OEM to AN Fuel line fittings (firewall lines)
#1
OEM to AN Fuel line fittings (firewall lines)
I am in the process of my GT35R build for my FD. I purchased the Ultimate Fuel System from Rx7 store.
I am in the preliminary stages of how things will all go together as I am waiting to get my IM's back from being Ceramichromed.
However, I was wondering how you all are addressing fitting braided line from the OEM feed & returns that come off of the firewall.
I was thinking of utilizing these fittings....
http://97.74.103.94/files/tube.pdf
It's the flair-less AN Tube sleeve nuts on the right. Simply cut off the flares & attach the fitting.... too easy?
I was planning to give them a call to get their pressure rating to see if it would work. I have also heard of people just using 2 hose clamps over the OEM line, but I wasn't sure if this was a good idea either. Seemed to defeat the purpose of using quality fittings to have it rigged at the firewall.
Opinions????
Thanks all
I am in the preliminary stages of how things will all go together as I am waiting to get my IM's back from being Ceramichromed.
However, I was wondering how you all are addressing fitting braided line from the OEM feed & returns that come off of the firewall.
I was thinking of utilizing these fittings....
http://97.74.103.94/files/tube.pdf
It's the flair-less AN Tube sleeve nuts on the right. Simply cut off the flares & attach the fitting.... too easy?
I was planning to give them a call to get their pressure rating to see if it would work. I have also heard of people just using 2 hose clamps over the OEM line, but I wasn't sure if this was a good idea either. Seemed to defeat the purpose of using quality fittings to have it rigged at the firewall.
Opinions????
Thanks all
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#9
It's finally reliable
iTrader: (18)
Garfinkle makes an 6an adapter that you braze onto the stock rigid line.
Here in the picture is the fitting, between the braided hose and the 90 degree elbow.
you can buy the brazing rods at any local plumbing supply,just make sure they are the white flux covered rods and not copper brazing rods.
Here in the picture is the fitting, between the braided hose and the 90 degree elbow.
you can buy the brazing rods at any local plumbing supply,just make sure they are the white flux covered rods and not copper brazing rods.
#10
Garfinkle makes an 6an adapter that you braze onto the stock rigid line.
Here in the picture is the fitting, between the braided hose and the 90 degree elbow.
you can buy the brazing rods at any local plumbing supply,just make sure they are the white flux covered rods and not copper brazing rods.
Here in the picture is the fitting, between the braided hose and the 90 degree elbow.
you can buy the brazing rods at any local plumbing supply,just make sure they are the white flux covered rods and not copper brazing rods.
Also, with the lines on the firewall, would there be a risk of the fumes in the line igniting during this process?
I may hit up Garfinkle on these fittings. Thanks!
I know there are a lot of guys out there with -AN fuel setups...... Any other options?
#11
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
The less ghetto looking method for clamping 6AN hose to the factory line: http://www.racepartssolutions.com/products.asp?cat=19
#13
The less ghetto looking method for clamping 6AN hose to the factory line: http://www.racepartssolutions.com/products.asp?cat=19
Thank you
#14
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
This accomplishes the same thing but it's a cleaner look.
#15
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
iTrader: (3)
^ same here. And FWIW, one of drawbacks of a worm clamp, the wearing on the hose factor, is negated when you're using it on a hose witha woven SS covering.
There's all kinds of ways to skin that cat, just depends on how much money you want to spend on fittings and how much time you feel like wasting on one connection. I wouldn't really consider it a "ghetto" or "rigged" connection, given that there are plenty of clamped connections on the car elsewhere in the fuel system.
Also, for the poster who was asking about how to cut the flares off the line - I would probably recommend you use a tube cutter. You know, given that you are cutting tube A dremel can leave rough edges that you have to smooth off, and could potentially blow something up given that you're cutting a metal line full of gas vapours with a tool that will create sparks. Ideally, the flare should actually be left on as it will help hold the line on as it swells under pressure (which was the purpose of that flare originally)
But what do I know........
There's all kinds of ways to skin that cat, just depends on how much money you want to spend on fittings and how much time you feel like wasting on one connection. I wouldn't really consider it a "ghetto" or "rigged" connection, given that there are plenty of clamped connections on the car elsewhere in the fuel system.
Also, for the poster who was asking about how to cut the flares off the line - I would probably recommend you use a tube cutter. You know, given that you are cutting tube A dremel can leave rough edges that you have to smooth off, and could potentially blow something up given that you're cutting a metal line full of gas vapours with a tool that will create sparks. Ideally, the flare should actually be left on as it will help hold the line on as it swells under pressure (which was the purpose of that flare originally)
But what do I know........
#16
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There's nothing wrong with the above mentioned way, but if you're ever going to buy one, just buy a 37 degree flaring tool now and get the proper flare nuts. That way you know it's done right, and get bragging rights.
#17
GorillaRaceEngineering.co
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-J
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Here's another thread on the same topic from a few years ago. I had my fuel lines flared and it works well.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/stock-hard-fuel-lines-ss-braided-706414/
- Andy
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/stock-hard-fuel-lines-ss-braided-706414/
- Andy