RotarySB

I think my curiousity has finally got the best of me. And YES, I know, you're all probably thinking "great! another can I daily drive an FD thread." Well, I searched and couldn't come up with anything helpful. I don't have an FD YET, however, I have been looking and I've been considering ones that have gone single turbo. So basically what I wanted to know is:

Any info on the questions above or just in someway related to them will be greatly appreciated. Also, even if you don't daily drive a single turbo FD, feel free to give your opinion and contribute info. Like I said before, ANY information will be greatly appreciated.

Also, I believe starting this fall I am only going to be driving anywhere from 3,000-5,000 miles a year(just a rough estimate, could be more, could be less).

pwwatkins

I daily drive mine other than in the winter. Biggest pro is how fun it is to go wot, biggest con is how expensive it is to go single. I've put about 10000 miles on with a few little hickups, but when you change everything in your whole engine bay within a year, hickups are to be expected. Maintenance is no different, check oil every once in a while and put gas in... I had a pretty reliable car when it was stock, but that hasn't changed with going single. My car is reliable enough that I could hop in it and drive 15 hours without worrying about anything. It's all about the tuning and picking your mods to suit what you want out of the car. If you get a loud exhaust and 6 puck clutch, it can become a chore to drive. Research, then pick what is best for you.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

I can not directly answer that as mine was heavy modded non-seq before going GT35R. But I drove it dayly to work: stock in 1992, slowly modified until heavy modified non-seq in 1999, and modded non-seq till spring 2003. I quit using it as a dayly then due to no longer having covered parking at work (HOUSTON gets hot). Went GT35R with a 1.06 AR turbine. I have driven it on long trips, in stop and go driving, in cold and hot weather. Thus I am qualified to answer on my great experinece with these cars.

Q1: What single turbo setup do you have? Pros and Cons? Any better recommendations?
A1: A-Spec GT35R 1.06 T3 short manifold kit. Full spool by 3600rpm, great power and driveability on stock or small ports. You should go to a smaller turbine AR if you want low end power like stock twins if you are not a gear banger.
No better as far as I am concern.

Q2: How many miles have you put on the car since you went single turbo? And how long did it take you to put on those miles?
A2: Three years and over 8000 miles. I did not record mileage at the time of the turbo change. Time question is irrevalent! Has been on several trips of about 800-900 miles round trip.

Q3: How is the maintenance, aside from the maintenance of a stock FD?
A3: Initially had some problems with the exhaust manifold gaskets going bad
due to the manifold not having true flat surfaces. Resurfacing solved that problem.
Otherwise same as stock.

Q4: If driven responsibly, can the car actually be more reliable than a stock FD since there are less things that can go wrong?
A4: with proper mods for cooling, fuel delivery, boost control, etc as what one should do for properly safe car, it is better than stock.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

^^ One of the best people out there to probably answer this question, as he has run the same setup and done so for years, consistently.

I have customers running 5+yrs and 30k miles on some of our first setups. WHen done right and with a little patience, you will be a happy owner. It's the patience part that usually kills people with these cars when modding them.



Another thread to others answers on the questions.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...bo+reliability

and some more people as well

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...o+daily+driver

Quick search of.....

single turbo reliability
single turbo daily driver

turned both those up.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

One thing I've learned......your turbo coolant feed and return lines, as well as the passenger side heater hoses, had better be top quality hose and have some serious heat sleeving on them.

My setup has full exhaust ceramic coating and a heat blanket (thus relatively low underhood temps) and all the hoses I mentioned were shot after 1 yr/4k miles, this *with* some 700 degree (inadequate) heat sleeving on them.

When I went to swap out all the hoses, they were in sad shape, esp the turbo feed and return. The were fused onto the barbs/nipples, and literally ripped when I pulled on them. Keep in mind I had to really yank on them to get the ripping to take place. The heater hoses were literally oozing coolant around the circumference of the ends, and sucking air back into my system.

I ended up using some very stout 3/8th fuel injection line, along with thermo-tec 5/8 to 1 inch size 2000 degree sleeving. It's large enough diameter that you can slip it over the clamps so that the entire hose is protected.

For the heater hoses I used a hightemp reinforced blue (inner orange) silicone hose with the same heat sleeving.

If anybody wants to know exactly what I used, PM me and I can provide sources and part #s.

RotarySB

WOW! Thanks guys. All the info has been very helpful.

Zero R, thanks for the links. I had searched "single turbo daily driver" but didn't find either of the links. Maybe it was because I did an advanced search or something, I don't know. Either way, thanks for the info.

Keep the info coming. It's helping me plan out what I want to do very well.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Rich did I ever send you the new lines? They do come sleeved with 1200 degree sleeving.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

hmmm still waiting on my udated oil return line????

Good point Rich, I am still running one rubber hose that came with the kit for the coolant feed. I need to change that. Ihor not making the trip with you this year to DG?

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

madFDyo,

EVERYTHING about having a single turbo FD is better than the stock setup. (only if you use quality parts). if good parts are used and nothing is half-assed, there is NOTHING negative about the single turbo setup as opposed to the stock twins.

the only drawback is the cost. and a full kit/install of quality parts ain't cheap.

Xcentric

daily driver 94
haltech e11
1600x4 injectors
aeromotive a1000 pump in a surge tank setup
4 x msd hvc blue coils
4x 6a msd boxes
11.5 plugs
custom tubular manifold
greddy bov and wastevgate
garrett t04z on .81hotside
20-21 psi on pump, no water or alky inj
air to water intercooler
8.5 rotors

This is so much more reliable than the stock setup. One reason is I have two
vacuum sources, no a/c, no power steering, or emission stuff. If I do have to
change spark plugs it is easy now. I would go single for the reliability alone.

Also- I only run one boost level- on wastegate spring which is 22 lb spring
I think you can tune one level and get reliability. These guys that constantly
mess with the boost control run into different areas of the map and are inviting
problems, I know , i used to do it. Just pick a level you want, say 400whp,
get it tuned for that and leave it the **** alone!

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Speaking with Alex at Gotham (he's installed dozens upon dozens of single kits over the years) he recommended this stuff:

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...0+115&y=1&x=13

Figures that I find this out after I already replaced all my sleeving I'll just see how my current stuff hold up.

Btw, in case the link doesnt work, go to summitracing.com and search for 'DEI fire sleeves'

Use the 1 inch for the heater hoses, the 5/8th for the turbo coolant feed and return, and the 3/8th for assorted smaller vacuum/wastegate lines.

RotarySB

Good stuff!

2Fierce

iTrader: (7)

This thread is my hero. Xcentric, many ppl also run ebc's to monitor for spikes and make sure the wastegate doesn't malfunction. It does get very hot next to the wastegates, I've heard some stories. Also, post pics of your atw ic!

thanks

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

How can 20-21 psi without injection not cause knock? I can't see how that would be "reliable". 21 psi on straight pump just seems reckless to me. Am I missing something? Are you running 9.5 AFR?

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

I ran 20-22psi on 93 pump only, it can be done. Would I do it on a customers car?.....No.

charlies7

iTrader: (4)

retard the timing?? Then again im a nooob when it comes to tuning

2Fierce

iTrader: (7)

He's got an ATW intercooler, and he STILL hasn't posted pics!

dhahlen

iTrader: (5)

I've seen 20psi on multiple FD's using haltech ECU's - of course the cars were built and tuned by partner shops so the tuner knew exactly what he was getting into.

I DD my old red FD..

T51r KAI
Crapass Port
Meth Injection and Supra Pump
Approx 500hp, fun pulls in 3rd.
Pain in the *** with the 6 puck, and loud 4" around town isn't as attractive as it sounds.

If I was building another FD DD it would have to be a GT35r or GT40r, maybe even the 500r. But... I'll stick with my beater *** 30mpg sedan for now.

Nuvolari

iTrader: (4)

I am to lazy to go into details, but have had my FD for 7 years now. Four of them on twins w/ seq and non seq before I went single.

Single for three years no issues w/ Greddy T78 , all the typlical mentioned above. Car requires more attention when your driving , things happen pretty quick now, but it was well worth the effort.

Xcentric

Guys I've never posted pics on the web- not sure what to do..... clue me in and
I'll post a bunch of pics.- thanks

Xcentric

[QUOTE=2Fierce;7949084]He's got an ATW intercooler, and he STILL hasn't posted pics![/QU

sorry, repost

Xcentric

hpoe this works

Xcentric

thumbnail

Xcentric

Xcentric

the man cave. superbowl party with hairband, keg, and cars.