new rx7 with mods any info?
10-18-12, 08:10 PM
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new rx7 with mods any info?
Hey guys im new to the rotary group. I just purchased a single turbo rx7 and wanted to see if you guys see anything that would help me figure out what i have. I bought this car from someone that knew nothing about it. So far i have identified most of the parts but still tring to figure out if the motor is built and what turbo is on it. Car runs good and pulls strong. When i got it low boost was 15 and i never have tried high boost. i turned the boost down to 12 which is the minimum for now. Car has 1000 cc primary injectors and 1680cc seconadry injectors according to the pfc.
I have built many turbo hondas and bmw cars before and am very familiar with turbo setups but just want to get a hand in figuring out what i have here so i can maximize this setup safely.
Thanks for any input
Also the two small pics below are videos just click on them.
I have built many turbo hondas and bmw cars before and am very familiar with turbo setups but just want to get a hand in figuring out what i have here so i can maximize this setup safely.
Thanks for any input
Also the two small pics below are videos just click on them.
Last edited by intvic18t; 10-18-12 at 08:16 PM.
10-18-12, 10:44 PM
#5
Could be a greddy or HKS turbo kit, I'm leaning towards a modified greddy. You need to take the air filter off and get a picture. Did you say the backplate on the compressor housing was blue? Someone might have changed the CHRA/compressor housing to a turbonetics unit, and reused that old style 2 bolt turbine housing( looks like a P trim housing). Engine has been rebuilt with new housings at one point in time..
10-19-12, 11:35 AM
#6
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I will get some pics of turbo with filter off tonite if I get time.
Also what when u say engine housing is that the block? And what give them away as far as being replaced? I'm still new to these engines
Also what when u say engine housing is that the block? And what give them away as far as being replaced? I'm still new to these engines
10-19-12, 04:56 PM
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10-19-12, 06:16 PM
#8
As am I and some people will disagree or 100% agree with me on this one but if your able to: ditch the fmic and go with a v-mounted intercooler setup. Especially if you plan on running the car in the upper 400+ whp range on the street in traffic. These engines run hotter than the average piston engine already. For some people a fmic works fine, for others in hotter climates its a no-go.
Oh, I might of missed it but is the car running any sort AI (water/meth injection for temps?)?
Make reliability the first step and your going to have a trouble free, monster of a car that I'm only beginning to get to know as well.
Oh, I might of missed it but is the car running any sort AI (water/meth injection for temps?)?
Make reliability the first step and your going to have a trouble free, monster of a car that I'm only beginning to get to know as well.
Last edited by TougeSpirit; 10-19-12 at 06:18 PM.
10-19-12, 06:16 PM
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Thanks for the info on the engine.
Would like to find out if they have been replaced and if so what has been done. which i know is next to impossible without tearing it down. Everything looks to be in really good shape and pretty clean.
I also got more pictures of the turbo to help indenfy what it is.
And i see the omp is still attached to the block can the pfc still make it work or is it just sitting there?
I am premixing the gas for now till i find out more info.
Would like to find out if they have been replaced and if so what has been done. which i know is next to impossible without tearing it down. Everything looks to be in really good shape and pretty clean.
I also got more pictures of the turbo to help indenfy what it is.
And i see the omp is still attached to the block can the pfc still make it work or is it just sitting there?
I am premixing the gas for now till i find out more info.
10-19-12, 06:24 PM
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As am I and some people will disagree or 100% agree with me on this one but if your able to: ditch the fmic and go with a v-mounted intercooler setup. Especially if you plan on running the car in the upper 400+ whp range on the street in traffic. These engines run hotter than the average piston engine already. For some people a fmic works fine, for others in hotter climates its a no-go.
Oh, I might of missed it but is the car running any sort AI (water/meth injection for temps?)?
Make reliability the first step and your going to have a trouble free, monster of a car that I'm only beginning to get to know as well.
Oh, I might of missed it but is the car running any sort AI (water/meth injection for temps?)?
Make reliability the first step and your going to have a trouble free, monster of a car that I'm only beginning to get to know as well.
More and more i look i see that someone has gone over all know issues im reading on this forum. Alum radiator,air coolant seperator, low temp thermo, lower fan switch, etc
I keep looking for something to do to it but everything looks to be in order.
10-19-12, 08:00 PM
#12
Turbo looks like a 35r/to4s size( 60mm ish) with the filter off. You would have to pull the compressor cover off and measure it to be sure, unless you can find a serial #
You can pre mix on top of the OMP no worries, in fact I would suggest it especially at elevated boost pressures.
You don't need AI especially at 12psi. But its a nice safty net especially if you plan to run high boost pressures.
If you are looking for stuff to do to it, check the brakes and suspension joints and such. Seems some one has done whats needed to support a single. What did you pick it up for?
You can pre mix on top of the OMP no worries, in fact I would suggest it especially at elevated boost pressures.
You don't need AI especially at 12psi. But its a nice safty net especially if you plan to run high boost pressures.
If you are looking for stuff to do to it, check the brakes and suspension joints and such. Seems some one has done whats needed to support a single. What did you pick it up for?
10-20-12, 03:55 PM
#14
I came back to this thread to see if you made any progress on ID. As far as things you can still..
-Polish your hard pipes
-Polish/Ceramic coat your UIM/TB/LIM (Polish by hand if you really need something to do)
-Check out your suspension situation like mentioned above
-Check any vaccuum lines for wearing out/coming off
-Match your vaccuum lines to 1 color
-Wire tuck
-Clean up rotors/calipers
Gl
-Polish your hard pipes
-Polish/Ceramic coat your UIM/TB/LIM (Polish by hand if you really need something to do)
-Check out your suspension situation like mentioned above
-Check any vaccuum lines for wearing out/coming off
-Match your vaccuum lines to 1 color
-Wire tuck
-Clean up rotors/calipers
Gl
10-26-12, 07:34 PM
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So ive been running the car for a couple days now and it is a amazing car. All suspension and brakes look new. Everything has been addressed it seems.
Turbo looks to be a T51r went to a dyno the other day and thats what they said it was.
Ill post a video of it on the dyno when i get it uploaded.
Been running on 10 lbs and on dyno a/f looked good so thinking of trying 15lbs. Any ideas?
Car has duel pumps with 1000cc pri and 1680cc sec injectors.
Was on 15lbs when i got it but i was just unsure so i cut it back to 10.
Turbo looks to be a T51r went to a dyno the other day and thats what they said it was.
Ill post a video of it on the dyno when i get it uploaded.
Been running on 10 lbs and on dyno a/f looked good so thinking of trying 15lbs. Any ideas?
Car has duel pumps with 1000cc pri and 1680cc sec injectors.
Was on 15lbs when i got it but i was just unsure so i cut it back to 10.
10-26-12, 08:09 PM
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Also after watching many videos/sound clips i also think its a bridge ported engine. As it sounds like its cammed up (although i know theres no cams lol).
Is that a good way to tell?
Seems like all the sound clips of bridge ported engines sound cammed up and stock run pretty smooth.
Is that a good way to tell?
Seems like all the sound clips of bridge ported engines sound cammed up and stock run pretty smooth.
10-27-12, 10:30 AM
#18
The turbo is a To4S, aka 60-1. "loping" at idle can also be running too rich, or more often a hurt apex seal..
The laser etched serial numbers on the rotor housings mean the housings have been produced in the past 9 years...
Lets see the dyno plot with the AFR curve...
The laser etched serial numbers on the rotor housings mean the housings have been produced in the past 9 years...
Lets see the dyno plot with the AFR curve...
Last edited by Turblown; 10-27-12 at 10:32 AM.
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