REX070

Hi can some one please send me settings for avcr on single turbo fd.

2x 850cc prime and 1680cc sec, Turbonetics TO4b single turbo, hks 50mm waste gate, 2 supra 225 fuel pumps, greddy fmic, apexi avcr and apexi fc controller.

REX070

STEP 1) Install the Solenoid

The solenoid controls the air pressure provided to the precontrol and wastegate actuators, thus allowing user control of boost. If you blow through the solenoid (NO or COM port) you will feel a little resistance, but air will flow. If air doesn't flow there is probably a problem. (So loss of power to the solenoid will result in low boost, not max boost...)

Remove air box and intake piping so that you can access the precontrol and WG actuators (look almost straight down).
Remove both of the hoses going from the manifold to Precontrol & WG actuators - hoses are held on by expandable metal clips
Following the directions, use the supplied plastic 'T's and hoses, and 'T' the manifold ports to the NO port on solenoid.
'T' the Precontrol & WG actuator ports to the COM port on solenoid.
Mount the solenoid - use the rubber pad. Mine is mounted on the fender wall near the ABS unit.



STEP 2) Disconnect factory solenoids

This MUST be done, otherwise boost cannot be controlled.

There are two ports each on the wastegate & precontrol actuators. The top port from each is running to the solenoid (step above), the second port is at the bottom and to the right... you cant see it, but it's easy to feel.
Disconnect bottom ports on each
Plug both these ports (i.e. rubber stopper and tie wrap)
Plug both hoses that were connected to the ports



STEP 3) Install pressure sensor

Pressure sensor monitors manifold pressure to provide 'closed-loop' boost control.

Find a hose on intake manifold and 'T' it to the pressure sensor.
Use the supplied air filter and mount the sensor so the hose connector points downward.
On my car there were two threaded holes on the fender-wall, close to the firewall, next to the ABS. The pressure sensor mounted there PERFECTLY (supply your own machine screws).



STEP 4) Wiring harness

Start with harness inside the car and run the solenoid and pressure sensor wires into the engine compartment.
You do not need to cut the wires, the wire 'ends' can be removed from the plastic connector using a small screwdriver (pop out plastic insert.)
Hole in firewall behind/under ABS and behind glove-box works well.
Follow the supplied FD ECU wiring diagram (Z3-b) and spice into required ECU wires. I used 'RPM' wiring, not 'injector duty' wiring.
Attach all sensor and head-unit connectors



STEP 5) Sensor Check

Put everything back together (at least enough to turn ignition on).
Turn ignition on (don't need to start the car yet)
AVC-R logo will scroll across the screen
Go to 'Etc.' section, 'Sensor chk'
My values:
Boost: 1.513V
Throttle: 0.634V (no throttle) / 4.218V (full throttle)
SCSW: OFF
If your values are close, the unit and sensors are working.
Put everything back together - enough to drive car. Complete system checkout is in next section.



TUNING:

Basic tuning will take a few hours, but fine tuning all the parameter will take a while. The tuning instructions in the manual leave a lot to be desired... the translation is fairly poor. Read and re-read this section, about the third time you read it, it does start making sense. And if it seems that a word is missing in a sentence... it IS! I guess the translator didnt know the English word. So I attempt to explain what each of the parameters does along with how to set it.

Also, the boost is displayed in Kg/cm^2... the conversion to PSI is 14.22:1 NOT 14.5 or 14.7 or anything else.

STEP 1) System parameter setup - All in 'Etc.' menu

Car Select:

Cyl=4 (# of rotors * 2)
Spd=4
Thr=Arrow pointing up
Sensor Sel:

Relative1 (leave as default)

Gear judge:

This is how the unit knows what gear you are in. Set as follows:

1st=125
2nd=070
3rd=049
4th=035
5th=025
Read directions to check, but these should be very close for all FDs.

Grph Scale:

These are units for the graphing view modes only.
Bs=1.0kg/cm^2
Ne=8000rpm
Sp=180km/h (good to 112mph)
STEP 2) Mode [A] setup

Boost/Duty
Values which control boost
Set boost at 0.65 (can be anything, but 9psi seems like a safe start)
Set duty cycle at 25%

Scramble:

I did not use this feature

Ne-Point

These are the RPM points at which boost/duty cycle can be individually set - RPM's less than the lowest point use the settings for the lowest point, same for higher than highest point.(It works...) I use: 3000,3500,4000,4500,5000,5500,6000,6500

F/B speed
This is the 'boost control sampling frequency' - i.e. how often the controller checks the boost and corrects it. The basic idea is, if boost consistently overshoots, increase number; if boost oscillates, decrease number. However, I found no perceptible difference in boost pattern, no matter what I set this value to. I used 'start-duty' (described below) to control initial boost spiking. So leave at default setting of 3 for all gears

Learn-gear
This turns 'self-learn' mode on/off, per gear. With this turned on, I found that the unit kept dialing my transition spike back IN (eliminating spike is later). I turned learn-mode OFF in all gear, this is 'X' for all gears. But learn mode may work better in your car... experiment with it.

Start-Duty
This controls initial spiking - i.e. quick no-throttle to full-throttle at 3K. This feature reduces the max boost a little, when going from negative pressure to boost... so it has the desired affect of reducing the initial spike, but not impacting sustained boost. Controlling initial spike is covered later, for now if can be set to 0% for all gears.

STEP 3) Learn to navigate through display & setup screens

If you have not done so already, play with all the display modes, moving around with [prev] & [next], etc. I found that the most useful display mode for tuning was 1-channel, displaying boost, then hit [up] to display a peak-hold value, hit [right] to reset this value, as needed. 2-Channel w/Boost & RPM is also a good mode. Also, hit [prev] & [next] at the same time, to jump between the 'last' display screen and 'last' programming screen - very useful!

STEP 4) Complete system checkout

Start Car
RPMs displayed on unit should match tach exactly
Boost on unit should be close to your analog boost gauge (mine match exactly).
Let the car warm up and then go for a drive... I think the ECU can no longer put the car into 'limp-home' mode, so you need to be extra-careful driving around on a cold engine.

With unit [off] _carefully_ apply power. You should develop 7psi max (0.5 Kgcm). My boost pattern is 7-5-7, dip to 5 before transition and then back to 7 to redline. If there is a problem with the install, i.e. if you didn't disconnect the factory solenoids, the boost may spike above safe levels! I got 16-17psi at 2600rpm. If so recheck everything.
Turn the unit to setting [A] and again _carefully_ apply power (you may hear the solenoid clicking - that's good), but stay below the 4500rpm for now. You should get close to 9psi... if not, increase the duty cycle a little (1-2%), retest, keep increasing until you get to 9psi. If you set the duty cycle too high, the controller will not be able to control boost, and will run higher than 9psi. For 9psi the duty cycle should be around 30%-40%. If the boost is not going above 7psi, there is a problem with the install. Recheck everything.
If all this works, basic controller functions are working.
STEP 5) Fine tuning boost curve

For the tests above, a 'constant/flat' boost and duty cycle curve were set. However, pressing 'next' from the boost and duty cycle allows you to set boost and duty cycle per 500rpm increments.

Setting 1st turbo boost
As done in the test above, set the boost you want to run (per 500rpm as desired). Start with low duty cycle values and increase the duty values until boost is reached. Increase the values SLOWLY, i.e. 1-2%, and retest. Also, pick the lowest value that holds desired boost... +/- 5% will still hold boost, but the higher the value, the higher the initial spike at that RPM.

Controlling the transition spike There are a couple of different ways to dial-out the transition spike. Exactly which method works best depends on your car's setup and the boost level you want to run. Basically, the transition spike is controlled by reducing the duty cycle and/or boost level at 4000 and/or 4500. It may take a small reduction of duty cycle, i.e. 5-10%. If this doesn't work, you may need to greatly reduce the duty cycle, i.e. all the way down to 20-30%. If this doesn't work, you may need to reduce the boost level at 4000 and/or 4500 by 0.05 or 0.1 Kgcm - this should definitely take care of the spike. I had to reduce my boost, but most everyone else I talked to only need to reduce duty cycle. Dialing out the spike perfectly takes a LOT of time...

Setting 2nd turbo boost This is done the same way as the 1st turbo, except adjust duty cycle / boost level from 5000rpm on up.

Controlling initial boost spiking I found that a couple of % reduction of duty cycle eliminates any overshoot. I am running:
1st = 0%
2nd = 0%
3rd = 0%
4th = -1%
5th = -3%


My boost/duty cycle curve (12psi)
3000: 0.85 / 53% (same for 1500, 2000, 2500)
3500: 0.85 / 53%
4000: 0.80 / 45%
4500: 0.75 / 40%
5000: 0.85 / 50%
5500: 0.85 / 55%
6000: 0.85 / 55%
6500: 0.85 / 55% (same for 7000, 7500, 8000)