I did search and didnt find anything so some help would be appreicated. I have a single garret t04s kit with all suporting mods. I have put about 8k on the new motor that was fully rebuilt. I put the silenter into it and changed a coolent line. Changed the coolent, got all the air out, and took the car for a drive.


I am not getting any boost in first. It spools up to 0.0 and then just sits there. If i get on it hard then it will go up to 3 lbs. When i shift into second it does the same thing. spools quick up to 0.0 and then sits there. It peaks at 7 lbs. 3-5 gear I have no problem and will get up to 14 lbs no problem. Before the car would boost at 1700 rpm and get full boost under 3k.

I took it to a shop locally and they found that the fuel pressure was real low (I think it was about 25 psi) and the oil pressure is low too (i think it is at 33 psi) but i cant remember. The fuel pressure was so low that they wouldnt take it for a drive until i got a new fuel pressure gauge (it was off and was reading 2-3 psi with the car off)

My temps are also going real high. Before I messed with the car the temps were a solid 190 water and 180-200 oil. Now the water goes to 200-210 normal driving and will reach up to 220 if you do any pulls on the car. Oil is reaching 220-240 on normal driving. I have a ron davis radiator and duel b&m oil coolers


Any help would be appreciated and thing in advanced. I am hoping its not the motor.

 

Pressure test for boost leaks (a visual check is not good enough). if you look at www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html , they sell a DSM/universal pressure tester. It's basically just some home depot parts that you could assemble yourself if you wanted to (though I just got one from them). using a 4" --> 3" reducer and that tester, pressurize the system and spray somewhat soapy water around the engine bay. wherever you feel air escaping or see water bubble, you probably have a leak there.

I'm not sure I would trust their oil and fuel pressure diagnosis without getting a better explanation of what exactly they were looking for. Oil and fuel pressure vary significantly with rpm and manifold pressure respectively.

as far as the coolant temps go, it can be really difficult to get every last bit of air out of the system. do some searches on that first.

 

They said the oil and fuel pressures were low but they said they were fine. I know the shop had the lab top hooked up to the car and drove it and were watching all the settings. The shop just told me the pressures were low. They told me my fuel pressure was really low at idle. around 25-27 psi. i was told that stock settings were 35 and high hp cars can go up to 40+ psi. They readjusted the fuel pressure to 37 psi.

The shop also flushed the coolant system and i am hoping the system is empty of air. I have started it and let it warm up letting the coolant circulate and shut it down and the system is full.

As far as a leak in the system I will look into that kit. Thanks for the link. Will it tell me if my waste gate is bad? It is just real weird and the car feels so under power.

 

Sounds like a boost leak as mentioned.

If you have a FMIC the coolant temperatures sound about right, its starting to warm up here.

Oil temps are really high though for your setup. Do you have any duct work to your bumper, like the oem coolers?

 

Your local shop is beginning to lose credibility, or you are not remembering enough accurate details about their diagnostic tests. A supposed reading of 25-27psi is within the margin of human error (looking at the gauge from an angle) and mechanical error of the gauge (sweeping analog gauge probably). This is assuming that they did not remove the vacuum line off the FPR when they checked, which would raise the pressure.

Even if it is low, your fuel pressure is hardly "really low." It would be low for a piston engine which typically runs higher fuel pressure, but if they followed that procedure there ^ your car was at worst slightly out of spec. 33 psi is not low oil pressure if it's at idle.

 

Agree on boost leak. Depending on what the fuel pressure was when the car was originally tuned it may need to be retuned with the higher fuel pressure now. But at least it would be on the rich side... did you have problems with the car before taking it to the shop?

Oil pressure at idle is fine, and going off the stock gauge for oil pressure means about nothing cause it is common to have issues. Usually a sender issue. these cars rarely have oil pressure problems.

 

I had a problem before taking it to the shop for i would know that they messed it up. The shop is a reputable shop out here in vegas and they have a guy come down from California to do motor rebuilds (they are only open a week out of the month).

I put the silencer in the car and also changed a coolant line. that is all i did. that is when i started having problems with the car. I noticed that the car ran quiter after i pulled the silencer off and felt like it doesnt have any back pressure.

The shop told me that the car isnt blown but there is a problem with it. They gave me the car back and told me to baby the car if i want it to last. they told me it could blow next week or a year from now they dont know. So it is the motor. They pressure checked the boost system and found nothing. Next time they are out i am going to get a rebuild on the car. it sucks that i just had the motor rebuilt a few thousand miles ago but this shop offers a warranty on the motor so i will feel safe with the rebuild.

I will get pics of the motor when they strip the motor down so i know what was wrong with it but i think the silencer put to much back pressure on the motor and blew something internal.

here goes rebuild number 3 and i have driven the car for about 3 months. motors are like oil changes right now. but the car is so fun to drive when it runs right

 

Get a compression test done before you even think of saying you have a blown motor.