hey guys....had some probs with the t62-1 which I purchased...have the opportunity to go with a t66 instead....I have looked over dyno sheets on wargasms site...I didnt see any which were putting down 420-440 to the wheels.

I know the t66 is a big shaft turbo and can assume that with the increased size that there will be a little more lag and a little better top end. I am torn between the two and am curious if you all have any input on it.

I prefer street-ability to drag-ability....response is important as usual...but in the end I am shooting for 430 to the wheels at 16-17psi and 400 to the wheels at 15psi.

Does anyone have dyno sheets for either of these two turbos putting down numbers like that?

Any input is appreciated.


Jason

 

I've seen 62-1 dyno sheets @ 17psi and approx 430rw. If you check out wargasms site (which you have) you'll notice the highest T66 on the site is Steve Kan's red car back when it was running a T66 and he made approx 430rw @ 17psi. The other T66's on the site are making 400rw @ 16psi. Here is the link to the T66 dyno sheets http://www.catenet.net/graph.php?car...1&SUBMIT=GRAPH

I personally think you wont get a benfit from a T66 over a 62-1 untill you get up to around 22psi of boost and higher.

Hope that helps a little.

 

I am getting very close to regretting not staying with my m2 twins. I guess I will see how it pans out this next couple weeks.

I will have them put together a different t62-1 and will go from there.

I have checked the dyno sheets against my old m2 twins and your old setup spo...and the t66 is just too laggy for my taste.

thanks for the info.

back to the drawing board.


jason

 

Jason,

I have a T66. At 16 psi I made 410 rwhp. I'm going back to the dyno hopefully this weekend to tune for 20 psi, so if you can wait, you'll have at least one more comparison.

Alan

 

The new site is at http://dyno.zeroglabs.com/dyno.php

Just an FYI... I will be shutting down the catenet.net site (not my site after all)

 

I have a 62-1 and put down 410 rwhp at 15psi. Chris at RP tuned it out. That was with 2k miles on it. The engine is running better now and i'm taking it back for a re-tune this week. That was on racing gas, not pump gas. I have a nice street port, nothing huge but enough to sound mean at idle and really loud at full throttle. Don Marvel did the engine. I have a dyno sheet somewhere I will post soon as I find it.

BTW: this is on a 13B in an 88TII. Not the 3rd gen engine.

 

A GT35R will make the power you are looking for at the boost that you want to run.

 

can you guys post your dyno sheets in here after you tune this weekend? I will host them if you like. email me at jmanley@massiveblack.com if you want me to do so.

I am going to stay with the t62-1 ...I just refuse to own one that sounds like a choo choo train and doesnt hold boost past 17psi.


J

 

And which one is that exactly?

 

A T66 .81 Q trim will do what you want, but definitely laggier than a 62-1. Look at Chris Roths Graphs, that is a .84 BB 67mm turbo(TO4R) He made the power you want at the boost you said. The key to his set-up was a great manifold, and an awesome B turbo with the new Garrett GTQ wheel(new meaning ~2 years old). Carl

 

the t62-1 that just went back to the manufacturer.

 

I had a t66 and just switched to a 62-1
bryan at bnr told me it would be better for what I want which is fast spool and good amount of power for the street. he said its the best turbo for that
then steve kan told me I should have never gotten rid of the t66 and its better than the 62-1 lol

any way I cant really help you make a choice as I am getting the same exact boost responce from this turbo that I did with the t66
its either some kind of boost control problem like wastegate or boost controller or the fact that the t66 was a .70 exhaust housing and the 62-1 is a 1.00

in my opinion 10psi at 4000rpms is not acceptable. Mine was able to hold 17psi no problem and was holding 22psi till we let off. On stock engine the t66 made 380rw @16psi. The 62-1 looks like it was going to make 410rw@17psi but its a new streetported engine and Im not sure how much my fuel pressure drop is impacting the power output because of the weird tuning needed to compensate.

good luck im interested too so I can solve my own issue

Yanni

 

Yea Yanni, we need to figure out whats wrong with your car. You have some issues, thats for sure.

 

Yes, yes we do need to figure it out. I don't understand why it's not going perfect. You have to see my engine bay to believe it. I spent SOOO long on everything theres not an extra wire, everythings taped off, zip ties 2 hose clamps on everything. Huge fuel system and best wg and boost control you can get and I get no fuel pressure and late spool lol

Haven't been able to fix that biatch cause I'm busy with school and other biatches are bothering me as well but I have 4 days in a row to get it done now!!! New regulator is on its way as well

 

The runs are from lowest to highest.

11 psi (spring)
13 psi
16 psi

This was done on a Dynojet 248 chassis dyno on July 31, 2004

 

If you need help posting the sheet, you can send it to me via IM (see my profile).

Brian

 

BTW: fuel cutoff is set at 8400 rpm's and I have stayed in the gas till I hit the fuel cutoff and it kept pulling till then. He let off the gas on the dyno run for safety's sake and since it was the 3rd enging in a row I had blown. He wanted to see me drive it home. This engine is holding together very well. It has become faster since that dyno run. Put about 2k more miles on it since then.

 

What happened to the other two motors? Did Rotary Performance build them?

 

Do you know what A/R and wheel you have in that bad boy?

 

turbonetics 62-1 Divided P trim think it's a 1.00 turbine.

 

First engine I was breaking it in and getting on a on ramp and gassed it a bit too much I guess, detonation and cracked the rear rotor housing. It was replaced with a series 5 rear housing (thicker to solve that issue)


Second engine, broken in and tuned in was leaving Dallas with it to head home and had, after the tuning, installed a silencer in the N1 can (it basically took it from a 3" to a 1.5" outlet and caused serious backpressure so when I gassed it the backpressure cause it to detonate and I cracked the front rotor housing. The pressure was enough to bend the silencer out of the end of the N1 can, it was bolted in. Replaced the front housing with a series 5 housing, again it's thicker and also installed a J&S knock sensor.

Don Marvel did the engine. I would use him again. He made a port matched exhaust housing and did a great porting job. He did not charge for the first rebuild and only charged me the cost of parts on the second rebuild since it was me who decided to stick in the silencer after the tuning was done the second time.

 

how much power were you putting down with the m2 twins?

 

Sorry to be a nag, but I'm doing this for my dyno page...

Are you sure it's a P trim or do you only think it probably is?

Thanks,
Brian

 

Yeah I know it is a P trim.

 

Added your car to my dyno site at http://dyno.zeroglabs.com/dyno.php

B