Ok guys, I'm in the process of building my TII vert to handle 600+ on a high boost setting with around 350-400 on low boost, this car is a drift car/play car. I've done my research and came up with 1000 different posts with twice as many different answers. The only way for me to find an exact opinion is to post on my own.....so here goes.

These are things I already have including 4 spare TII motors.

-S5 TII housings and rear iron
-S5 JDM TII LIM
-S4 TII complete drivetrain
-S4 rotors
-Precision PT6768 .75ar cold .82ar hot, billet wheel, anti surge housing
-Megasquirt MS3Pro EMS
-Delphi 3 bar GM MAP sensor
-AEM Wideband
-Custom 4inch Apexi GT Spec exhaust
-SR Motorsports 9lb Flywheel
-RB dual pulley setup

These are things I'm planning to purchase.

-Dual Walboro or Aeromotive 340lph pumps
-Complete -8an fuel system with ss braided lines, parallel system of course
-Aeromotive or Turbosmart FPR
-Rising RPM fuel rails
-Rising RPM FC LIM to FD UIM adapter
-80mm Throttle Body
-ID1000cc primaries/2000cc secondarys
-Turblown Stud kit
-Goopy Apex Seals
-Neukin exhaust manifold
-Tial 44mm WG
-Tial Q BOv
-Freddy FMIC
-Koyo N Flow rad
-Complete Emissions block off plates
-Pre turbo and intake water injection system that's compatible with my MS3Pro
-Stage 3 or 4 clutch
-Custom 4inch vband downpipe

Does anyone that has built a high hp 13b see anything I'm missing or might potentially need? Also with what I've listed will it even make 600+? This car is trailered to drift events and street driven on occasion. I'm only planning on running high boost for dyno days and some other rare occasions, I plan on running a low boost setting for the events and street driving. The engine will also have a medium to large street port with exhaust ports to match.

 

No one?

 

Looks like youve got the basics pretty well covered, though I dont see any plans for oiling mods?

 

Well I've been tossing around the idea of dual oil coolers but un sure as of now. What other oiling mods are you referring to?

 

You need a bigger radiator. I would add the pineapple deep sump oil pan while you're at it, and get the .96 turbine a/r. Plan on running 30psi to get 600rwhp out of that turbo.

 

Who makes a bigger radiator? I saw those oil pans yesterday but my car is pretty low and used for drifting, I don't want to smash it on something. I already have that turbo so what do you think it would make with that turbo on 23-25psi?

 

Around 525rwhp. The fc deep sump pan doesn't sit below the front subframe. K2rd used to make a bigger fc radiator, not sure if they stil do. I would call Ron Davis.

 

What port work? What fuel? 600whp on a stock assembly for drifting and fun is pushing reliability, especially with the heavier rotors. I would look at getting the rotors properly clearanced and the assembly balanced if your serious about 600whp+RPMs, and reliability. A 67mm billet H-cover, on a 68mm turbine is a decent sized turbo, (67/88 comp 79/68 turbine) all things being equal on a good port and tune with a well sorted setup on a 1.0 housing you should hit 600whp just be prepared to need a well ported engine and some boost to do so. the .82 is too small for your goals (unless undivided in which case it will flow similar to a 1.0), honestly and I rarely make this suggestion, if you plan on keeping the revs up for drifting a divided 1.15 wouldn't hurt though a 67/68 H-cover on a 1.15 will suck for a 400whp setup.

 

Ill definitely have to look into that oil pan then. And as for port work I plan on running a large street port with exhaust ports to match, on 93 with AI. I don't want to go much bigger with the turbo because I need a fairly quick spool. I just figured it would be big enough for that power goal but if not that's ok too.

 

A large SP with 93oct and AI is a push for 600whp, the turbo itself has the ability but as mentioned will need the boost to do it, not sure you will get there on pump and AI on that turbo with that port my guess is mid 500's on a well sorted setup. It's important to figure what is more important to you the fun everyday car in the 400's or the 600whp on high boost car. That turbo is not a fun 400whp turbo, you will get 1bar around 4500rpm possibly later but not much sooner if any. I also can tell you that if you are going to be pushing that high on that engine and turbo I would still stress clearancing the rotors properly and balancing the engine. Once we get over 600whp here we start to see issues with rotor tips and corner seals, not every time but most of the time. Once we clearance and balance everything 900whp, 10.5krpm, 40psi all day everyday without issue.

~S~

 

I was afraid of that. The only reason I'm using this turbo is because I got it for a steal off a buddy of mine that was running it on an MK4 Supra. I didn't want to go into clearancing and balancing because of the money. I'm not trying to cheap out I know how much it takes to build a motor right I'm just on a tight schedule since the drift season has already started. I knew lag would be an issue but it seems like some guys are running turbos around the same size and hitting full boost around 3500. I don't want or need a 900hp setup, would be nice for the bragging rights but not for drifting. Do you think switching to a GT35r or similar would still yield a decent hp number?

 

Full boost is a relative term, I can hit full boost by 2300rpm if my goal is 5psi. I certainly don't think you need a 900whp setup but I know you will start to see issues very often once near the 600whp mark, again not all engines but most. A 35R on a large SP with a 1.06 backside will get you in the mid to upper 400's on a well sorted setup on pump gas. The 1.06 A/r is a bit large for the 62mm turbine so it will drop off between shifts also the 62mm turbine tends to have higher EGTs Than say the 66mm turbine. If you're getting a deal on that turbo as well it may be alright f you don't mind those power numbers and it certainly would be a more responsive 400whp car.
If you're not getting any special deal on a 35R then I suggest looking at the 62/66 unit with a 1.0 divided backside, your loss in response will be non existent to negligible in most cases, you'll have a much better flowing turbine that will keep EGT's a bit lower when staying in it and that turbo with that A/r on a LSP engine that is well sorted should be a issue to go north of 500whp in the lower 20psi range.
If you stay in those power numbers low 500's occasionally and upper 400's mainly you shouldn't have any issues on a well sorted engine with needing rotors clearenced and balanced.

~S~

 

Well I suppose I'll just stick to a mid 400hp goal. I don't want to sacrifice responsiveness for more power since its in a drift application i don't want to keep the car in too high of rpms for a long period of time and if my EGTs will stay lower that's a plus, I'm hoping the AI will also aid in that. I appreciate all the advice and information Zero.

 

Well thanks to FirstRotaryExp I've been looking into oiling mods. I plan on using FD stat gears with the 3 window bearings and turn around 8-8.5k rpms. Would upgrading to an FD oil pressure regulator and bigger oil jets for the e-shaft be over kill or should I stick with the RB 80-85psi oil pressure regulator both with shimming the front oil pressure regulator. Also with switching to FD stat gears and bearings are there any e-shaft modifications that need to be done?