Already did a search, found one incomplete one will alot of people in the Thread asking question including the person who wrote it. I want someone who knows what the hell they are doing to show me a nice diagram. Also while running a PFC do I need to change anything electronicly on the engine now that I'm running a single?

Thanks

 

you want a single setup with no emissions right? Just take out ALL of the solenoids and ALL of those stupid hoses and you're on the right track. All you need to keep is

1 - line to your fuel pressure reg
2 - line to your MAP sensor
3 - line(s) to your oil metering bolts
4 - line to your blow off valve
5 - line to your wastegate

I think that's it unless I'm totally missing something. I love being able to do a complete vac hose job in my car in 5 minutes without unbolting anything

Brian

 

if someone could send me a pic of the engine with the upper intake off, showing the rats nest, that would REALY be helpful. I can't take chances I couldn't aford another motor

 

6 - PCV line. At least to the manifold, probably best to have the one upstream of the turbo inlet as well. Or a breather tank.

7 - Boost control. Wastegate uses 2 lines if you have some kind of boost control.

 

ooh boy so i only need one solinoid, i dont need the relief 1, switching, or egr??? cause ill take um out but only if ya r surE>?

 

8 - evap. emissions control solenoid. I keep finding the damn things.

If you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator you do not need any of the solenoids that fit under or attach to the UIM. Dougie, your EGR is already non-functional because of your Power FC. I will make a revised version of the vacuum diagram if no one already has one.

 

Nothing under there with my single setup. And i mean nothing.. all selinoids can be desposed of. You can use nipples off UIM for vaccum to your boos guage, fuel, wastegate, controller etc... going single; simplifies everything.

 

AAgh, modifying the existing diagram is a pain in the *** if you have the Photoshop skills of a chimp like me. Here goes a verbal description, this will make sense when you are actually LOOKING at your engine at not just talking about it.

1 - line to aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Attach to UIM after throttle body as close as possible to MAP sensor.

2 - line to MAP sensor. Re-attach to where it was attached before you started, on UIM after throttle body.

3 - oil metering bolts. I believe these need to see vacuum at all times, so that means attaching at the compressor inlet of your turbo. Easier said than done. Easiest is to remove OMP and use pre-mix.

4 - line to blow off valve. Attach to UIM after throttle body.

5 - lines to wastegate. TiAL recommends between compressor outlet and throttle body. One line goes to side of wastegate head, other goes to aftermarket boost control solenoid, then to top of wastegate head.

6 - PCV lines. One large one from oil filler neck to PCV valve to UIM after throttle body as before. Small one from oil filler neck to inlet side of turbo compressor. There is some debate as to whether a simple catch can with a small filter on top can replace these effectively. I dunno.

7 - already done

8 - evaporative emissions control purge solenoid. Runs from steel tube to the right and below the throttle body, through the catch can attached to the bottom of the throttle body, over to solenoid mounted by the base of the oil filler neck, to the UIM after the throttle body. Whether you keep this one is up to you. My car smells a little of gas without it.

Plug all the holes you didn't re-use.

Am I missing anything?

 

can you tell me why this one is incomplete?

http://www.3rdgenrx7.com/images/blk/singlevachose.jpg

thanks

 

I don't have a fuel pressure reg. yet, do i need one? I plan on running a larger fuel pump and injectors

 

hey tyson

so u dont run that solenoid what did u do to block it off

 

1 - It has no provision for the the fuel pressure regulator, neither stock or aftermarket.

2 - The line that says 'to breather' should connect to the oil filler neck, which I believe is the intention of the drawing (PCV).

3 - The red question marks are the oil metering bolts. I think they have to connect 'to intake' like the PCV.

4 - You could split the line going to the wastegate. Add a boost controller to one and run it to the top port of the wastegate.

5 - I don't know the purpose of the line running to the lower left corner of the LIM. Maybe someone with more experience can help.

 

Umm, nothing. I removed the steel line running under the car, but the hose still comes out of the canister. I don't know if this is the right thing or not, but the vapours have to escape somewhere, and I have no idea if opening the gas tank once a week will cut it.

 

You will have to retain the stock one, this means you will need one solenoid on the rack. The pressure regulator control solenoid is the last one on the back of the rack.

 

ok
so ur sayin the only solinoid u need is the fpr solinoid right, u dont need the ones i listed above

 

You dont even need the solenoid thats in the middle of the FPR vacuum lines!
Marc

 

thanks for the help, but I still don't know who is right, I've had so many conflicing PM's and posts.

 

So far every post here has been right. With the stock FPR you don't need to have the FPR solenoid, but leaving it in the circuit will still work (that's what I'm doing). You do need a hose from the LIM to the FPR at the very least. Don't try running with no FPR, or with no hose to an FPR!

The only difference with the FPR solenoid is under warm start conditions it might take a few seconds for the lumpy idle to smooth out (Pettit eliminates this sol as a matter of practice on all of the cars I've seen from them).

Also you don't need a PCV (crankcase) valve. You can just let it breath/catch can it.

As for the Purge Control system, I have mine capped at the tank under the Throttle body, but I'm sure there's a better way.

 

well I had allrotor93 tell me that you NEED an aftermarket FPR for running higher than stock boost levels. And he seems to know what he is talking about, he's built a few 7's

 

still no sure answer

 

U'm that's a really incomplete post.

What's the question? Should you get an after market FPR? Do you need to use the sol/valve with the stock FPR? What?

NO you don't need the FPR Sol/valve reguardless of what FPR you're using.

 

Ok I know how to hook up the single turbo stuff, wastegate / BOV and I'm also gona run an ajustable FPR all I want to know is what do i need on the motor itself, here is what i have hooked up

- vac/boost line to map or boost sensor
- larg line for the PCV
- the lines for the oil injection - (what do they go to, do they just need to breath?)

and where are these?
PCV lines. One large one from oil filler neck to PCV valve to UIM after throttle body as before. -> Small one from oil filler neck to inlet side of turbo compressor.

evaporative emissions control purge solenoid. Runs from steel tube to the right and below the throttle body, through the catch can attached to the bottom of the throttle body, over to solenoid mounted by the base of the oil filler neck, to the UIM after the throttle body. Whether you keep this one is up to you. My car smells a little of gas without it.


thanks

 

In the stock setup, the oil injector thingies have a line that runs to the primary compressor inlet elbow. That will produce a little vacuum, but not a huge amount. On my RX6 kit, the same hose goes over to the intake filter base, which should be in the same ballpark in terms of vacuum.

I have been running the stock FPR with 1300 injectors and a very high flow in-tank pump. I have since installed an aftermarket regulator and plan to remove the stock regulator. I did this because the aftermarket FPRs seem to react more quickly and linearly to manifold pressure. Also, I would get a pressure bump when the fuel pump switches to high speed (the relay shorts the resistor), and I also hope that the aftermarket FPR will eliminate that phenomenon by offering less of a restriction in the return line. The stock FPR works, but I think an aftermarket FPR offers some control advantages.

Most aftermarket rails for "1600" injectors require the use of an aftermarket regulator.

-Max

 

thanx max