put the motor in without the driver's side motor mount. it'll go in worlds easier.

 

^ cool thanks. I yank it out again this weekend. I broke down and ordered a twin plate clutch. I don't have a trans jack, so i'll be saving money by installing it now. This project is killing me. I need to start selling my lefto over crap. Well, when I get the clutch i'll drop it like it's hot ...in the bay. I still have to fab up the braided oil lines. Especially since the pipe I got rubs the manifold. So, I'll just replace the rubber lines.

 

^ cool thanks. I yank it out again this weekend. I broke down and ordered a twin plate clutch. I don't have a trans jack, so i'll be saving money by installing it now. This project is killing me. I need to start selling my lefto over crap. Well, when I get the clutch i'll drop it like it's hot ...in the bay. I still have to fab up the braided oil lines. Especially since the pipe I got rubs the manifold. So, I'll just replace the rubber lines.

I was hoping to keep the EGR. I had it pluged in for looks. I know the PFC ignores it but it was just for visual but the turbo is too huge and i'll be lucky if it will fit with a block off plate.

 

So where do you stand? Got questions that you aren't answering yourself
Regards,
Crispy

 

^ yeah, did you keep the stock fpr rails and fuel lines? Are you running 850/1300's also?
I still need to finish my dual oil coolers (only have one mounted). I was told my w/g spring is 12lbs, so I have to replace that since that will be my boost control. I wanted to heat coat my manifold but that will be another project at another time. I will heat coat the turbo heat shield for now. I still don't have a bov but had planned on mounting it on the greddy elbow.

 

I did keep the stock rails. Aftermarket rails only needed if you want to run the top feed 1600 secondaries. OEM injectors are side feed. Consider also that if you run an aftermarket fuel rail you will run into an interference problem with the ACV and will have to remove it. I run 550/1300's and at 14/15psi I see 90% duty cycle with and AFR of under 10. It runs very rich. Indicating I have plenty of fuel left to tune out. I do have sitting on my workbench an OEM primary rail machined to take stock 850's with a GM 3 bar map sensor. 850/1300 only really needed for more than 17psi. But you will have to upgrade your stock pressure sesnor as it;s only good to 17psi as well. Then again all this merely depends on how much boost you want to run.

BTW, make sure you have the pump to support those injectors

With a single T 12psi isn't an issue. My suggestion: leave the 12psi spring and don't boost it during your break-in.

Greddy elbow, IC piping, IC end tank, I've seen BOV's put everywhere. I put mine where I had the space, turbo compressor outlet to IC pipe.

Crispy
- far from a single T expert but have yet to pop my motor...my original factory motor

 

^ cool, thanks for the help. Are you running the oem FPR as well?

90% duty @1bar/10AFR? So what would that equal @11.7AFR/1bar? why are you at 10AFR?
I had the primary milled inside and on top allready. I don't understand the fuel calculators. so I don't know how many lbs I can go with 850/1300's @11.7AFR & 276L/H fuel pump.
For now, I will use the waste gate to control boost but I plan on getting the Apexi kit. Even if I never go over 17lbs, overkill gives me a very nice false sense of security. D'oh!

Oh, I also had requested my turbo be polished and heat coated like yours but they didn't have my order organized enough. I was then recomnended not to do it after I received it. I also wanted to chrome heat coat the compressor.

 

What clutch to buy?
Exedy twin plate (can get triple for almost same $)
Cusco twin plate (think it's a carbon mix or only one side of one disc or dunno)
OS Giken racing carbon single (full carbon disc)

 

Rich is safe. Plus finding the time to tune and wring more out of it. The most I plan to tune to is 11.5AFR. I road race and I would consider there to be too many variables to go leaner.

Max Coopers calculator is pretty good:
http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...tem/calcs.html
Using your injectors with a stock port motor at stock fuel pressures you are good for 444rwhp or 555flywheel hp with a 85% inj. duty cycle. Boost is not a factor. Fuel and oxygen make the power.
However at 17psi Max's calc indicates you will need a pump good for 211L/hr which you have well covered if the above is right.

Using the 550/1300's that I have note I'm good for 381rwhp. I feel comfortable with pushing my injectors to 90% for the majical 400rwhp but like you I like the margin...and hence the 850primaries.

Agree. I tested my stock pressure sensor and it was only good up to 16.7 psi. They may vary depending on age and use.

As for my clutch I use an ACT street strip combo with an SR motorsports LWFW. I don't drag race and to date after several years of use I've had no issues.
You sound like you will need more.
HTH,
Crispy

 

I have a street port (not shure if it's small or large). I think Broken9's dyno was 444 fly-HP. It's not posted anymore. How do I figure out how many lbs of boost I can go to equal the 555 fly-hp if he was at 14lbs?

I just special ordered the optional Apexi boost control kit. I was looking at the Blitz i-Color for $650+$450 for the live wide band option but since I can't tune myself I opted to save money. I also special ordered the Exedy twin plate.

 

depending on the turbo (didnt read the whole thread) you have you will get some good gas mileage. Considering that you dont have a heavy foot and boost your car 24/7. The car will feel alot different but youll love it in the end. Plus with all of the twins crap gone it will be a little easier to work on the car now that you can see alot more (more space).


this website will help you out if you get stuck on your instal or if you end up with extra parts


http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/gt35rpage1.htm

 

That is my website
Regards,
Crispy

 

Excellent site....Helped me out alot when I pieced together my single set up, Thanks for taking the time......

 

The parts list and sources listed at the end are very helpful. www.partssystems.com has some nice prices on t-bolt clamps. Thanks