cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

ive been at these forums a lot longer than i have been registered as a member, i just usually read and learn, and i thought i had it all figured out. i heard a lot about single set-ups, but never even cared to learn about them (shame on me)... now i am in the market to purchase an FD as a project car, i am becoming very interested and i have some questions, but i couldnt find any specific answers when i searched.


my plan is to purchase an FD with a blown/bad motor, for around $7000 or less (i know that will be hard to come by)... and instead of stock twins, i am now more interested in a single set-up, because i hear it is much more reliable, and of course, more power -- my goals with the car would be to make about 450-500hp on 94 octane, and be able to drive it ~5 days a week, and still be managable in traffic... ok so here are my questions:

1) what kind of motor should i get? or should i keep the blown motor that came with the car?
2) i assume i would need a port with new seals, but i really dont know anything about what type of port/seals to get.
3) is there a good reliable kit, that comes with everything i need to make the power i am after?
4) if there is a kit, where can i get it for a good price?
5) after everything that comes with the kit, what else do i still need to get? (include everything, like intake, exhaust, dp, etc... dont leave anything out)
6) if there is no kit... what should i get? keep in mind, reliability is an issue...

and does anyone know a good place to install/tune rotaries around Northeast MD, southern PA, southern NJ? and how much would a 450-500hp motor with everything run me? i dont want to spend more than $9000 on the motor, so i can live with less hp...

sorry for the long post, thanks to anyone who took the time to read it, and i really appreciate all of you who reply! and please keep in mind... i searched haha - thanks again everyone.

Jedon

1. Have the motor that came with the car rebuilt. You might or might not need new housings etc depending on the condition of the motor.
2. Get a street port and stock 2mm seals.
3. It's not the kit that makes it reliable but the tuning and the system as a whole.
4. Depends on what kit...
5. You need a large intercooler, fuel injectors, fuel pump, ECU, high flow cat or midpipe, downpipe, catback, gauges, larger radiator etc. Some kits come with more stuff than others, like the downpipe, blow off valve, and intake.
My motor was $4500 in parts (pretty much all new parts) and $2700 in labor (I pulled the engine myself). Your mileage may vary greatly.
I believe the RX7Store and most other shops have "staged" upgrade paths that come with everything you need.
-Jedon

ttpowerd

450-500rwhp is going to be a bear of a daily driver!

Managable in traffic

It will cost you a lot of money to take a blown engine rx7 and make it a monster....
motor~$3.5k with port job
single turbo kit~$3.5-4k depending on kit
intercooler~$1.5k
fuel upgrades~$1k
ecu~$1.5k
clutch&flywheel~$1k if not more
suspension~$$$ depending on what you put into it

ttpowerd

Oh, and are you going to install all of this?? if not then tack a lot more to that total. I am not trying to discourage but it is a big project and having that kind of power on the streets is going to be hard to manage in stop and go traffic.
Good luck

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

I have some very generous friends, that would be willing to help install things for a very discounted price and i know it will be one hell of a project, but it will be worth it in the end... and i wouldnt call it a "daily driver" those approx. 4/5 days a week i would be driving it would vary greatly, and i practically never see stop and go, but it does happen occasionally... 450hp would never equal my daily driver, thats why i have my beater well thanks everyone for all the info, ill go check out some sites and see what i need...

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

so is everyone agreed that this is the best way to go? i thought that there were better replacements than stock seals... but i really have no idea. and also, whats the difference between street ports, and aggressive street ports, etc... ive heard a few different terms thrown around in the forums here...

thanks again everyone
-Charlie

JonesersRX7

I asked the same kinda question
Here is the link I got

Port Jobs

I would just assume a greater degree of the port job, almost said valve job! Damn Chevy engines! Basically meaning that a more severe angle is ground out. If you look at the link you could assume maybe some where in between the Street port and the Bridge port with out the bridge?

Dunno..

Eric

KraftDinner

Maybe that much if you spend money like most 3rd gen owners (overpay for everything, and spend twice as much as you have to). You can get some of those parts cheaper (ie: engine for $1000 less), but overall, the total is about right b/c you will be adding in little things here or there. Can you do your own mechanical work such as removal/install of the engine and turbo kit? That will be a large factor in how much it will cost you.

If you want it streetable, the best set ups (from reading the forums, I don't even HAVE an RX-7 anymore!) would be a fairly large streetport, a large single turbo such as the T78, T51 KAI, GT35/40 and run about 20-26 psi of boost. You'll need as stated a new computer system, such as Haltech, Motec, Apex Power FC, Microtech, Wolf3d, etc (check out ECU forum). I'm not exactly sure what the best fuel system woudl be, b/c I don't know what system you would be running yet, but 850cc primaries and 1300-1600cc secondaries sounds about right for the injectors. Like stated, over 450 rwhp on a 13B means you are starting to lose good streetability, imo.

Sidestick

iTrader: (1)

Is 450-500rwhp doable on 94 octane as he wants?

Jedon

There is great debate over seals but basically here it is:
1. Stock 2mm seals are very tight and good for a lot of power but when they break it totally thrashes your housings and probably turbos.
2. 3mm seals are a little sturdier but require milling the rotors to accept them and most places don't do it precisely enough
3. Ceramic seals are da bomb but cost $1400
4. Carbon seals are for racing since they wear down quickly
5. Hurley Engineering makes "long life" seals that are easier on your housings
There are 1 peice, 2 peice and 3 peice seals of various designs and materials. The best one for you really depends on your application. After much debate I decided on the stock 2mm seals since it's mostly a street car with a track day once in a while.
-Jedon

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

thanks again guys, i appreciate all the help... i'll definitely be doing a lot of reading now, but im sure ill have a few more questions before i get it all underway