When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I like the look of the EFR 8374 but over here in the UK they're ell over $3,000, twice the price of a GT3582R. That means I'm having to think carefully - I already have a used Greddy TD07S 25g 17in2 to put on my single-turbo conversion, but am thinking of splashing out on a new turbo where the GT3582R is quite reasonable at under $1600 with a T3 1.04 turbine housing (I've not yet researched if the balance of lag and power is better on a T4 for me).
I like the look of the EFR 8374 but over here in the UK they're ell over $3,000, twice the price of a GT3582R. That means I'm having to think carefully - I already have a used Greddy TD07S 25g 17in2 to put on my single-turbo conversion, but am thinking of splashing out on a new turbo where the GT3582R is quite reasonable at under $1600 with a T3 1.04 turbine housing (I've not yet researched if the balance of lag and power is better on a T4 for me).
i posted the TD07 compressor map, its similar to a T04S, which is probably close enough to use.
Do you have to pay high customs on it to receive it?
20-25% on top of the landed price in VAT and import duty, assuming the full value is declared that is.
The turblown cast manifold kit group buy running at the moment is effectively discounting the kit by the same amount as the VAT that'd be payable on the full price kit
Intending to buy a 7670 kit at the end of this month myself, just waiting on my new plastic...
I'm looking at your previous responses and the fact that you're not a rotary fan so I've got to ask: Why even bother? It seems as if you've made up your mind, two people who I respect very highly are giving you spot on answers and they don't seem to be what you want to hear. Maybe that should be telling you something?
reading comprehension as mentioned above, please go back and read, what you thought you read.
looking for a variety of opinions and experiences is all, thank you.
EFRs are around $1,300 to $2,300 new depending on how patient you are waiting for one/finding a deal.
I was on the lookout for a while for my EFR 7670 so paid $1,300 with the EWG T4 housing.
I am now looking at dual EFR 7163 and have a line on two supercores for $1,000 each (which would need $400-500 exhaust housings each).
You ask why the crazy disparity?
They are $500-700 each new depending on model wholesale when you buy ~$30,000 worth and some people want to unload and make their return fast and others want to make more off each turbo.
3 Rotor with a 67mm would be incredible for a 500rwhp limit
You'd spool that thing in neutral to probably full boost lol. 80mm makes full power before 5k rpm and 500rwhp @ 10psi. I can't even imagine the low end with a 60-67mm turbo
In practice that pesky turbo surgeline keeps a 3 rotor from making any more low rpm power than a 2 rotor.
That is why on a rotary you need smaller sequential twins to halve the surge lines and get the real low rpm torque through boost.
Now, if you go to a larger turbo that a 2 rotor doesn't have a chance of spooling up to the surgeline a 3 rotor will gain some low rpm power over the 2 rotor.
Unfortunately, a 2 rotor easily surges an EFR 9180 in the low rpm.
--------------------------
With the V8s they don't have this problem because they already make all the low rpm power they can put down through displacement. They don't gain any low rpm power from a turbo, but they don't lose any either...
That is why on a rotary you need smaller sequential twins to halve the surge lines and get the real low rpm torque through boost.
Now, if you go to a larger turbo that a 2 rotor doesn't have a chance of spooling up to the surgeline a 3 rotor will gain some low rpm power over the 2 rotor.
Unfortunately, a 2 rotor easily surges an EFR 9180 in the low rpm.
Sorry this is off topic, but would it be possible to open the BAC valve on the UIM to act as a controlled boost leak and move the compressor further from the surge line? Or even a solenoid valve somewhere on the charge piping?
you are lowering the PR and increasing turbo mass flow like you want; sadly the extra mass flow isn't going into your engine, so you are making the turbo work more without putting more air (flow or pressure) into your engine. This means the EMP and pumping losses from driving the turbine and the increased intake air temp from making the compressor also do this extra work are going to lower your engine power output.
You may have noticed your car makes a lot less power at 10psi with a great huge boost leak versus 10psi with no boost leak on the same turbo. Its the same thing.
I've had sequential, non sequential, 62-1 and a T-66 on all different FDs.
I really enjoy sequential and also enjoyed the power of the single turbos. My single turbo FD was 10 years ago. I was never really happy with the power output and spool of either.
Is there a new badass turbo out there that everyone is blown away by haha?
I won't run racegas so I'll only be running it at the max safe psi on 93 octane which I'm guessing is 16-17ish? I'd like to make as much power as possible, any way to make 500rwhp at that psi?
Is there a turbo out there that can do this and when would it start coming into boost?
Or if you guys can suggest a turbo that is just a blast to drive and has outstanding characteristics I'm interested.
Thanks!
Hks T51r kai + hks manifod will do 500 on pump at about 18 psi. For a big turbo, they spool quite well.
Alrighty guys, here's my (first) dyno graph.
Turbo is a borg warner S360, twin scroll. Boost pressure was 12.4psi More left in it with some more boost
IMO it makes some really solid torque at low RPMs for a cheapo turbo.
More left in it with some more boost 
