.com or the like

 

So you just run boxes on the leading plugs...correct?

Would there be any advantage to running boxes on the trailing also?

 

The Denso coils with the built in ignitors work well also.

 

Is anyone having problems, as described in the previous thread, with timing and the power fc? Or have those issues been addressed and worked around? And are you gusy running a split or not?

- Steiner

 

(4) Crane Hi-6's and (4) Crane LX92's work well

 

Is anyone using 1 CDI box per rotor to fire both plugs with no split? Anyone try it but have problems?

 

Turbo 11 trailing coils as leading coils (on anFD) , one per plug together with a pair of MSD 6A's , one on each of these coils . Trailing setup remains stock.

 

My dream setup right there.. That setup is money...