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So, I'm in the home stretch of a single turbo build and the wiring is holding me back from starting the car.
a bit of background on the FD
It started life as a 93 touring, I bought the car in 2012 and within 6 months the water seals started to go and as I started to tear down the engine I noticed how tired the turbos were so I fell into the money pit as most do.
It now has:
freshly rebuilt engine
all emissions equipment deleted
power steering removed
abs removed
omp deleted
gt35r with a custom manifold
tial wastegates
custom v-mount
stock fans
power fc running it all
rywire harness
Initially I was having trouble with the rywire harness. Like a dummy I ordered the harness with the omp wiring still intact. When i first went to start the car I was getting no power to the ecu, and due to the pins being wiggled loose in the ecu plug, a ground was shorting and causing the fans to run whenever power was in the circuit. After figuring out I needed to ground the omp I was able to get the power fc to turn on but the wiring was still dodgy so I sent it off to rywire to be repaired.
Today I got the harness installed and everything buttoned up, but somewhere along the line I must have screwed up because i'm no longer getting mileage showing on the odometer.
The most strange part that I noticed is that when I push the brake pedal the fans turn on, when i release the brakes the fans turn off. Obviously i'm having some very strange wiring malfunctions and i'm pretty lost at this point.
Has anyone ever experienced this sort of issue before? any input would be greatly appreciated.
In the meantime ill be tracing wiring.
I'm not sure what it's like in the power fc but it could potentially be if you have a digital input activated (brakes) it will activate a digital output (fans).. I'm not sure if it allows you to change logic but in my Adaptronic ecu you can
Tell us about any modifications done to any wiring by you or any other previous owner.
These problems are almost always caused by something a previous owner might have done. Security systems are especially notorious offenders. Wires get tapped into, pins get pulled out, solder joints fail. Why were pins loose on the ECU connector, causing the short?
Harnesses are plug and play affairs. You sent him back your harness right? Tell him to send you one with the correct specification (no OMP). Then plug the new one in according to instructions. Ground the ground wire(s). Plug the plugs in. Don't cut or tap into ANYTHING, and don't touch harness pins. If you absolutely most do so, get an extension harness. Boomslang Fabrication | ECU Wire Harness Extensions
Undo as much "custom wiring" "special wire tucks" and "simplification" as possible.
man I feel your frustration, hope you can figure out the issue.... I also have a rywire harness with omp that is not plugged in, what wires are you all referring too? I've been running my car with out any issues and I don't recall modifying any wires from the OMP connector...
man I feel your frustration, hope you can figure out the issue.... I also have a rywire harness with omp that is not plugged in, what wires are you all referring too? I've been running my car with out any issues and I don't recall modifying any wires from the OMP connector...
That's how I thought it was supposed to work! The power fc shouldn't care if the OMP is disconnected. Which wiring are you asking about? The wire I from the OMP?
Little bit of an update on this.
Since the wiring harness was reinstalled. The crazy fans turn on with the brake pedal situation hasn't happened again. I have no idea what that was about. As for wiring that has been modified in the car. All of the airbag wiring has been removed from the car, the stereo wiring has been removed. The fuel pump resistor is deleted, but that's not an issue as I'm getting power to the fuel pump. I just figured out that the fuel pump relay is bad and I'm fairly sure the circuit opening is bad too. By jumpering the fuel pump relay (the one in the most forward relay box) I got the fuel pump to run. Still not firing, but one step closer.
Replaced my fuel relay and now i'm getting fuel from the pump. I tested my coil packs and they are all within tolerance. I'm getting the constant 12V to the coil packs and igniter. I don't the sst to fully test the igniter, but from what I got on the forums its really unusual that your igniter will go bad. Is there any way of testing to see if the igniter is receiving its charge signal from the issue short of using a frequency meter? this thread gave some pretty good information about the ignition system https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...iagram-964089/.
I'm guessing that my ECU isn't sending
the signal at all, but why? The sensor check on the Commander shows these sensors/switches illuminated:
HWL - Exhaust Temp Warning
NTR - Neutral switch
APR - Air pump Relay
CLT - Clutch switch
CCN- Charge control
ELD - Electrical Load Switch
Am I missing anything that would cause the car to not run? I don't think the exhaust temp warning would cause a no start would it?
The 4 voltage reading that are barred out are showing no connection as in the sensor being removed or bad. That is like an error code.
VTA1 is important as it is the low range for the TPS. Since VTA2 sows normal almost 5 volts means the throttle must be fully opened up.
Then we have the air temp and water temp sensors shown bad. Both of these are needed for idle and running.
thanks for you input, I actually got the car to start the other day. I replaced the fuel pump relay and removed that ground wire that I had ignorantly installed to the omp then it reluctantly came to life. These are the sensor readings as of now. Is that a little more healthy?
I got it going actually!
So we started out not starting at all. So I went through all my wiring, checked the coils, wiring etc and found that my ecu connector on the rywire harness was getting a bad connection. I sent that back to rywire which they corrected free of charge.
Next I discovered that my circuit relay was bad. I switched it out and the the fuel started flowing, at that point I could get the car to start, but it would die within a few seconds and be completely flooded. So I took out the old kg 1680 injectors, installed 1700 Injector dynamics, and had the primaries cleaned at witch hunter performance.
At that point the car would start and would stay running if I constantly moved the throttle. Steady throttle caused it to bog. So I got my TPS in spec, which seemed to help just a little bit. All of that then led me to the map sensor. I had a 3 bar map sensor installed which I then reverted back to the original. And walla the car fired right up and after a few smoked minutes idled right at 720. Ill post up a video of it in a minute.
So a bunch of this was caused by crossing the polarity on the battery. This should seem obvious, but be very careful when moving the battery around. I was testing gauges and had the battery sitting in the engine bay loose, I think I nudged it and boom within one spark I had fried the ecu fuse, map sensor both engine relays and a power FC. All of which could have been avoided. Hopefully this helps someone that may be trying to figure out a electrical issues after a short.
05-28-16, 05:00 PM
