NGK 2322 BUE spark plugs??
10-14-12, 12:09 PM
#1
NGK 2322 BUE spark plugs??
https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-as...really-945713/
In the thread above 13b-rx3 claims these are the coldest plug NGK makes, like heat range 13+, after speaking with a NGK employee. Read post 14 in this thread
Wondering if anyone has tried these in a boosted application. It seems there were a few that used them N/a and claimed they seem to work. For 4 bucks a plug I might give them a shot unless its known they don't work.
NGK Spark Plugs 2322 - NGK Standard Series Spark Plugs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
In the thread above 13b-rx3 claims these are the coldest plug NGK makes, like heat range 13+, after speaking with a NGK employee. Read post 14 in this thread
Wondering if anyone has tried these in a boosted application. It seems there were a few that used them N/a and claimed they seem to work. For 4 bucks a plug I might give them a shot unless its known they don't work.
NGK Spark Plugs 2322 - NGK Standard Series Spark Plugs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
10-14-12, 12:15 PM
#2
mazda used a similar plug in 1988, they shortly went away from it in 1989 and used the typical self cleaning BURxEQ plugs. the factory 1988 heat range plugs were SD10A(7?) and SD11A(9?).
they also sent out a bulletin to switch to the newer plugs because of starting issues in extreme conditions due to the more extreme gap of those plugs.
take it for what it's worth, you will need a stout ignition system to handle them.
i just had a car come in with the original OEM SDxxA plugs, it idled about 200RPM higher with the revised BURxEQ plugs installed. thing to note is even though the plugs had an original 40k miles on them they were only marginally worn...
try them on the dyno and see, but the colder plugs especially in combination with premix will foul extremely easy. when tuning plugs you generally shoot for hottest plug that eliminates ignition break up(spark flame blowout) and no further. 13 heat range i have never seen anyone need even when running close to or over 1k HP. they may make transition tuning easier for those extremely rich starting points but beyond that you should retune your plugs to prevent the plugs from fouling which can also cause much larger issues.
the SDxxA plugs incidentally are stupid expensive, if you can even find them. $50 per plug!
they also sent out a bulletin to switch to the newer plugs because of starting issues in extreme conditions due to the more extreme gap of those plugs.
take it for what it's worth, you will need a stout ignition system to handle them.
i just had a car come in with the original OEM SDxxA plugs, it idled about 200RPM higher with the revised BURxEQ plugs installed. thing to note is even though the plugs had an original 40k miles on them they were only marginally worn...
try them on the dyno and see, but the colder plugs especially in combination with premix will foul extremely easy. when tuning plugs you generally shoot for hottest plug that eliminates ignition break up(spark flame blowout) and no further. 13 heat range i have never seen anyone need even when running close to or over 1k HP. they may make transition tuning easier for those extremely rich starting points but beyond that you should retune your plugs to prevent the plugs from fouling which can also cause much larger issues.
the SDxxA plugs incidentally are stupid expensive, if you can even find them. $50 per plug!
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-14-12 at 12:27 PM.
10-14-12, 12:41 PM
#3
It was mentioned a CDI would be needed. So I guess a twin power on stock coils wouldn't cut it??
The reason I ask is because I have been using 9's for years and generally have to change them every 2-5k miles as the electrode melts depending on how hard I drive it... which tells me I need a cooler plug. I run 19-20 psi on pump gas and have for a few years now.
I was looking for a cheap option... as 150-200$$ for 4 spark plugs seems...ugh....
Karack, have you tried these in a boosted application, I was wondering if the large gap that you mentioned would get blown out by the increassed pressure, again the need for a strong ign
The reason I ask is because I have been using 9's for years and generally have to change them every 2-5k miles as the electrode melts depending on how hard I drive it... which tells me I need a cooler plug. I run 19-20 psi on pump gas and have for a few years now.
I was looking for a cheap option... as 150-200$$ for 4 spark plugs seems...ugh....
Karack, have you tried these in a boosted application, I was wondering if the large gap that you mentioned would get blown out by the increassed pressure, again the need for a strong ign
10-14-12, 01:14 PM
#4
never tried the cylindrical plugs for high power, i run the $25 NGK race plugs, usually the 6725 10.5 heat range plugs.
the twin power should do a decent job, similar to a CDI box from one of the other names out there.
i still don't know why everyone runs the more extreme plugs in trailing positions though. even a worn stock 9 will hold up to post 500WHP numbers easily. i see people follow the trend that mazda set with colder trailings versus leadings or matching them and i have not noted that it is necessary. the leadings are doing 95% of the work, the only thing to worry about is detonation from them BUT the plugs are recessed and cannot create a hot spot for detonation to occur, worst case they blow out and you lose the trailings under high boost. considering they are a placebo in the engine and don't work very hard i just keep the 9's there and focus on leading only. the trailings are also in a cooler position of the engine when compared to the leadings.
look at the trailing position/opening inside in the rotor housing, as long as it isn't firing too close to the leadings they are mainly there for combustion scavenging.
the twin power should do a decent job, similar to a CDI box from one of the other names out there.
i still don't know why everyone runs the more extreme plugs in trailing positions though. even a worn stock 9 will hold up to post 500WHP numbers easily. i see people follow the trend that mazda set with colder trailings versus leadings or matching them and i have not noted that it is necessary. the leadings are doing 95% of the work, the only thing to worry about is detonation from them BUT the plugs are recessed and cannot create a hot spot for detonation to occur, worst case they blow out and you lose the trailings under high boost. considering they are a placebo in the engine and don't work very hard i just keep the 9's there and focus on leading only. the trailings are also in a cooler position of the engine when compared to the leadings.
look at the trailing position/opening inside in the rotor housing, as long as it isn't firing too close to the leadings they are mainly there for combustion scavenging.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-14-12 at 01:23 PM.
10-14-12, 01:39 PM
#5
I have never had problems with the trailings melting, just the leading. Maybe run the colder plug to try to avoid cracking around the plug.
How long do the 6725's last?? I have know about them but never tried them, I can be a bit hard headed. Were are you getting them for $25?
How long do the 6725's last?? I have know about them but never tried them, I can be a bit hard headed. Were are you getting them for $25?
10-14-12, 02:15 PM
#6
about 15k miles, the housings are going to crack no matter what you do or what anyone sais. best you can do is overdo your cooling system, they mainly will show on high power engines running hotter intermittent spikes internally. it mainly has to do with thermal conductivity through the housing to the coolant, not the plugs.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-14-12 at 02:17 PM.
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