sk8world

iTrader: (5)

So I built my first motor and fired it up. Motor fired up on first turn over but was running on one rotor (front) also had a leak on primary rail. Pulled primary rail back out fixed leak, pulled the coils and wires checked them, pulled the crank sensors and checked them, installed it back on and it fired up on both rotors but after a bit of idling went back to one rotor but rear this time. Put in new plugs and now it runs on both rotors. Idle is pretty good now. At 900-1000 rpms I am seeing 11-12hg on vac. driving is a bit rough and stumbles if I hold rpms the same.

Is there a front and rear specific injector clip? Or can they go to either one?

I am going to go over the wiring as i did put on new clips and re solder and heat shrink all connections. Also gong to go over the ignition system as I worry there could be an issue there.

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

No, front and rear clips won't matter as long as they're the primaries... but I would definitly use butt connectors instead...soldering can be fragile and unreliable with engine vibrations.

Also, how long have you been running the new engine? A freshly rebuilt motor will tend to run pretty rough and will get smoother and build more vacuum once ran for a couple hours.

Also, it would be nice to know your other supporting mods...injector sizes, ecu, etc.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

no, these are button caps inj, clips. I resoldered the splices into harness. years back I just used crimps ...

Motor has 45mins-1 hour max on it. The set up is PFC, 4 X 1680's. Now these large primary's may be part of the culprit as I have not adjusted more then inj size and %'s on the pfc. No driving adjustments have been made. AFR's are a little rich but nothing crazy.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

You have a complete different port now, right?

Which apex seals did you go with?

Congrats on the new motor. Sounds like you might have a loose connection somewhere.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, its a med-lrg port done by myself. These plates were matched to a RE mani setup ..


ALS seals as you first mentioned 6 months ago (thanks!)

Here is a video of idle:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4p59YimSmQ

Busted7

I think its becouse of run time and too rich, get it tuned the 1600 primaries are touchy from what ive seen.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

If you are referring to the primary injector wiring connecters, it does matter that you do not switch them. The injectors are TIMED to inject fuel at a precise time.
Swapping them will cause poor fuel delivery.

You all need to learn about EFI.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Chuck.. I will go over the wire colors to verify front and rear.

Yeah Busted, I am going to put the 1000's back in and se how that goes for a bit. That is enough inj. for me I was just planning on playing with E85 down the road. Also the 1000cc bosch's suck for mounting with no leaks...

Busted7

I just remember a friend getting tuned in St Louis with 4 1600inj and it wasn't easy for Steve to get it set and it didnt make that much more power than me!
You know im not telling you i know anything but at idle it sounds a little flat to me {no loop} if it were leaned out it might sound diffrent!

Gorilla RE

iTrader: (1)

Remind me never to let you within a mile of anything with an engine in it
The pri injector connectors DO have specific front/rear plugs. Actually on the factory harness the front pri and sec injector plugs have white tape on them so they can be identified as such.

BUTT CONNECT THEM?? ARE YOU SERIOUS??

Your idling problem is most likely a fuel issue. Rotaries tend to like high 12s to low 13s on the idle a/f. Depending on port and idle rpm these things may vary.

What size pri inj are you running? Larg injectors do not like to open and close at low (idling) speeds and tend to be very tricky to tune. I suggest running a very negative inj lag on the pri to help with the idle.
Also check your ground on your ignition amp and coils. I have seen this be the cause of many front-rear rotor speratic ignition issues.

-J

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

What size pri inj are you running? Larg injectors do not like to open and close at low (idling) speeds and tend to be very tricky to tune. I suggest running a very negative inj lag on the pri to help with the idle.
Also check your ground on your ignition amp and coils. I have seen this be the cause of many front-rear rotor speratic ignition issues.

-J[/QUOTE]


well I am going to put the 1000's back in and worry about running the 1680's later if E85 ever becomes easier to get here. Good idea on checking the ign. and coil grounds. I will post up my results..

djseven

iTrader: (56)

I would imagine the low vacuum is due to too much fuel being injected into the engine. Ask me how I know I accidentally switched the coolant temp and fuel temp sensor one time and the car went from pulling 16 inch/vac at idle to about 10-11 inch/vac at idle. Car would still idle fine but would smoke lightly with fuel at idle. Installed new spark plugs and switch the connectors around the correct way and after a few seconds had 16 inch/vac again at idle.

Busted7

Lower vacum also indicates a street port, I run 12hg vac at 1000 rpms.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

yeah, these ports are larger than my old set up and it pulled 12-14. So I was not saying I was worried but I felt the vac was a good indicator that the motor was good. I am still a bit sick (damn sinus thing going around) so maybe tonight I will confirm the correct wiring to primary's and put the smaller injectors back in.

Busted7

You will get a handle on it and after its tunned it will sound diffrent.

Hope you get to feeling better sinus problems can knock you out!

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I ran 9hg on my old ITO Streetport.

Good to hear you're running the ALS seals.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, you know how it is when sinus crap happens, atleast for me I can not think clear. So the last thing I need to work on is my car right now.. I will end up with my wideband in a spark plug hole...LOL

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Woops. Thanks Chuck. I guess I lucked out when I put mine together and didn't realize that... tuning went well too. Would it be noticable if they were switched?

As for crimping vs soldering... I've read many different places that crimp would be better for resistance or something with injectors, etc... Plus I've seen crimps on the oem harness myself and HKS even had crimps in with the twinpower harness... I don't know a lot of different info everywhere.

I just don't like soldering because it's tough to get it right sometimes and with a good crimper, you can't go wrong...

Sorry to go off topic...

danameisoj

iTrader: (6)

for wires as important as fuel delivery id make sure it has a good solder on it .

As for the idle issue . Im thinking along the lines of tuning issues. The 1600's are a PITA to get going well. Ive heard many tuners having to take some time to figure out the values in order to make everything smooth.

Please keep us updated on those apex seals as I am also interested in going that route for my t70 setup I plan on doing .

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

It depends on how well it is done.
I know a local Houston Porsche race shop that only crimps, but they use special expensive tools with gold plated parts (aircraft quality).

I crimp if posible with no plastic covers, then solder the crimp with heat shrink around it.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

ok, injectors fixed. Put the 1000 cc's back in and added a FJO inj. controller so resisters are gone. Car starts up idle's drive's fine. I am seeing high knock under very light load. Was thining it was drivetrain noise??
If I roll on the throttle very lightly as soon as a few psi is built it breaks up bad. Knock goes down but it breaks up. Almost feels like its too rich but afr's are dead on. ???