Well I posted this in the 2nd gen but I have asked so damn many questions on this section figured I would post a link..

It is actually getting close. Working on downpipe this weekend and finishing the wiring.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=130903

-Morbius

 

NICE! I bet you can't wait to drive that beast.
-m

 

Yep hell its been over a year since I have driven it waiting for the money for this project. Oh well I should have it done before the snow flies so I can drive it before storage.

-Morbius

 

Hey Morbius, engine is looking good..
I think you are running the same turbo I am, you have a cast manifold though by the looks of it, and I can't remember if you went divided or not on the exhaust housing, mine is divided with 1.15 a/r..
That is kinda neat how you rotated the cup with the adapter.



I am learning that with a turbo alot bigger than stock, even the smallest increase in airflow really affects spool time and driveability..
I was originally going to tig on some new tabs to the intake cup to rotate it much in the manner that you did, however I got lazy and use the old stock rubber reducer elbow off the stock intercooler, and welded a 2x2.5 reducer onto my intake pipe to match up to the original 2" connection on the existing intake cup.
I knew it was a restriction with everything else being 2.5", I made pretty good power, but deep down it was bothering me that it was still in there, so last weekend I cranked up the TIG and modified the stock intake cup. Basically I cut off the original 2" nipple and welded on a 2.5" cast aluminium elbow from Turbonetics and then with a carbide bit, I ported the wall to a smooth transition internally between the two welded parts..
The difference was alot bigger than what I ever imagined, the spool is about 400 rpm sooner, and boost builds quicker, all from one step up in pipe size right at the very end of the piping, and yes the car pulls harder..
I took some quick pics in case you want to do the same thing.
I am not sure what fuel system you have, but to date at 17 psi, I have run into 83% duty cycle with 2x550 cc and 2x1600 with haltech ecu and walbro 255 lph pump, running 11:1 a/f's ..2x720's and 1600's may be a better step if you get towards 20 psi or so, that will be next mod probably, as well as putting in another pump..Max

 

Another one

 

Max,

Yep your right its cast divided 1.15ar. I am also running the 550/1600cc injectors. But have yet to program the haltech. I would love to get a copy of your map since we are almost identical so I can get at least a baseline. The rotation thing seems to work good and alot of people are liking the idea. I am just waiting on burns stainless to get me my stainless for a downpipe and ill be good to go but until that is done im dead in the water. Did you get some dyno numbers with your setup yet? I would like to see those too if possible.

Thanks
-Morbius

 

I never made it to the dyno this year before the snow started falling here, I did manage to get the bulk of the tuning done just street driving the car, I have the odd flat spot still in my map, but it is a pretty decent map, I have the wideband in my car so it should be pretty close as you as set your base fuel pressure to about 35 psi at idle..
The stock intake cup is kinda hard to work with if you retain the powersteering and other stuff, I ditched my power steering and went with a manual rack which opened up the area around the driverside to run the piping.. Ideally I want to have an FD intake by spring , but so far its proving hard to find..
PM me the Email address you want it sent to, and I will send you my latest map..Max