Leeroy_25

I have the single turbo conversion diagram with vac lines and solenoids and also have read some posts on doing this. There seem to be a few different opinions on some things!?
Firstly the (A) Orange solenoid is show as a keeper and some people say keep it to run to the stock FPR. Others say bin it? Obviously I will be running an aftermarket FPR so can I bin this and just run a vac line from the UIM to the stock FPR? If I have to keep it I presume I run a vac line from the UIM to the solenoid? Also f keeping it do I need to put the solenoid frame work back in to mount it or is it safe wanging about in the breeze!? I see I need some of the frame work as it has the fixing point for the coil pack cage.

Next how important are the vent on the oil cap and from the redundant oil drain which I was planning to just blank. The stock setup does not have a breather on the oil cap?
Lastly there are some vac lines shown on the turbo side of the throttle body for the boost solenoid, wastegate and fuel injector atomizer.. do I need to add some nipples into my hard piping somewhere before the throttle body to ensure I get correct pressure readings/effects. I don't recall ever seeing any lines like this on other conversions I have seen?!

Thank you
Lee

GreatShamanGT

iTrader: (9)

You don't need the solenoid. Just take the nipple that's a vacuum for the orange solenoid and use it for your FPR.

I just run the lines to the nipples on the UIM right before the throttle body. You can just cap the Atomization line.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Remove the solenoid. I recommend keeping the atomization line it seems to help the idle. You'll need a nipple somewhere before the throttle body. The elbow or intercooler piping works. You need to vent the oil filler but it doesn't need to see vacuum. The oil metering nozzles should have filtered air.

Leeroy_25

Thanks for the info guys.. Good help..

What were you saying about lag shaman??

Cheers
Lee

GreatShamanGT

iTrader: (9)

oh, my computer generated a lot of latency and it caused me to double post, but good luck in the future =D

Leeroy_25

So guy's what is with the venting of the oil cap?? it's not vented as stock How come it needs venting for the single conversion? I presume this means I will need a catch can?
Also does the stock FPR stay in place with vac line to it even if you are running an aftermarket FPR? Or do I need to do something about that?

Cheers
Lee

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Just remove the stock fpr and fuel pulsation dampener also. The stock oil filler neck is vented! One vent goes to a pcv right after the throttle body and the other goes to the inlet of the primary turbo. This is to put the crankcase under vacuum to suck out any blow by. If you don't vent it your oil pan will build up pressure. Not a good thing. You don't need a catch can but it's cleaner to have one. Unless you run it like the stock setup which puts any blow by back into the combustion chamber to be burned. If you road course the car an oil catch can is pretty much needed.

Leeroy_25

Ohh! What is the fuel pulsation dampner! That's a new one! I'll have a search. Also if you take the stock FPR off can you get a fitting to bolt on in place of it easy enough?
Thank you

I am stuck on the oil filler .. I had alook o my car toda and noticed a couple of pipes at the to of the filler neck. If these are there already I don't understand why I need to add extra? Can I not just connect these back up as they are with a vac line to the singlet turbo? Or even just have the line to the PCV (what ever that is?! - another search needed) and leave the other one to vent to air or a catch can?
Lee

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

You don't need to add more just don't cap them

Leeroy_25

Ahh!! Okay! That's fine then.. all makes sense!
I google fuel pulsation dampner and found something a bit worrying.. I gather it's the part bolted to the end of the primary rail? I hear they fail and lead to engine fires? I have smelt petrol for a while when driving hard so I wonder if that is the problem? Someone asked me about a fuel smell before but never mentioned it could be something so serious. I am also not sure my LIM gasket is the newer type so I guess it could be abit of that too.. How do I go about removing the dampner then? Is there a fitting to replace it? or just saw it off and join the rubber on the remaining stub? The FPR is then connected to the Secondary rail.. I think I figure how that all works now. The FPR is a fuel return/bypasss valve essentially? Is that right? Letting fuel pass back around the system. Can they work by letting a certina pressure into the system. so if you blanked of the secondary rail completely and put the FPR in place of the pulse dampner would it regulate correctly?

Anyway I am sure I can make a new fitting up from something or maybe tap a thread into the end of the fuel rails and run a banjo bolt like the other end of the secondary rail.

Cheers
Lee

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

No it will not regulate correctly in front of the system. The first injector would see the most pressure and the last in line will see reduced pressure. Having it last keeps the pressure in the rails even. The easiest way to delete the fpd is to remove it (two screws) then tap the remaining hole and screw in a 3/8 or 5/16 brass hose barb fitting. The ID is already the right size to be tapped, just don't remember off the top of my head what was the right tap size but once you have it off i'm sure you can figure that out. Aftermarket fpr's have the fpd built in. When the injectors fire, they create pulses with the fuel that go back, the fpd is supposed to absorb these pulses and protect everything from any damage while helping the overall performance of the injectors. Many have deleted them with no problems, and it beats having your car burn to the ground. Whether the pressure pulses are an issue is up to you to decide for yourself. I think it would be hard to prove one way or the other.

R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

not all oem filler necks are vented

jdm models do not have the pcv valve

Leeroy_25

Thanks again Dudemaan.

I'll look at the option of tapping a thread a running a banjo fitting.. Probably the safest.. Not sure if it will be easier for me to get a metric fititng here but either way I can sort that..
Either that or I salvage the flanges and weld on new pipe stubs..

Thanks for your help.

Lee

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Since the fpd is already connected with a hose barb fitting its much easier to just remove it, tap it out and use a hose barb from home depot or something. Screw it in there hook it up the same as stock and be done with it. I have a full aftermarket setup and all my connections are with brass hose barbs i'm even running higher base pressure. Use the yellow teflon tape that's safe for use with gas, it can also be found at any hardware store.

Leeroy_25

Dudeman can you post a link of the fitting you are on about?? Sounds like we are talking slightly different things.. I was just at a DIY store (as we call it) today getting 1/2" brass pipe fittings to use on my other engine build project.. Damned if I am paying £18 (25 bucks for an earl fitting when a $3 fitting will work just fine!) who cares if it's anodised pretty .. it's going under the bonnet!

Thank you
Lee

Leeroy_25

By the way.. The hose is about 13mm (1/2") diameter. So I will need to check what that equates to in thread tapping sizes.. I guess 5/16 US so not sure what I can get over there for that!?

Cheers
Lee

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/malpiptap.html

Leeroy_25

Thanks for that. We were talking different type fittings but I guess you could be talking about that type.. Will see what taps I have available and what sizes I can get these in.
Cheers
Lee