Need help asap on vacumme
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Central Florida
Need help asap on vacumme
I need help. can somone please tell me what other lines i need to remove.. i havnt drove my car in over a week and i am going nuts!!! I was told to take these lines out because of my single turbo, but I am running a pettit ecu and not a stand alone so I hope it doesnt matter... Please let me know which ones are left to be removed.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,430
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
you only should have about 4-8 vacume lines, depend on boost controller and fpr. All those yellow lines need to be removed under the uim. Also, I hope your not planning to use the pettit ecu are you?
im still not sure though. So places have emisions, do you? If not get rid of all that smog and emission stuff. Looking at the pics, you still have long ways to go(removing things). Get some new colors
im still not sure though. So places have emisions, do you? If not get rid of all that smog and emission stuff. Looking at the pics, you still have long ways to go(removing things). Get some new colors
Last edited by 93redFD; Oct 10, 2003 at 06:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
what do I remove? I have no emmisions, and the pettit ecu runs the t78 fine.. it has for the last year. I just wanted to make sure removing this vacumme isnt going to kill that. Other than all those vacume lines, what else should I remove?
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,360
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From: Overland Park, KS
Just looking at you pics i can see one of the emisions devices, the air control valve. There are tons of hose diagrams and pictures of peoples engine that you should be able to see what you need to do.
ok I'm confused by the pics
its hard enough if im over the engine bay to see whats going on
what I can see:
take out the rats nest please.
leave the rack and solenoids plugged in underneath it but the rats nest curved hardlines can come out
then take off all of those yellow lines you have from the solenoids carfully
the lines that used to go through the lim on side to the other you can just remove and dont need to cap the lim since it goes straight though (you know that already)
Make a frigen block off plate for the ACV and take it out of there! If you don't feel like it then unhook every vacuum hose from it and cap it and also that big one that goes out of it. You can unhook the electrical connections for it along with the prespool and wastegate solenoids and the turbo control solenoid connection (on the ACV)
that big coolant line in front of the heater hardline can go directly to the hardline where your TPS connector is sitting. And then cap the 2 places on the throttle body where it went in and out...you may already have it setup like that
the connector next to your trailing plug wire where it goes to the coil. That needs to go to the purge solenoid with a check valve going to one of the nipples on the front of the uim. cap the other 2
cap the oil filler neck nipple if it's not
hook up the connection to the injector
the new coil wiring harness has removed that ground that is between your first trailing coil and leading coil. Maybe try adding some extra wire to that and ground it somewhere else so it's not so close to ark.
im not sure how your fpr is setup but we do for the stock one is run a line from it to the nipple on the lim facing the rear firewall.
make sure you have the omp lines Td off together and going to a vacuum source. its prob really hard to get to the place to hook them up on top of the motor right now. I used to premix any way just in case
what kind of spark plug wires are you running?
sorry you prob knew all that stuff already since you rebuilt your own motor but im just tryin to mention everything i know
here's my diagram for the non seq.
http://plaza.ufl.edu/yanni25/mynonseqsetup2.jpg
out
its hard enough if im over the engine bay to see whats going on
what I can see:
take out the rats nest please.
leave the rack and solenoids plugged in underneath it but the rats nest curved hardlines can come out
then take off all of those yellow lines you have from the solenoids carfully
the lines that used to go through the lim on side to the other you can just remove and dont need to cap the lim since it goes straight though (you know that already)
Make a frigen block off plate for the ACV and take it out of there! If you don't feel like it then unhook every vacuum hose from it and cap it and also that big one that goes out of it. You can unhook the electrical connections for it along with the prespool and wastegate solenoids and the turbo control solenoid connection (on the ACV)
that big coolant line in front of the heater hardline can go directly to the hardline where your TPS connector is sitting. And then cap the 2 places on the throttle body where it went in and out...you may already have it setup like that
the connector next to your trailing plug wire where it goes to the coil. That needs to go to the purge solenoid with a check valve going to one of the nipples on the front of the uim. cap the other 2
cap the oil filler neck nipple if it's not
hook up the connection to the injector
the new coil wiring harness has removed that ground that is between your first trailing coil and leading coil. Maybe try adding some extra wire to that and ground it somewhere else so it's not so close to ark.
im not sure how your fpr is setup but we do for the stock one is run a line from it to the nipple on the lim facing the rear firewall.
make sure you have the omp lines Td off together and going to a vacuum source. its prob really hard to get to the place to hook them up on top of the motor right now. I used to premix any way just in case
what kind of spark plug wires are you running?
sorry you prob knew all that stuff already since you rebuilt your own motor but im just tryin to mention everything i know
here's my diagram for the non seq.
http://plaza.ufl.edu/yanni25/mynonseqsetup2.jpg
out