Well the time has come to start a new chapter with my rx-7. Im converting to a bigger single turbo setup. My list of parts that Ive purchased some are on the car as of now.

Car
-94 FD touring Looks bone stock but thats just looks.

Engine
-Stock block rebuilt with stock ports

Turbo configuration
-Master power t70 turbo with 96 a/r turbine housing
-Rx-7 store down pipe
-Precision 46mm waste gate
-New OBX manifold modified
-Greddy bov
-Greddy elbow
-Pettit cool charge III I/C

Coolng system
-koyo Radiator
-Mishimoto radiator hoses
-Custom breather tank dual -6 for blowby

Ecu/management
-Microtech lt8 plug and play
-Boost controller Eboost2
-Aem wideband
-Battery relocated to bin iim going with PC680

Fuel system
-CJ motorsports fuel rails
-6an fittings all around
- (4) ID1000cc
-FPR w Gauge
-Denso supra Fuel Pump

Drive train
-ACT Clutch 6 puck Solid with HD PP
-Solid motor mounts
etc
etc
etc

So need some opinions did I go to small on the injectors or should ii be fine till 450-475 hp. I might tune the car at 14-15 psi but will see when i dyno it. I think everything is pretty upgraded but most people dont run 4 id1000. They tend to use the (2)ID1000 with (2) ID 2000 for up top but I just wanted to limit myself for the time being. What do you guys think???

 

Conservatively you've got enough injector for low 400whp range 450whp+ would be pushing it IMO.
You could've left the stock 550's and ran 2k secondaries and been better off.

~S~

 

Sean is on the money.

you have a 600+ hp turbo and injector capacity for 373 rw rotary hp.

see my assumptions re this figure in my sticky thread:

How To: Fuel Injector Sizing.

the concept of running a much larger turbo than you will use (capacity-wise) is flawed from many aspects.

why drag around un-needed capacity? it hurts you all the time in lag and in-efficiency.

rest assured you will at some point get in to an overboost situation and you will go lean and break your motor. i suggest you add in the cost of a rebuild if you keep your present setup.

please take this as constructive advice.

given your 450/475 objectives you could go w a turbo w a 6.3 sq inch compressor or a 7 inch compressor as opposed to your 8.725 compressor.

good luck,

howard

 

Forgot to mention a crap turbo, why do peole waste money on crap instead of buying a trusty/more suitable BW turbo for roughly the same $?

 

"Forgot to mention a crap turbo, why do people waste money on crap instead of buying a trusty/more suitable BW turbo for roughly the same $?"

i didn't forget, 'just being polite but do agree. i would go w the BWS300 61.4 FMW for this app. i would also suggest a swap in of a digital fuel pressure sensor instead of the semi worthless analog which tells you nothing about your fuel pressure when you need it, at 20 psi and 7000 rpm. check w Honeywell... under $100 to not ever worry about your fuel... given the Denso pump... if it hasn't been hard wired it is running at 11. something volts and could be an issue. do it right, hard wire it and add a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump for about $200. (i do like the pump, it just needs a bit of help)

it never ends BTW.

HC

 

I've decided I'm going to sell my turbo and upgrade. Ill lower my power goal for now as well I think Ill do a conservative 400hp and back off timing a bit and richen the air fuel ratio. I'm going to rewire the fuel pump with bigger gauge wire so it helps with voltage. The reason I didn't stay with 550s because I bought the new fuel rails and I wanted to clean my fuel system up. I do appreciate all the advice I really want something built decent.

 

If you bough ID injectors I would sell a pair and buy a set off bosch EV 14 2000 for the secondary, you can get the bosch 2000 for around 125 each.

I agree with all the above posts, you don't have enough fuel. There are so many build threads out there and people keep buying the wrong parts for their setup or power goals.

Easy and safe setup for 400-500 hp
Bosch EV14 1000/2000 injectors, you can also get away with also using the stock 550 for primaries for up to 500hp but I wouldn't push it.

Bosch 044 fuel pump, as Howard mentioned above you need to hard wire the pump, minimum 10 gauge wire from battery to positive side of pump.

Borg Warner S300-366 .91 you can pickup a S366 of the shelf for around 625.00

 

I typed something out and then basically said I better not.

For the money spent on the setup you have you could have spent marginally more on a 6266 kit with a much better quality manifold and turbo for basically $2500. Granted those OBX/ebay manifolds are can be had for pennies though. That aside. The EV14's will work great we've ran plenty of 550/2k's and 550/2200 setups with no issues and perform very well.

~S~

 

Also hope you didn't pay to much for that OBX manifold as is the same as the $90.00 eBay one.

 

I don't agree the manifolds are actually different from the $90 dollar ones. These have a real t4 flange and pretty clean in and out. I'm cutting the flange off and installing the vband for the precision 46mm. I paid $195 for it and have used them before so I know it performs well.

 

Would the ev14s even fit on the CJ motorsports with no modification? I know the injector dynamics mate on the rails with no spacers or modification to anything! So are guys saying the supra fuel pump won't cut it?

 

EV14s come in 3 lengths so probably you will find a fit. i have no knowledge on this specific app.

as far as the supra pump, tell me what turbo you will run and i will tell you if you need a diff pump.

your pump upgrade options have changed in 2014.

the ultimate (IMO) pump for gas is the drop in Walbro PN 9000262. it sets new standards in deliverability and is relatively inexpensive.

or

bolt on a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump and set it for a 20% volt gain in boost.

as far as "hard wiring" the pump... besides bigger wire you need to do an insulated stud at the bulkhead and get rid of the OE connector.

howard

 

I'm not knocking the manifold, but the $90.00 one would have giving you the same result as the 175.00 one, I have few friends that have ran the 90 dollar eBay manifold for over 3 years and putting down between 500-550.




The ID injectors are actually Bosch EV14 that ID does some additional flow matching and testing and then charges 100 dollars more. You just need to make sure that you get the right injectors length for the rails you have.

 

The rails will take any 14mm top feed injector. If you have 48mm injectors (the "standard" size) then youll need the appropriate stands for the rail. Most people run the 60mm injector (48mm injector with a 12mm top hat spacer).

10ga to a bosch pump? ick. quit running bosch pumps. aeromotive 340 is half the size and is enough fuel for ~533rwhp. Also its $127 bucks.

You could also switch to the xsessive LIM for 4 secondary ports. I do believe CJ will drill out the 2 spots for the 4 injectors if you ask them nicely.

 

I ran twin 340 before, they outflow the bosch at idle, but not once you start pushing boost, plus the 340 are power hungry, they need more amperage to run.

 

1 340 supported 519 in my car on a 12ga wire. bypassed resistor (new relay in the back)

 

Personally know few guys running bosch 044@ above 550hp 0n 1 pump.
Also know someone that blew the motor due to a 340 that failed.

But you keep running your 340, you be ok. I will now stick with what has being proven way before the 340 or 480 pumps came up.

The OP can make his own choice, there is plenty proof out there of what the Bosch 044 , the Aeromotive 340 and walbro 485 can do.

Also few weeks ago I went to help a friend to get his car running since he installed a new ecu, and crusing adjusting the map his Supra Denso pump that was 2-3 years old took a ****, thank god that it was right after we stop to get gas and not while doing a 20 psi pull.

 

Where do I get these Bosch EV14 2000cc that replace my ID's. My ID1000 are 48mm with no

hats. So I need 48mm Bosch EV14 that use no hats in order for them to mate to my CJ

motorsport rails? I cant find a rock solid website that sells them....

BTW I went ahead and decided im going with a BWS366 with 91 a/r in the rear with twin scroll.

They seemed to be well priced. If I go any smaller on the Borg warner stuff the price jumps

significantly higher. So I dont think I can't go wrong with this Turbo and still have room to grow

in the future.

The Fuel pump will be replaced with a Bosch 044 and rewired.

Then I should be good to go up to 500 hp ...

 

With the 1000/2000 and the S366 with dual Aeromotive 340 and a mid street port my old setup dyno @ 487@18 psi and 592@28 psi.

 

This is the part number for the 2200 on 48mm 0280158821-48.

However they are more expensive than the short 33mm that sell for 125-130, you can get the adapter hats to convert to 48mm and be a lot cheaper than buying the mid size 48mm. You can get the hats from FFE, that's what I did to my extra set. Make sure you tell them for 14mm oring.

 

I haven't seen that exact manifold, but the .96 A/R tells me it's undivided. You really should go with a divided manifold and turbine housing. It has a big effect on spool--Mazda used twin scroll from the factory for series 5 turbo engine.

 

lots of good info, wished i had the money to start my single setup.

 

My manifold is divided and the new bws366 will be too. But your correct the old mp t70 is not.