My A-Spec/M'Trix GT35RS/500R T4 short runner project
04-09-07, 09:22 PM
#201
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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What do you mean by 'possible bearing failure'? Bearings don't just fail, unless starved of oil or through wear and tear/mileage. If you have a fresh motor, you should have fresh bearings.
04-09-07, 10:20 PM
#202
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Was told the shiny sparkly stuff in the oil is possible bearing failure and too look at oil when I drain it next. He emptied a little bit from the pan in to a small cup to show me. It doesn't mean that it's true, he was just telling me to check for fragments when I drain it. Even with the oil leak, it's never gotten lower then 1 quart. I have to wait and see if anything will be covered. At this point i'm not even shure the oil pan leak will be covered under a warranty.
04-11-07, 03:03 PM
#203
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F/S: Considering ofers on my A-Spec GT500R kit 
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...06#post6828106
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...06#post6828106
04-18-07, 06:10 PM
#204
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Shwooo! Well nothing I can do about the compression being lower then when it was built, but I will take that over another rebuild and being down another year. That's for sure!
So I want to thank John for resolving my oil leak (thank you)! I took it in to Mazdatrix this morning and it was traced quickly and done at no expense to me. Now that is the Mazdatrix that I remember and that is what I call customer service (when you take care of the customer "after" you've spent their money).
* RR&R - Said it was my oil filler neck filter ($30)
* Neptunespeed - Said it was the oil pan (free/inspection included with tune)
* XS Engineering - Was told it was "possibly" the oil pan and they ruled out rear main seal.
* Mazdatrix - Found drivers side motor mount bolts loose.
* Me - Why the heck didn't I double check motor mount and oil pan bolt torque?
So I want to thank John for resolving my oil leak (thank you)! I took it in to Mazdatrix this morning and it was traced quickly and done at no expense to me. Now that is the Mazdatrix that I remember and that is what I call customer service (when you take care of the customer "after" you've spent their money).
* RR&R - Said it was my oil filler neck filter ($30)
* Neptunespeed - Said it was the oil pan (free/inspection included with tune)
* XS Engineering - Was told it was "possibly" the oil pan and they ruled out rear main seal.
* Mazdatrix - Found drivers side motor mount bolts loose.
* Me - Why the heck didn't I double check motor mount and oil pan bolt torque?
07-05-07, 09:55 PM
#205
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Oil still leaking even thought motor mounts are torqued.
Engine blow (again)!
...about 6k miles (again) running 11lbs of boost at 7k rpm. (last engine was 10lbs of boost at 7k rpms. Water temp 89 (peak). Boost 87mmhg (peak). Inj Duty 69% (peak) RPM 7142 (peak). So lets see, it's cost me $1k/per $1kmiles or $1/mile. Avg engine lifespan is two months/year.
Mazdfest spot for sale: $100 (cost $160) includes additional $10 gate fee.
Buddy Club Exhaust for sale: New retail is $600 shipped from Japan/sell $250 shpped.
Engine blow (again)!
...about 6k miles (again) running 11lbs of boost at 7k rpm. (last engine was 10lbs of boost at 7k rpms. Water temp 89 (peak). Boost 87mmhg (peak). Inj Duty 69% (peak) RPM 7142 (peak). So lets see, it's cost me $1k/per $1kmiles or $1/mile. Avg engine lifespan is two months/year.
Mazdfest spot for sale: $100 (cost $160) includes additional $10 gate fee.
Buddy Club Exhaust for sale: New retail is $600 shipped from Japan/sell $250 shpped.
07-05-07, 10:18 PM
#207
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Tuned for 13lbs by Netpunespeed in Huntington Beach (was supposed to be 15lbs). I peaked at 87mmhg which is about 11lbs psi. I know it's a corner and/or side seal again. I had a lower number on one of the faces and the other two were the same the last time I did a compression check. Motor has about 6k miles on it (maybe).
07-06-07, 03:18 PM
#211
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Yeah, I'm fucked again. 
Selling my Mazfest spot for Sunday $100 (cost $170).
Cleand bottom of car over teh weekend becouse it was soaked with oil when I had the new exhaust done (was easy to see on lift). underside was soaked with oil again. I tried to torque teh pan and motor mount bolts but couldnt budge them. Had three shops try to trace the oil leak.
Anyhow, fron rotor has ZERO compression. SO the one face that had a bad side seal since it was a lower number then the other two faces chiped a corner seal. Yeah, I know I can't tell untill I open it up but it's the same as last time. That means damage to 2/3 of the engine and at least another $6k.
Selling my Mazfest spot for Sunday $100 (cost $170).Cleand bottom of car over teh weekend becouse it was soaked with oil when I had the new exhaust done (was easy to see on lift). underside was soaked with oil again. I tried to torque teh pan and motor mount bolts but couldnt budge them. Had three shops try to trace the oil leak.
Anyhow, fron rotor has ZERO compression. SO the one face that had a bad side seal since it was a lower number then the other two faces chiped a corner seal. Yeah, I know I can't tell untill I open it up but it's the same as last time. That means damage to 2/3 of the engine and at least another $6k.
07-07-07, 12:56 PM
#215
Engine blow (again)!
...about 6k miles (again) running 11lbs of boost at 7k rpm. (last engine was 10lbs of boost at 7k rpms. Water temp 89 (peak). Boost 87mmhg (peak). Inj Duty 69% (peak) RPM 7142 (peak). So lets see, it's cost me $1k/per $1kmiles or $1/mile. Avg engine lifespan is two months/year.
...about 6k miles (again) running 11lbs of boost at 7k rpm. (last engine was 10lbs of boost at 7k rpms. Water temp 89 (peak). Boost 87mmhg (peak). Inj Duty 69% (peak) RPM 7142 (peak). So lets see, it's cost me $1k/per $1kmiles or $1/mile. Avg engine lifespan is two months/year.
I've been down for year and a half so far
07-07-07, 01:16 PM
#216
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lost mine at 54KM..... oil contamination ...with grit blast residue in the oil duffel pots..... DANG!
a re build should not cost you more then 1 K if you do the stuff your self...seals o rings and a rebuild kit
a re build should not cost you more then 1 K if you do the stuff your self...seals o rings and a rebuild kit
07-07-07, 03:23 PM
#217
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Yeah, a rebuild isn't so bad if you do it your self. However, it will cost more than a grand if the motor needs a new rotor housing and a couple of new plates. If an epex seal broke and chewed things up on the way out, then he's going to have more expenses than rotor and gasket set.
07-07-07, 09:19 PM
#218
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Well, I had low compression to begin with. Almost all 8's but one face was 7.8. This is similar to the last engine. Allthough I was told the engine would just run till its out of breath (compression below 7's). I have ZERO compression on the front rotor. I know I have a chipped corner seal. That means 2/3 of the engine is destroyed (front & middle iron, housing and rotor at the least). Rotor + housing = $1k, center iron $500, gasket kit (or peiced what's needed) $500, Apex seals, springs, etc = $250 or so... probably $3k doing it myself since I wouldn't do the porting or the surfacing. It's possible the 2nd gen e shaft wasnt balanced to the fd rotors, possible different weight rotors not baanced, possible used bearing failed...etc.
Ideally I would would sell the used rear 1/3 and buy RX8 rotors, eshaft, bearings and new FD housings. Send the housings out for kermit coating. Send the irons and the rotors to the arizona place for thier coatings. 1pc OEM seals since NRS is too expensive.
Anyhow, since I can't rebuild it right now I don't want to open the engine and expose it to humidity (or worse). If the apex seal broke, theirs no way the center iron is good.
No, engine oil pan brace is not installed. I also need to replace the eurothane motor mounts. I want the Attain solid mounts. I still have to install all the gauges, properly mount the radiator and oil coolers and put the A/C back in.
Ideally I would would sell the used rear 1/3 and buy RX8 rotors, eshaft, bearings and new FD housings. Send the housings out for kermit coating. Send the irons and the rotors to the arizona place for thier coatings. 1pc OEM seals since NRS is too expensive.
Anyhow, since I can't rebuild it right now I don't want to open the engine and expose it to humidity (or worse). If the apex seal broke, theirs no way the center iron is good.
No, engine oil pan brace is not installed. I also need to replace the eurothane motor mounts. I want the Attain solid mounts. I still have to install all the gauges, properly mount the radiator and oil coolers and put the A/C back in.
07-08-07, 12:29 AM
#219
That place in Arizona is turblown engineering, and if your getting everything done the right way why are you skipping on the seals (the most important part). I think coating the housings and irons are pointless, especially if you are using NEW housings and everything else internally. Get the NRS ceramics
07-08-07, 02:38 PM
#220
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It would take me a year to have enough money to do NRS seals and everything I want for a LeMans type engine. Maybe ditch my turbo and run twin Tial GT25's with dual exhaust.
At this point realizing with the money I have spent I could have bought a Porsche or a Z06 or enough R1's to sponsor myself to MotoGP. Having an engine for two months a year and never making it to a race track (1 autox doesnt count) isn't acceptable. Either I build the engines myself from now on or sell the car. I should be at Buttonwillow right now on my 3rd session having fun and driving with the A/C on. Instead i'm at home watching Ferrari's on Speed channel.
At this point realizing with the money I have spent I could have bought a Porsche or a Z06 or enough R1's to sponsor myself to MotoGP. Having an engine for two months a year and never making it to a race track (1 autox doesnt count) isn't acceptable. Either I build the engines myself from now on or sell the car. I should be at Buttonwillow right now on my 3rd session having fun and driving with the A/C on. Instead i'm at home watching Ferrari's on Speed channel.
07-08-07, 07:08 PM
#221
It would take me a year to have enough money to do NRS seals and everything I want for a LeMans type engine. Maybe ditch my turbo and run twin Tial GT25's with dual exhaust.
At this point realizing with the money I have spent I could have bought a Porsche or a Z06 or enough R1's to sponsor myself to MotoGP. Having an engine for two months a year and never making it to a race track (1 autox doesnt count) isn't acceptable. Either I build the engines myself from now on or sell the car. I should be at Buttonwillow right now on my 3rd session having fun and driving with the A/C on. Instead i'm at home watching Ferrari's on Speed channel.
At this point realizing with the money I have spent I could have bought a Porsche or a Z06 or enough R1's to sponsor myself to MotoGP. Having an engine for two months a year and never making it to a race track (1 autox doesnt count) isn't acceptable. Either I build the engines myself from now on or sell the car. I should be at Buttonwillow right now on my 3rd session having fun and driving with the A/C on. Instead i'm at home watching Ferrari's on Speed channel.
07-18-07, 06:15 PM
#222
I have just finished reading your entire thread... You sound to have about the same luck as I have had when it comes to RX's... but fact is I cant see myself loving something else as much... I would wait if I had to, and build it myself... right, 1 time. no questions asked. Dont give up... Use everything that has happened as a learning experience... I wish you good luck.
- John
- John
07-18-07, 07:04 PM
#223
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Dare I say...LS1 swap?
I know that after this engine goes, my car will never again see a rotary engine. Just think of all the trouble you have been through. All because of a finnicky engine and a lack of credible shops to work on them (great shops are out there, just very difficult to find and by the time you do, you are so frustrated that it doesn't matter).
Frustrating situation. I am sorry things have gotten so bad. Hopefully your luck improves in the near future!
I know that after this engine goes, my car will never again see a rotary engine. Just think of all the trouble you have been through. All because of a finnicky engine and a lack of credible shops to work on them (great shops are out there, just very difficult to find and by the time you do, you are so frustrated that it doesn't matter).
Frustrating situation. I am sorry things have gotten so bad. Hopefully your luck improves in the near future!
07-18-07, 07:42 PM
#224
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Yeah, I'm fucked again. Selling my Mazfest spot for Sunday $100 (cost $170).
Cleand bottom of car over teh weekend becouse it was soaked with oil when I had the new exhaust done (was easy to see on lift). underside was soaked with oil again. I tried to torque teh pan and motor mount bolts but couldnt budge them. Had three shops try to trace the oil leak.
Anyhow, fron rotor has ZERO compression. SO the one face that had a bad side seal since it was a lower number then the other two faces chiped a corner seal. Yeah, I know I can't tell untill I open it up but it's the same as last time. That means damage to 2/3 of the engine and at least another $6k.
Selling my Mazfest spot for Sunday $100 (cost $170).Cleand bottom of car over teh weekend becouse it was soaked with oil when I had the new exhaust done (was easy to see on lift). underside was soaked with oil again. I tried to torque teh pan and motor mount bolts but couldnt budge them. Had three shops try to trace the oil leak.
Anyhow, fron rotor has ZERO compression. SO the one face that had a bad side seal since it was a lower number then the other two faces chiped a corner seal. Yeah, I know I can't tell untill I open it up but it's the same as last time. That means damage to 2/3 of the engine and at least another $6k.
07-19-07, 08:14 AM
#225
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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You're making a lot of incorrect assumptions here.
Firstly, compression in the 8s and 7s isnt considered low.
Secondly, if you just chipped an apex corner seal, you may get away with just one gouged rotor housing and that's it. Your irons should be fine.
But, if you're getting zero compression on all three rotor faces, then you wont really know the damage until you open up the motor.
If you want to pull the motor yourself and send it to me, I can build it for you for a reduced price and get you on the road for a helluva lot cheaper than the prices you're quoting. I feel bad for all the bullshit you've went through, thus my offer. PM me if interested.
Firstly, compression in the 8s and 7s isnt considered low.
Secondly, if you just chipped an apex corner seal, you may get away with just one gouged rotor housing and that's it. Your irons should be fine.
But, if you're getting zero compression on all three rotor faces, then you wont really know the damage until you open up the motor.
If you want to pull the motor yourself and send it to me, I can build it for you for a reduced price and get you on the road for a helluva lot cheaper than the prices you're quoting. I feel bad for all the bullshit you've went through, thus my offer. PM me if interested
.Well, I had low compression to begin with. Almost all 8's but one face was 7.8. This is similar to the last engine. Allthough I was told the engine would just run till its out of breath (compression below 7's). I have ZERO compression on the front rotor. I know I have a chipped corner seal. That means 2/3 of the engine is destroyed (front & middle iron, housing and rotor at the least). Rotor + housing = $1k, center iron $500, gasket kit (or peiced what's needed) $500, Apex seals, springs, etc = $250 or so... probably $3k doing it myself since I wouldn't do the porting or the surfacing. It's possible the 2nd gen e shaft wasnt balanced to the fd rotors, possible different weight rotors not baanced, possible used bearing failed...etc.
Ideally I would would sell the used rear 1/3 and buy RX8 rotors, eshaft, bearings and new FD housings. Send the housings out for kermit coating. Send the irons and the rotors to the arizona place for thier coatings. 1pc OEM seals since NRS is too expensive.
Anyhow, since I can't rebuild it right now I don't want to open the engine and expose it to humidity (or worse). If the apex seal broke, theirs no way the center iron is good.
No, engine oil pan brace is not installed. I also need to replace the eurothane motor mounts. I want the Attain solid mounts. I still have to install all the gauges, properly mount the radiator and oil coolers and put the A/C back in.
Ideally I would would sell the used rear 1/3 and buy RX8 rotors, eshaft, bearings and new FD housings. Send the housings out for kermit coating. Send the irons and the rotors to the arizona place for thier coatings. 1pc OEM seals since NRS is too expensive.
Anyhow, since I can't rebuild it right now I don't want to open the engine and expose it to humidity (or worse). If the apex seal broke, theirs no way the center iron is good.
No, engine oil pan brace is not installed. I also need to replace the eurothane motor mounts. I want the Attain solid mounts. I still have to install all the gauges, properly mount the radiator and oil coolers and put the A/C back in.