I'm having trouble dialing in the fuel pressure. It stays solid between 60-70 psi even when adjusting the screw in and out.
When looking at the pics, the left fuel line is the return, middle line is the inlet from the secondary rail, and the vaccum line on the right.
Also, with the FPR mounted on it's side, would this cause improper readings?
Another question, I'm not positive that both the inlet line and gauge are in the correct spot. Should these be switched?

I'm about ready to burn this ****** to the ground and take up a new hobbie. So please, any help is greatly appreciated, Dan

 

So, is it jumpy lower then and above 60-70? You need to physicaly trace teh fuel lines. not just look at them and make shure they are correct. Yes in the pic the left side (bottom of fpr) is the return and the middle section is the gauge and inlet ports. I have no idea if mounting it sideways woud have any effect. Are you setting a bse of 40psi since your single? I don't know if mixing the inlet and gauge port even matters but I know the gauge port is the one that had the plug and isn't tapped all the way.

 

I can get it to stay solid at 61 psi, or if I start messing with the adjustment screw it will sometimes start bouncing back and forth between 60-70. Also, If I give the engine a short rev, it will sometimes shoot up past 100! WTF? lol. I have a walbro 255 for a pump.

Yes, I'm trying to set it for 38-42 for the single conversion, and I'm not sure which port had a plug in it since it was previously installed incorrectly and did not have a plug once I started messing with it.

One more thing, If I turn the car on then turn it off, It will hold pressure and at that point I can adjust the screw and get it down to 40psi. But once the car is on again, it's back up to 60 or so.

 

Don't adjust it whith the car off, preasure bleeds off. The FSM list pressure off vacuum at 36 and with vacuum 38 but most likely you will need 40psi off vacuum. There's some guys that can tell you what pressure whith what mods and what boost, better then I can but you need to list all that.

Take off the extension manifold (UIM) and physically trace the fuel lines and make shure the feed and return are not mixed up. It's a pia but that was my problem when my presure bounced. I had phsyicaly hold the return and follow it never letting go to trace it otherwise it was easy to mix them up. I found out the lines were mixed up. I think this is the first thing you should double check.

 

NPT fittings don't need teflon but the others do. I used the yellow stuff used for gas (higher temp). That would be the next thing to do is make shure there aren't any leaks. Can you try those things then post results?

Do you have another gauge you can use to eliminate it being bad? Water filled ones don't bounce as much but they leak eventually.

 

I have the liquid type gauge.
I took off the inlet hose (coming off the secondary rail) and routed it to a bottle so I could test the feed line. (Turned the key on for a split second). It is in fact hooked up correctly so I'm not sure what else it could be. Everything is sealed up tightly aswell.
I think I'll be ordering the Areomotive A1000 this week and start over from scratch. Thank You for GoRacer, Dan

 

check the fittings you have going into the FPR. if they are too long (physically going too far into the chamber of the FPR), they will cause a restriction that would hike up the pressure. This happened to someone locally two years ago at a tuning session, where the fittings that were used were too long. shoot me a PM if you don't understand what im trying to explain.

 

Thanks I'll try it out tomorrow and get back.

 

ok, i've been staring at your pics and I noticed SS lines. Did you change the flow from the OEM inline series to a dual or paralel setup? It just doesn't look right. It looks like the inlet, the side of the FPR is goint towards towards the return as the line is headed towards the throttlebody. The return line is going strait down and I don't understand that either because in the OEM series the FPR is connected to the rear of the secondary rail towards the firewall. Can you please explain your setup?

Below are examples of OEM inline Seires & parallel...
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/frails.htm
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/pararail.jpg

 

I guess it would be similar to the OEM setup considering I don't have a Y-Splitter nor am I running two feed lines to the FPR. I think the OEM FPD's have been removed too.

I'll try and explain my setup so you better understand it:

1. The fuel line from the tank goes directly into my primary rail(On firewall side).
2. It now exits the front side of the primary rail, entering into the front side of the secondary rail. (Uses stock line and banjo bolt).
3. From the secondary rail(Exiting firewall side) goes directly into the Sard FPR Inlet.
4. It's now exiting the bottom of the FPR(Return) back to tank.

Hope this makes sence. This is okay right?

Also, about the adjustment screw...Which direction is high pressure, and low pressure? ie: Screw all the way in = _____? Screw all the way out= _____?

Thank you, Dan

 

In this pic it looks backwards. The middle of the FPR is the inlet, same as the gauge but in that picture it looks like its the return line.


That sounds right, just doesn't look like it in the picture :csratch:
I don't remember the direction but I do remember when I called their main distributor they said to open it up all the way and then lower it. I have no idea if that makes a difference.

THe large nut is a locking nut and the small one above it is the adjustment nut. Turning the "L" shapped nipple for the vacuum line does nothing. Have you checked if the locking nut is loose?

 

I still say that the -an fittings that go into the FPR (between the 90deg -an and the FPR) could be too long, protruding too far into the valve inside. This would then cause a restriction that mimicks having the adjustment screw being all the way in, when in reality the screw is almost all the way out.

Pull those two fittings and make sure they don't protrude too far in.

 

[QUOTE=GoRacer]In this pic it looks backwards. The middle of the FPR is the inlet, same as the gauge but in that picture it looks like its the return line.


Yeh it looks that way because the return line is in an akward position. But it does run back to the return line from the bottom of the FPR.

 

I'm going to try this later when I have a chance.
Since the threading is tapered, I will grind a portion off the end to shorten the length a bit. I'll let you guys know later tonight. Thanks for the help! Dan