T4 N/A Turbine Housing?
08-01-11, 07:48 PM
#1
T4 N/A Turbine Housing?
My car has started to smoke a ton of blue smoke at idle. So I took the turbo off to see if its the turbo or internal. 3 hours later, a broken thumb and I finally got it off due to one stubborn bolt and taking it apart, its dry and clean. Now the issue is I had to start it up to move it up the driveway and it doesn't smoke when cold so if there was oil in the turbine housing it might have burned it off?
Anyway, does anyone know if a turbine housing without the CHRA exists to run it N/A as a test to see if its internal?
thewird
Anyway, does anyone know if a turbine housing without the CHRA exists to run it N/A as a test to see if its internal?
thewird
08-01-11, 09:22 PM
#3
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Isn't your turbo brand new from Precision?
Anyways, just cut some thicker sheet metal into a round piece, drill 6 holes around it to match the housing, and use some Permatex copper silicone to seal it temporarily.
Anyways, just cut some thicker sheet metal into a round piece, drill 6 holes around it to match the housing, and use some Permatex copper silicone to seal it temporarily.
08-01-11, 10:37 PM
#4
Yah the turbo is new and ball bearing but **** happens right. Haven't even ran the car this year yet, one problem after another. Finally got everything else sorted and then I start smoking out everyone when sitting in an intersection 
Hmm, that's an interesting idea, guess I'll try to find a plate to cut up. Would be easier if I could just buy something.
thewird
Hmm, that's an interesting idea, guess I'll try to find a plate to cut up. Would be easier if I could just buy something.
thewird
08-01-11, 10:52 PM
#5
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If you don't want to do it yourself, just go to a local grinding shop with the turbine housing and tell them what you want. I doubt they'd charge you more than $20 for the piece?
08-02-11, 05:31 AM
#6
My car has started to smoke a ton of blue smoke at idle. So I took the turbo off to see if its the turbo or internal. 3 hours later, a broken thumb and I finally got it off due to one stubborn bolt and taking it apart, its dry and clean. Now the issue is I had to start it up to move it up the driveway and it doesn't smoke when cold so if there was oil in the turbine housing it might have burned it off?
Anyway, does anyone know if a turbine housing without the CHRA exists to run it N/A as a test to see if its internal?
thewird
Anyway, does anyone know if a turbine housing without the CHRA exists to run it N/A as a test to see if its internal?
thewird
08-02-11, 01:30 PM
#7
I actually had considered that as the oil is still from last year but I was kinda convinced it was the turbo so went ahead and took it off. Do you really think old fuel contaminated oil could cause a leak at the control rings and then seal up again once good oil is put in there? I was planning to change the oil once everything was fixed and track ready again.
Anyway, since the car is already apart, going to be trying the N/A turbine housing and if it still smokes will try to change the oil. Thanks.
thewird
Anyway, since the car is already apart, going to be trying the N/A turbine housing and if it still smokes will try to change the oil. Thanks.
thewird
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08-03-11, 12:30 PM
#9
I had a breather filter on a hose get pushed too far onto the hose at a race (probably fidgety tech fingers).
It left the hose end butted against the flat metal filter cap and pressurized the sump so the car started to smoke like crazy out the turbo rear seal till I pulled the filter back.
So, check your sump vent- taking off the turbo would stop the smoke in this case, but the turbo wouldn't be the problem.
As far as running without the turbo- I had a friend machine a metal disc to fit where the CHRA goes into the turbo housing for running NA and is held down by the same bolts/bridge washers as the CHRA would be. Then I made block off plates for oil/coolant feed/drain.
It left the hose end butted against the flat metal filter cap and pressurized the sump so the car started to smoke like crazy out the turbo rear seal till I pulled the filter back.
So, check your sump vent- taking off the turbo would stop the smoke in this case, but the turbo wouldn't be the problem.
As far as running without the turbo- I had a friend machine a metal disc to fit where the CHRA goes into the turbo housing for running NA and is held down by the same bolts/bridge washers as the CHRA would be. Then I made block off plates for oil/coolant feed/drain.
. Thanks for suggestion though.
08-03-11, 01:54 PM
#12
thewird
08-03-11, 07:36 PM
#14
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running NA-t is/was a really great way to tune the vacuum parts of the ecu map too.
MY friend took his turbo off, and found his 20B was pinging. its scary when a 3 rotor pings!
08-16-11, 07:43 PM
#15
Well, good news, bad news. Finally got around to installing the blockoff and buying a cap for the oil feed. Took it for a 20 minute drive, got home and the exhaust was CLEAN, zero smoke at all. So its not the engine, thats the good news.
Bad news is the turbo is pretty much brand spanking new, maybe 1-2k on it at most, barely ran a month. Arg... what to do.... Here's a pic of the setup ^_^
Note: I did not change the oil or anything on the car so everything was the same as when it was smoking.
I wonder if a GT4094R would fit where the 6765 is....
thewird
Bad news is the turbo is pretty much brand spanking new, maybe 1-2k on it at most, barely ran a month. Arg... what to do.... Here's a pic of the setup ^_^
Note: I did not change the oil or anything on the car so everything was the same as when it was smoking.
I wonder if a GT4094R would fit where the 6765 is....
thewird
08-16-11, 10:48 PM
#19
Tune seemed ok except when I gave it WOT it was a richer (high 11's) then I would tune an N/A at WOT but then again its not supposed to be running without a turbo hehe. I also didn't take it much over 4k, I was just testing the smoking, not power runs lol.
Hmm, no way to fit the 4094R in there?
thewird
08-17-11, 12:30 PM
#20
I had a problem with my turbo smoking from excessive oil pressure at low rpm.
One way I fixed it was to put my sump under vacuum so the oil drained more easily from the turbo, but even with an oil air separator I could never keep from pulling oil into the intake manifold.
The final fix was when I put in race rotor oil jets in the eccentric shaft instead of the stock check valves that close at low rpm as it lowered the oil pressure at idle and low rpm.
Now I run a simple vented catch can and get an ounce or two of oil from vapors collected after several races.
One way I fixed it was to put my sump under vacuum so the oil drained more easily from the turbo, but even with an oil air separator I could never keep from pulling oil into the intake manifold.
The final fix was when I put in race rotor oil jets in the eccentric shaft instead of the stock check valves that close at low rpm as it lowered the oil pressure at idle and low rpm.
Now I run a simple vented catch can and get an ounce or two of oil from vapors collected after several races.
08-18-11, 12:42 PM
#25
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By the sounds of it you track your car quite often, so you'll have to pick the worse of evils, you are asking a lot of your car to perform equally well at both.
On that note, the jets lower oil pressure at idle in order to provide better rotor cooling at higher RPM, but how much oil pressure does a rotary really need at idle?
On that note, the jets lower oil pressure at idle in order to provide better rotor cooling at higher RPM, but how much oil pressure does a rotary really need at idle?