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At some point I probably will but it's not real high on the priority list right now. The only place I trust to do it and not screw it up is a ways away and I'm not trying to guinea pig the 55k mile chassis on my first pass at doing them.
in prep for my 2013 Texas Mile i spent a ridiculous number or hours/days (winter in Wisconsin) attempting to find the right tire/wheel combo. i wanted a minimum of 10 inches wheel width in the rear and an inch or so less in the front. i picked Enkei's NTO+3M. fronts are 9.5 w a 40 offset and rears are 10.5 with a 30 offset. my street tires are shaved Sumitomo HTR Z IIIs. 265/35 18 front and 295/30/18 rear. i had previously rolled my front and rear fender lips but the rears at 25 inch ride height and close to zero camber were pretty close.
the deal breaker was the tire sizing for the Texas Mile. Michelin Pilot Sport Cup... the rears being 11.9 tread width, 12.2 section width. i needed about 5/8 of an inch so i added Shine Auto lips at the rear. i am very happy that you can barely notice them as i love the lines of the FD and didn't want it to look like a Jeep. you do have a bit better rear offset so that should help... 10 mm, almost half an inch.
here are a few pics of my car with the Sumitomos... front ride height is 25 inches rear is 25.5.
if you are trying to hook up your power rear camber setting will be key. the FD suspension is designed for road racing and as such it has a lot of negative camber gain on bump. as the wheels go up into the fender wells negative camber increases a bunch. this is to compensate for body roll in a turn. since you are going straight and your rear is going down as the car bites your wheels are going up into the fenders... and you are losing a great deal of the width of your rear tires. if you start out at anything but zero static rear camber you are losing effective grip.
i moved to Hiawassee, Ga last August so am only 100 miles from you. i am looking for some straight level roads but there aren't any nearby. corners are of course fun, i am doing the DGRR in May... but will be looking for a dyno to do some tuning. was at MTI Racing in Dawsonville Wednesday.
Man. What a difference. That combo looks perfect Skeese. Rear fenders may need a role depending on what camber does on a full on squat launch. It's hard to tell from a pic but I did zoom in and at it looks super close.
I plan on running the RP links on my car(if they can be used with a ford 8.8- not sure if the diff bushings will work).
These are supposed to keep the rear tires from cambering in at the top when launching, keeping the total footprint of the tires planted, reducing wheelhop.
"supposed to keep the rear tires from cambering in at the top when launching"
the two links pictured do not change negative camber gain on bump. they do reduce toe in on braking and accel. the diff bushings do reduce wheelhop. i am 100% on board with both. the only way to reduce camber gain is to stiffen the shocks, increase spring rate or change the A arm pickup points...all 3 of these options have significant drawbacks.
i moved to Hiawassee, Ga last August so am only 100 miles from you. i am looking for some straight level roads but there aren't any nearby. corners are of course fun, i am doing the DGRR in May... but will be looking for a dyno to do some tuning. was at MTI Racing in Dawsonville Wednesday.
good luck and really nice build.
Hey Howard! Always good to hear from you on here!
I know all about Hiawassee as I grew up just across unicoi mountain in Cleveland and most of my extended family still lives over in Hiawassee and I'm regularly on lake Chatuge during the summer!
There definitely aren't any long straight roads up that way, so that will be a challenge. If you're looking for a dyno and don't mind the drive, countersteer LLC here in Canton has a dyno jet and will pretty much just had you the reins once you get strapped on. If you end up contacting them or on the dyno in GA anywhere I'd love the opportunity to come meet you in person, see the car and help out any way that I could.
So...a couple of updates. I went to a quick drive Friday afternoon after work, and when I pulled back into the driveway and got out to open the garage door I notice smoke from under the hood. I quickly opened the hood and found there to be a ROLLING gas fire coming out from under the UIM which I doused with the hose. I'd say most likely it was only burning for about 30 seconds or so BUT that was enough to scorch some of the injector harnessing, the fuel pressure harness wire and the boost controller wires. I was pretty put out by the whole event so I let it cool off and put it in the garage to deal with another day.
Spoiler
After monsterbox
That afternoon I was talking with @Monsterbox about the fire and like the true rotor soldier he is jumped in the car and drove 2.5 hours over from Birmingham to help clean it up Saturday morning. Turns out the root of the fire condition was the flare on the fuel hardline coming out of the primary rail had sheared off and essenstially left the return side of the rail wide open to fire hydrant gas into the bay. When on the phone he had said something about fixing it and making pulls later this weekend, which at the time seemed laughable to me....but after about 3-4 hours of rewiring, changing fuses and fixing the fuel line on Saturday morning we had it up and running and went on to do some driving tune checkouts to verify everything was still working as it should with the rewire.
The fuel pressure sensor itself is shot from having been right in the middle of the flames and cooked, so we made a couple updates in the tune Sunday morning to manually put the reading where it needed to be for 30 PSI so the correct flow rate in the injector settings would be referenced then we headed out to make some pulls. Riding out to the highway the car ripped cleanly through 1st, 2nd and 3rd at 25 PSI without issue, so when we got to the freeway I flipped it up to the 30-31 PSI setting (should be ~720hp based on previous dyno session) and gave it all the sauce across a 3rd gear pull. I'll have to look at the logs to tell exactly where, but somewhere around 7500-8000 rpms it hit what felt like a HARD cut while I was at WOT. David checked the laptop and found no errors or ECU engine protection flags which seemed really weird given the cut, but it became apparent when I down shifted on the freeway offramp and found that what was supposed to be 3rd was a big gaping hole that wouldn't engage. SO the HARD cut had been third taking a **** from the power it was putting down to the R888Rs that weren't letting go.
David got alot of legit video from the whole weekend worth of rotary work and was actually videoing in the car when 3rd let go so I'll share the video here when the video goes up. I really don't care about having trashed the transmission as I knew it was only a matter of time, but having been able to salvage the wiring was a huge relief. I've got a friend dropping of a spare replacement transmission tomorrow that I'll toss in later this week and run until I figure out what I'm going to do for a long term transmission solution. In the meantime I'm going to replace and clean up all the wiring that was charred in the fire and probably roll the rear fenders as the 295s were rubbing in the rear when the car would load up and squat in boost.
HUGE thanks to Mosterbox for coming through with the extra hands and motivation to get it done this weekend. It no **** was the difference in what would have otherwise been a shitty fail that I messed with later into a blast of a weekend.
Sorry to hear that, though I'd suggest that having a recipe that can induce the dreaded casement flex/3rd gear strip on 'street' tires should be considered a badge of honor.
I pulled the trans over this last week and finally got it out last night to open it up and see the damage...which confirmed that 3rd gear was totally f*cked.
I've got a replacement factory trans ready to go in now, replacement connectors/wires/shielding from lugwig to fix the harness and replacement sensors for those that were toasted in the fire so I'll have it all back together and sorted by the end of this next weekend. I also bought a fender roller so I'm planning to watch a bunch of youtube on how to actually do that this week and then try my hand at it this weekend.
I've rolled my own fenders and it was my first time doing it. A friend of mine who's done a few had given me some advice. Basically small increments and keep the paint warm.
Its just regular ole summit racing aluminum fuel tube, sleeves and tube nuts. I would probably run a SS hardline if it were under the car, but in the engine bay I think workability takes precident as it was a beast of a job getting them all right with just the aluminum.
Your fuel lines can vibrate at certain RPM. In this picture of the reed is vibrating at 3050 RPM. For us that would be cruise and if the line was vibrating at that frequency it would fail quickly. It might be possible to actually observe the lines on the dyno.
On aircraft adel clamps are installed at specific spots to dampen the vibrations.
Perfect alignment on the lines is also critical. The nuts should spin on with no interference. And of course stainless lines are a lot stronger.
Barry
Still hard for me to believe that new OE vehicles get away with using Nylon.
Almost lost my RX8 when the exhaust lit off some dry grass growing up through a concrete crack, which then lit off some underbody coating on the LH rear corner where the fuel tank/pump area is located directly above (where my vision was blocked by the LH rear wheel). Which the Nylon flex line between the in-tank fuel pump and the hardline to the engine bay got hot enough by the heat emanating up into there, that the residual pressure burst through the softened line and dumped E50 fuel directly onto the fire below, just as I saw the resulting fireball flash off and out from underneath the car.
It was only by the grace of God that I happened to have a fire extinguisher with me and only 10 feet away that then thankfully put out the fire. I honestly thought it was going to be a total loss just before managing to put it out.
Very sobering, adrenaline rush experience for sure 😳. I can see the aluminum hardline between two fixed points being a potential issue, the straightjacket in a rubber room response coupled with the noobish inability to do a simple thread word search is perhaps distracting from the subject some. 🤔
Being in the stainless fabrication industry, it probably could be argued the same can eventually happen with SS hard lines since it also is not the most resistant to hold up against repeated stress cycling. It would mostly come down to wall thickness and severity of the stress cycling. Loops, bends, and length between fixed points help, but then detract from the clean line look.
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that is a fast and furious mistake right there then toreto car nearly burned to ground once you would think a engineer would know that alloy work harden when you bend and use it and in vibration it is the worst thing to use this has darwin award written all over so sad man maybe should learn from last near disaster and fix it and build it right way rather than easy way just sayin
Learn to type proper English before you throw in your expertise.
Go back to playing Forza *** clown.
your feathers may be more refined, but perhaps both of you should go flock yourselves and fly north for the summer
making me wish a certain somebody would post up some dyno results rather than the “sneaking into BSfest” bs, but I suppose youboobers gotta boob it up for all their gushing boober fans.
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if wot see in pics looks like alloy hard fuel lines then next stage will be wako texas david coresh style fire and death cuz all that **** will crack and leak fuel everywhere
Originally Posted by maxamillion
that is a fast and furious mistake right there then toreto car nearly burned to ground once you would think a engineer would know that alloy work harden when you bend and use it and in vibration it is the worst thing to use this has darwin award written all over so sad man maybe should learn from last near disaster and fix it and build it right way rather than easy way just sayin
Originally Posted by maxamillion
if you were to buy a hot water balloon and not fly it then what is the point knowledge like this is not for free if you want this then you have to earn it the powa is in your hands to do what you wish but just like coresh you and your followers will burn to the ground if you use alloy on hard lines on engine this is such a wookie mistake spaceX all over
How about you go build your own 800hp FD and get back to us when you've actually accomplished that. I took the car down to the rolling frame and changed EVERYTHING across the whole setup less the engine keg itself. It took 3 years to get together, but there was ZERO issue after first fire as everything was put together correctly. I then street tuned the car to 30 PSI and ran it like that on the street for a month without issue. Went to the dyno, did 711hp @ 30 PSI on the first pull on the straight-off-the-street tune and proceeded to make another 10 700hp pulls ranging from 30-38 PSI back to back without having to touch anything on the car other than the laptop. There isn't a goddamn thing wrong with the car or the setup.
There is nothing wrong with the use of aluminum fuel lines. Stainless steel could be an improvement but it is non-necessary. I ended up adding a rubber damper pad to the back of the regulator to pad it and dampen the vibration that was being imparted onto the tube line, however when I pulled the line of it was CLEAR that it wasn't vibration that caused it to shear or back off but rather the FLARE on the end had gotten too deep into the tool and stretched the material much thinner than it should have been. So....what the **** ever man.
Best of luck trolling, but I suggest you take it elsewhere.
In other news, the car has been sold and is off to new life with a new owner who is a record holding seasoned drag racer....so its in a good place. It may have moved on, but the world hasn't seen the end of the houston red rocket.
Max/spammer. Show us your research on aluminum fuel lines.
Do you know better than actual professionals?
From Holley (who actually know what they are talking about)
"Aluminum tubing, is another popular choice that you'll see. One of the greatest pros to using aluminum is that it's easy to bend! So easy that you can bend it by hand, but it can also be difficult to get it perfectly straight, especially when purchased in rolls. Aluminum is easy to cut and flare and you can even polish it to a high sheen. Typically only the 37deg single flare method is used with aluminum since it's such a soft material and is difficult to get quality flares when attempting 45 deg double flares. Aluminum tubing can be used for everything from fuel, transmission, and oil supply lines, even vacuum and coolant lines. Aluminum tubing should never be used for pressurized brake lines"
Even including a source, something you have never done.
