FD Rey

Rich, that turbo is decently big and it has plenty efficiency at higher boost levels. I wouldn't go anything less then 20psi

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I've only had a base tune (321rwhp@10lbs). When I got my car out of the shop, the fuel lines were hooked up wrong and was missing a block off plate fro the acv air pipe so the air/fuel was extermely iradic and fuel pressure wouldn't hold. Looking at the glass 1/2 full, luckily the engine didn't blow on the dyno and my pump did not burnout!

Unfortunately, I don't have the funds to drive to texas to retune with Steve at Gotham Racing. I am however trying to schedule with XS Engineering but am awaiting their dyno install/hookup in to their new location. If I have to i'll go to Signal Auto but that's in LA county and XS is about 10 min from me. I will retune at 14-16lbs and post the results, but I am not expecting more then 401rwhp @1bar.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Here is my new 19row oil cooler setup. I will change it again later on getting it closer to the cover and replacing ss with nylon lines.



Here is my metalic cat I had welded in to my strait pipe. The little bends make it a tight fit. I will test to see if it's enough, otherwise I may add a second one. If it is, then I will add a custom muffler next to it since the system is still not quiet enough to be luxary.



Here is some damage to the motor mount from too much heat. No, it is "NOT" normal for the down pipe to be glowing devil red hot...damnit!!!

SAMIboarder

iTrader: (2)

lookin pretty good man. can you give more info on the oil cooler set-up? like what is that silver piece in the 1st pic? and brand?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Top pic is the Mocal thermostat. From front cover I have Earls metric to -AN adapter (with copper washer) then a Earls 90 elbow F to M, then F to F coupler to cooler. On the return side I have a Earls F to M hose adapter to SS braided line. I really don't like SS. I know such a small run won't make much of a difference in weight but when that stuff rubs, it does damage. You can get some cold shrink tape from Eastwood and wrap the hose, then secure it so it doesn't move though.

I will be getting rid of all the red fittings and only using black and blue or silver if I have to. The lines will be replaced with light weight nylon braided racing hose. I prefer Earls fittings, since they fit very well and are easy to get on and off as well as swivel. Oh, the hard lines to the cooler are titanium.

Broken09

iTrader: (1)

Things are looking really good. Definitely interested to see how it performs when all is said and done.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I will update the results as soon as I can get her dyno tuned again.

Smog test problems: Will need to route ACV and air pump vent to intake as well as BOV. Will need to hide FPR and remove gauge. If that's not enough, will have to make carb stickers and/or paint anything shiny (anodize w/g black). Oh, and may have to glue on or screw on EGR for looks.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

My first SCCA SoloII event. 1=114, 2=104, 3=94 (no practice). Did an instructor run and he did 74 (in my car). They put me in SM2 with modified Z06, Subies, Porsche and a Ferrari Modena (I think) and he got the best times. I thought it was hard with my setup. I think my CRX would have been more fun. My instructor did a 64 in his RX8. There were two loud as Civics and I was worried about the noise limit. So now I have to think about getting 4.77 gears or switching to .85 A/R cause I need more low end. Have not retuned yet, still 10lbs.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

I thought that car sounded powerful...

I feel like such a jerk for not stopping by to meet you, but it was pretty cold outside. My car was the red 3rd Gen with stock wheels, parked by the entrance. My club was hosting the event, so I didn't drive on Sunday. If your instructor's name was Jason Isley, he's one of the fastest autocross drivers in the country. He's won BS for the last two years in his RX-8.
I talked to the guy with the black primered FD; he said it's now got 180,000 miles on the original engine. I told him I've never heard of a 13BREW lasting so long, but he said he knew the original owner, so it might be true.


-s-

PS, you need a lot more tire for the amount of power you're making! I've got 245's on stock rims at stock power levels, and my engine outpowers my tires pretty easily around tight corners. Most of the RX-8 autocrossers are fitting 285's under their fenders, and they're only dyno'ing at ~200hp to the wheels.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Oh, well someone said hi to me liked they new me but I didn't recognize them. I remember your car. I met the guy with the primered FD when he got pulled of course because of a coolant leak. I think there was another FD to but I think they were all in stock class. and I was placed in SM2. I didn't really meet anyone else. I mostly slept cause I was awake all night at a g/f's house and didn't sleep at all.

Yeah, I think that was the instructor (really nice guy). He had the tires smoking (literaly) on my car "lol".

Well my rims are mismarked because I measured bead to bead and they are 9's & 10's instead of 8's & 9's but the offset won't allow me to go wider on the rubber. I will change the front fenders and roll the rears, hopefully soon.

I'm hoping to get some actuall practice. It shure is different then kart autocross which I never let go of the gas or use the brakes. I've come in 3rd racing my GSXR 750 and 125 MotoX back in the day, even 1st on BMX as a kiddie so I guess I just need lessons and experience. I'm trying to get in the next practice session. Maybe we could meet up then.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

My car belongs in SM2 also (PC680 battery), so I'll run that whenever I'm driving on Sundays. There's another FD owner whose car belongs in SM2 also. Don't worry about trophies until you've been doing it for a year or so. It's tough to be competitive without race tires, but I wouldn't worry about tires until you've had some more practice.

The mods that are allowed in different classes are weird sometimes: you can run race slicks and $1000 shocks in the 'Stock' class, but a street-tired car with aftermarket springs and an upgraded rear sway bar gets bumped up to Street Prepared (which is a faster class). A blowoff valve puts you straight in to Street Mod or SM2 (both are faster than Street Prepared).


PM'd you about the next event.

-scott-

dubulup

HOLY ****!! The instructor ran the lap 30s quicker in his RX8?!?!!? That is some serious driving! And still even 10s faster (in the 8) when running your car.

Glad you finally got all the bugs worked out and your car is solid enough to run some events! I'm curious as to when you go test emissions

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I've done emissions allready, but can't comment on that. I will give it another try before I give up on my CA single version. I can send it back to A-Spec for them to copy for other guys. Basically the exhaust manifold has go go a wee bit lower to clear the EGR (unless you have a '95). I would like it to go back an inch or so to where the compressor and turbine snails are inbetween the runners of the intake manifold and it will clear the air pump. A aluminum intake tube will have a notch indented in it to clear the ear of the air pump allowing use of oem bracket and position. That tube will go to a M2 style box as well as all the other tubes in order to make it legal. If it retails all the connections and air pump and whatever is recirculated then it's legal and does not need CARB #. The BOV will also need to recirculate, so I may have to fit it inside the box. If A-SPec or anyone wants to go forward with my idea, feel free.

BOV bumps you into the faster class "lol". thanks Scott

dubulup

^damn son sorry to hear that...I think you'd be better off selling the car and buying a fairly stock FD...or move; considering all the money you have tied up in this machine.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I have two ways around that problem, which is why me getting ripped off so bad for the air pump bracket from the hack shop behind M'Trix is just f'd up. Instead of helping me and getting more rotary business, he chose to take advantage of me even when I explicitly stated I do not have to have it done. Moreover, I had to have his work redone because it was ****. I can't stand people like that!!!

I've spent way too much money and time to sell the car. I will enjoy the **** out of it as much as I can.

ANyhow, i've allways been more worried about being impounded then emissions. I was willing to do my share to help CA guys wanting to go single but it's such bullshit, it's easier and cheaper to go around it.

If you have a sniffer emissions test, I would recomend dual (in series) metal cat's or one long Apexi metalic cat. Denatured alcohol will lower HC & CO but it will raise NOx. Sea Foam in tank and intake manifold. I'm not worried about testing (I can pass) but as I said, I was willing to do it correctly even at a high cost. I'm not as willing anymore.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Here's my tune results:

Steve Kan base tune (strait pipe) = 321rwhp @ 10lbs

NeptuneSpeed base dyno (cat & muffler in mid pipe) = 255rwhp mustang dyno @ 10lbs
- loss of approximately 21rwhp for Moroso Spiralflow muffler, so 305rwhp?

NeptuneSpeed .9bar tune = 259rwhp / estimated correction = 309rwhp +21hp loss = 330rwhp @ 13.23lbs. PFC reads 13lbs. Tuner was afraid to go to 15lbs because of 6.7:1 compression on brand new rebuild with 5k miles on it.

Other things done for flate tune rate:
checked compression
fixed apexi boost controler (shop installed wrong and was never working)

Additional work:
oil change
spark plug change (all 9's)

Extras:
free sodas
free lunch

If someone knows how to do the Mustang Dyno corrections better, please post. thanks.

So now I have below 7 compression which means it needs to be rebuilt again. The same front rotor side seal as the last engine that blew at 1k miles. The engine had almost all 8's (some 7.9, some 8.0, some 8.1) when built except for one was 7.8 and now 5k miles later:
Front .75, .67, .79 / Rear .75, .73, .71

Also my oil pan is leaking about 1/2 quart per day. Could this cause the low compression? I fill about 4oz of water per day to but I don't see champagne bubbles.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

GoRacer, a couple of quick things:

your compression is being measure in bar most likely, as in 6.7 bar. The 6.7:1 is incorrect and would refer to compression ration, which is entirely different. FDs have a static compression ratio of 9.0:1.

Also, when you list .75, .67, etc, you have the decimal places in the wrong spot, I believe you mean 7.5, 6.7, 7.9/7.5, 7.3, 7.1

Leaking oil pan has nothing to do with compression. I would however check in your pfc etc menu to ensure that your oil metering pump voltage is within spec and that your omp is indeed working.

If you're not seeing champagne bubbles I wouldn't be concerned about your coolant seals, it could that you have a pinhole in one of your AST hoses.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

^ Thanks Goodfella's,

You have no idea how upset I was. I looked like a cartoon with a red face and steam shooting out of my ears. I just copied off of my receipt and he wrote it in k (0.67k). He used the Mazda Rotary compression tester and not a piston version. He still told me he was afraid to tune to 1bar. He only tuned to 13lbs. I had 321rwhp @10lbs and now have 330rwhp @13lbs?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Is this a ported mazdatrix motor? do they offer warranties? I'd bring it back to them. I wouldn't automatically place blame on the builder, it could be that the car has another problem (like a faulty omp).

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Any porting by them is considered a race engine. They do not warranty race engines. Rotary Reliabilty & Racing warrantys race engines if not raced. Pineapple Racing warranties race engines except for bltent neglent and abuse. Should the oil pan be covered? ...yes, I was leaking in the shop before I picked it up. It was pointed out to me in the shop by my mechanic. I was told it was fixed when I picked up the car. If you look at my reply above yours I do not mention the shop name nor any blame. Whas I pissed, **** yeah! Could oil have got under my tires on the race track or on the freeway? Could oil have cought on fire?

I did not want to get in to this again but I think it needs to be clear:

1st engine I had to have done and cars 3rd engine which was a Mazda reman died from o-ring failure was done at Mazdatrix because I was very happy with their service, John is a good and honest mechanic. I was refered to Rotary Reliability by John when he was too busy to take in my car. I had problems with that shop. To be fair they also stayed late past closing for me and Luie allways took me in without an appointment when I needed help. So, you can say I had both good and bad experiences. I went back to M'Trix because becuase John could diagnose problems on a twin turbo setup faster which meant less costly. He allways did excellent work on my twin setup. I refered people to him all the time and praised his work in front of customers and if you look at the title and beginning of my thread it shows how proud of him and the shop I was, doesn't it?

Here is wehre the problems began:

My A-Spec kit did not fit. That made him loose time which is money and most likely the owner wasn't happy other cars were waiting. I told him to take whatever time needed as long as I got it back for tuning a week before sevenstock.

Kit came back but the car was still riddled with problems but with my confidence in him I didn't see anything he couldn't resolve. Apexi optional boost kit - they are in orange and have tech support. He got everything connected ok except for the wastegate plug, it was plugged in to something else and not precontrol. This was fixed by Neptunespeed yesterday. Sard - FPR, yes it's not an Aeromotive but it connects exactly the same. I was shure he could make no mistakes so I gave Sard **** and they thought I was going to kill them. I didn't mean to make the guy shake like that, just was upset. So I bought a 2nd one. Was told the 2nd one was bad to. I asked if they could borrow an Aeromotive. The fuel problem was never resolved. It turned out the fuel lines were crossed. I still can't beleive it, cause that's a rookie mistake and not normally overlooked by a pro. That could have cost me an engine. Was I wrong to post it? So now my car gets put aside becuase I need the FIMC pipes fabed up and I wanted to retain the air pump. I did not need to, just wanted to. I was going to pull my car and tow to my fabricator but I couldn't get a bill to remmove it. I used the shop behind. I posted a thread in west section asking about the shop. All replied satisfied with work but extremely overpriced. He told me if I paid him he would do it the next day and the day after John could finish. That was worth extra money to me. I paid him but he lied. He never touched it for a week. I went there every single day and he said tomorrow. He could not figure out the air pump bracket so I showed him Crispy's. I said that's not what I want but it's a picture so you can see the clearance with it mounted and get an idea. He just duplicated the exact same thing and told me it took 12 hours for the air pump bracket alone. For the pipes I used an Efini y-pipe crossover pipe and asked to duplicate the OEM S curves. He said it couldn't be done because of the air pump. ok that's fine but I still asked to have the flanges retained and welded on the compressor snail but they were cut off instead. The pipe does not meet the FMIC flush and needs a hump coupler. The other side the pipe is off by about an inch or two and the bov was at the wrong angle I explicetly asked over and over again to do. That side was extremely badly done and still needs to be redone by a professional. I have to use hump couplers just to hole the pipes on or else they would pop off on each end, rediculous! I afterwards had the air pump bracket made in an hour by a professional and its not a fixed position. I exlicitly told him I did NOT need the air pump but wanted it if it could be done. There was no need to rip me off thinking I had to have it. Maybe he shouldn't let his wife make the bill when she is not there most of the time. She was out spending my money! So I pay $1300, over priced by $1000! I did so that John could get back on the car the next day as I was told and so there would be no problems between shops. I knew John felt bad since he recomended me, so I paid and did not cuase any problems so it wouldnt be taken out on him or the shop. ok, so my car gets put aside and sits for about four months. I come by every single week and sometimes two or three times a day to check on the progress but it's in the back witht he windows open and in the sun. My car has allways been garaged by me and previous owner. So every week i'm told It will be done after the current car but there is allways another current car, one after another. Ok, so I figure the owner is pushing him to get more cars done and since mine is a problem child that's the reason. SO now we are down to one week before tuning and sevenstock. I ask politely if he is pissed at me or what is wrong. I am only told he has to get other cars done. Two days before tune I pick up the car. I had allready paid a deposit in cash two months back thinking that would let the owner let him work on it again, but no that didn't work. Everything was done I was told. The clutch was not adjusted. It did not go in to gear. That could have been resolved with a phone call to Exedy. The fuel system was never fixed. I was told he couldn't resolve it but tracing the fuel lines would have. We both thought the boost control was good but I was running off of wastegate spring. I was told the oil leak was fixed but it's still leaking. I was told when I got the engine and it had all 8's that the compression woudl get better but it got worse. One side seal is 6.7k now. I have used dyno oil (changed every two weeks) and premixed red line 2-stroke racing since I got the car back.

So am I blaming for the 1st engine? No, could have been something I did. I was told it was base map with a street port even thoug it was during break in. My eccentric bolt was never torqued but John offered to come to my house and fix it. Good and bad? I had three flatened side seals and a broken corner seal. Could it have been a lean condition? Sure, that's why I had them rebuild the second engine.

So what am I pissed at now? I beleive that if my car didn't sit in the parking lot for an additional 4 months that John could have easily resolved all the issues including the oil leak.

So will they warranty a faulty side seal on a street ported engine? Well I have not proved a faulty side seal other then compression numbers.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I called Mazdatrix but can't get an appointment. I was told to call back in a week or two but they have allways been like that, so no reason to think anything of it. Kyle gave me the possiblity of Apex seal warpage for he compression loss but was told they don't use gaskets, so it's a low possibilty of the oil pan leaking.

Went back to Neptunespeed for him to clean up my map but all he did was adjust the boost to .9 and the duty to 40. He beleives my low compression or rather the lowest # is from a bad side seal.

Went to XS Engineering but their soonest appointement is the middle of April. I think i'll have a heart attack if I have to rebuild again. I've had the car for 7 years, drove for 7 months and spent $70k. Maybe 7 is craps and I shouldn't roll the dice anymore.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

New Revolution AST installed which replaces the filler neck.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

That's a pretty trick looking piece .

Have you considered an aquamist water injection kit? If you're worried about motor longevity it would be a good choice.

SAMIboarder

iTrader: (2)

go racer, that's sweet. where'd you buy?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I thought about water injection but had not planned on it untill my engine and PFC tune had been sorted out as well as a working A/C. I have been trying to look in to AEM EMS as well only because it retains knock retard functionality (as well as the oil metering pump). I would think if Apexi makes a new PFC version they would add this vital function being our engines are so extremely vulnerable to knock. Supposedly the lastest J&S unit works with rotary engines but I want simple and intigrated.

Revolution AST was purchased from www.RHDJapan.com . It seams to work extremely well so far but today isn't a fair comparison since it was cold like 80's maybe even 70's and we had slight rain or drissle (humid moisture for those in WA state).