Yes, but not really sure how to check it internally other than to disassemble and inspect.

There is this cautionary note though about it not being kept seated and thus opening to leakage if boost pressure isn’t being applied properly to it:

 

right now it's got an aftermarket one. I could always place the brand new stock one back on

 

Might simply need a bigger hose to the CRV and off a larger nipple then?

Can always buy/run the CRV eliminator too if you suspect it.

 

think I'm using a 7mm silicone hose to the side of the UIM.
waiting for my pressure tester to arrive to recheck that then I will remove ic pipes and check for anything funny inside.

 

While we're on the discussion of checking for leaks, is the wastegate properly adjusted? Perhaps the wastegate isn't fully closed, resulting in the turbo overspinning to achieve target boost levels?

 

i remeber adjusting it according to how turbosmart weote in instructions. did it before i put turbo on so had plenty of room

 

Really interested to see where this goes.

Is the Dyno not calibrated correctly, or is it on the verge of failing? Are tires slipping from improper strapping? These are highly unlikely but there's a chance for everything. Does the butt dyno say its 330whp or 400whp?

What spark plugs are you running? I've been tuning my recently installed 8374 iwg street port IGN-1A direct fire setup, and I have ignition break up in the 12-15 psi range, starting around 3000rpm. Car just starts puttering and I think it may be because of the BUR9EQP plugs. Also running 93 premium fuel with 1.5-2oz premix/gallon and no AI.

Are you boost creeping because I am creeping to 18 psi on a 15lb spring, with vacuum hose connected directly to wastegate.

Eric

 

Eric, I doubt it's the plugs. You'll need to robustly ground your setup---- twice as much grounding as you think you'll need. Talking daisy chaining from the ignition harness to the block to the battery to the chassis and back again . I ran a 4 gauge ground from the ignition harness directly to the battery along with a zero gauge from the block to the battery. This cleared up almost all of my IGN-1A ignition issues, using dielectric grease on my plug boots took care of the last bit. Haven't had an issue since up to 20 psi, the setup is amazing when it's installed and grounded properly.

 

ya my harness was made by irp and it has two extra grounds to ground to perspective rotor housing. i also cleaned and added extra grounds as well!!

ya idk maybe dyno isn't calibrated. it's very weird. I do remember possibly feeling a tad break up at higher rpms. but not sure how bad. I'm waiting for the owner of dyno to send me the dyno runs unsmoothed
as far as holding boost I'm using the IRP kit and it held wastegate pressure fine. im using the turbosmart 2 port actuator with 14 psi spring

here is a video of a run my buddy took. I think it was when we started adding the meth

 

was there a shop fan pointing toward your ic during the dyno session?

what were your iat(s) from each run?

ask the dyno operator to send you the drf (dyno run) files, then download WinPep and you can examine the runs more closely using a std or SAE correction factor or none at all

 

will do thank you. in logs I saw 120 pre meth. but after the pulls I could touch the uim and it was def SUPER COOL to the touch. so def less then 120 going in chambers.
yea we had 2 fans and a mini one for oil cooler

 

Irrespective of the power numbers, why not lean it out a little while meth is activated?

 

On a low reading dyno at 14 psi you would expect to see 360- 375 whp. Double check the plumbing of the wastegate and boost controller. Just a thought.

 

 

smoothing zero

 

Is this the same dyno that you tuned your old 2020 set-up on that made 350rwhp @14psi on billet 62.5mm compressor turbo w/ 0.96AR exhaust and 44mm external WG on HKS cast manifold?

Cause yeah, I would expect the same size IWG turbo (EFR 8374) to make 20-25rwhp less at that boost just like a recirculated external WG has been shown to...

Maybe this dyno reads low and you need 1/4mile trap speeds to let you know power is where it should be.

 

direct comparison, issue seems to mostly manifest itself from 5500 rpm and up



no mention of AI in the thread, might be worth looking at or considering it having too much quench per a few other comments.

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...-5psi-1106777/
.

 

there's your problem. notice breakup as torque rises. ignition of some sort. too wide plug gap, too hot plugs... were you running 9s? run the expensive (long lasting) iridium NGKs... 10 heat range all four. see my website (Tuning Ignition) for part numbers... look at the ground strap for heat indication. and no AI??? (that's not your misfire problem... it will be your engine problem at a later date.
you are looking for close to 100 hp.

 

yea I am running ai. 50/50 mix
and yes that dyno was on stock 9 plugs all around. should I look at plugs or possibly ignition coil grounding? brand new haltech coils and wires

 

Go through the coil set-up fields in software and make sure they are what people recommend for those coils.

Is it known those coils can fire in low 10s AFRs with boost?

And with aux injection?

Some ignition systems can and some ignition systems require you to lean AFRs out to fire.

My experience with a really hot ignition on my 13B is the turbo rotary doesnt really care about AFRs for power (10s or richer was same power as leaner) its a weak ignition that might need leaner AFRs to ignite mixture.

 

"I am running ai. 50/50 mix" good for you.

look at the ground straps on your plugs. they should be burnt clean for 50% of the length. if they are running too hot they will be burnt clean for more than 50%. either way they should all be 10s.

if your coils are they IGN-1A type they will easily fire 9.0 AFR with your turbo with any type of AI... unless something is amiss.

 

They are badge swapped IGN01As like everyone else is selling, definitely not the weak link at that power level. Gapped colder iridium plugs will probably help a lot.

 

gapped to .026"?

 

suggest .023 but .026 will probably work

 

I think we usually call it 0.5 to 0.6mm in metric.