The stock knock retard is worthless. I would stick with your power fc----how many FDs do you see running the aem ecu? It's supposed to be a great option for some piston-engined cars, but that doesn't mean jack when it comes to our cars.

 

I think I worded that wrong.

Apexi does not retain the oem knock retard nor does it include it's own version. AEM does includes its own version of knock control which retards timing on both the leading and trailing. I beleive J&S latest version only retards the leading. They have training for tuners with certification. That doesn't sound like much but take my Viper alarm installed from good guys. Installer has 12yrs experience and considered one of the best. I went back every month for two years and he still couldn't get it right on my truck. They have certified installers that are trained on my new F150 and other cars so that doesn't happen. I should have went to one of those shops instead! True I can not find enough people that have AEM. I only know of two. One tuned at RR&R and one tuned at Tri-Point. SO still only a handfull with AEM (that I know of) but there is one local certified tuner. I beleive Steve Kan tunes it as well as Tri-Point but don't know if they are certified or not. In japan there are top tuners with the Apexi excell software supported by Apexi. Here tuners have to use datalogic and are not trained.

 

I had to tow my car home last friday. It went to work fine but when I went to lunch it bogged when I went in gear and stepped on the gas. It felt like a blown engine. The IACV was buzzing badly. I tested it and it was 11.5v which is ok but becuase of the noise I ordered a new one which tested the same and still made noise, D'oh! So I swapped plugs, the new ones in there were fouled very badly with only a few hundred miles on them. That got rid of the noise but it still stumbles badly and dies. I bought a compression tester from harbor frieght. They had one with an extension so about 24" total and I can see it on the windshield. I zip tied the release button and removed the valve. I called Mazdatrix for help since the FSM didn't make sense (it states to remove the ignitor and something else I couldn't find). John told me to just remove main fuse, but with it removed you can't see the rpm's. Anyhow, with a cold engine I got all 4's. :Crying:

Tomorrow I will try with a warm engine as stated in the manual and I need to test the TPS. Unfortunately my tester doesn't go under 5v and the manual doesn't say how to test (which wires). If my engine isblown again, I don't know what to do.

 

A warm engine will yield lower numbers than a cold engine----are you keeping the throttle floored while cranking?

Pull the EGI fuse instead of the main fuse, then you'll be able to see rpms.

These engines just don't blow for no reason----something isn't adding up. How many miles are on the rebuild? If it is indeed blown I'd bring it back to the builder for a complete teardown and examination.

 

I ran a can of sea foam incase the side seal were sticking. Luckily no one called the fire dept like the did with my CRX. Took the dog for a walk (about 10min). Tried compression check and got all 4's (throttle peddle down). This didn't make any sense to me, so I took off the zip tie hold the pressure release button to see what the peak was since it's too fast see exact numbers. Now I am getting 6's or 80-85psi (throttle down), wtf? I thought I was supposed to hold the button so I could see each face bounce? It's not holding at peak. Maybe since I had allready removed the shrader valve the button i useless?

I can feel my hairs turning grey as I type and I have defribulator on the wall next to the fire extinguisher. Next step is to mess with the TPS. I may just have to buy a new one since my tester won't go under 5v and the FSM doesn't say how to test it anyhow.

 

Well, I was going to return the IACV but I didn't want to lie since I did mount it. I could have cleaned it, it had no miles on it but I would have felt guilty. So, anyone want to buy a used one? TPS on the way. I think I may be paying overnight shipping from riverside, yikes.

O2 sensor, what's up with the prices? Dealer retail $300, Mazdacomp $100, O2sensor.com $60 and all are Nipendenso.

 

Well, I was going to return the IACV but I didn't want to lie since I did mount it. I could have cleaned it, it had no miles on it but I would have felt guilty. So, anyone want to buy a used one? TPS on the way. I think I may be paying overnight shipping from riverside, yikes.

O2 sensor, what's up with the prices? Dealer retail $300, Mazdacomp $100, O2sensor.com $60 and all are Nipendenso.

 

You can ensure your TPS is giving the proper voltage in the sensor/switch menu of the Power FC Commander. Easiest way around to test it:

 

Thanks! VTA1 = .20-1.15v & VTA2 = .33-2.57v so good thing I'll have another one tomorrow.

Also O2S is blinking .01/.03v i'd have to look it up but guess it's the O2 sensor and I have that on order for o2sensor.com. I didn't want to pay $100 Mazdacomp if their both nipendenso.

AIRT is blinking 2.13/21.4v if that's air temperature then I guess that could fluctuate.

 

If O2 feedback is turned off on the Power FC, it doesn't matter is the sensor is bad.

Jack

 

I installed the new one several times. The wire harness is brand new even though the clip is broken. When installed and plugged in both VTA's are highlighted. The old one was never highlighted but showed low numbers. THis one doesn't show any numbers. I made shure the pins went inside the cups on the TPS by pointing down then rotating. It changes the throttle position by rotating, so I don't see how it could be wrong.

 

Well I installed it wrong since the pins (or whatver they are called) are supposed to be on the backside of those square cup things. I no longer have VTA1&2 highlighted but I still get the buzzing from the IACV. So I will have to reinstall the TPS again tomorrow making shure that both pins are behind the cups and not just one. The engine still sounds fine at idle but feels blown with gas. If I push the peddle down it stumbles like it's getting flooded. If I floor it then it shuts off.

 

The buzzing from the IACV is rare but does not appear to affect performance. It happened to me a few years ago when I switched to a PFC. Switched to a spare used IACV and it went away. I posted back then asking about the problem and got no replies. Since then I've had 2 or 3 people PM me to see how I resolved the issue.

Jack

 

^OK LOL, how did you resolve it? I bought a new IACV and it still buzzes. So your second one has never buzzed since you switched it? If that's the case, then my new one is bad.

Did you mess with your TPS at all in the process of swapping the IACV?

 

After reading through all your material I really feel your pain. I too have a vehicle that seems plagued with problems, only difference is that I am just letting it sit and gather dust so that I don't lose all my money on it (or have a heart attack). I feel it is such a waste to have my RX7 just sitting there collecting dust but I cannot afford to spend the kind of money that Goracer has spent. I may just wind up selling it as is.

 

Well, I have no idea what's wrong with it. I can jab the throttle up and down and it seems fine that way but if I slowly depress it then it bogs and stalls. I've tried the TPS all the way forward, middle and back and then in between but it still bogs. If it's rotated too much in one way the IACV buzz's. I've tried reinstalling the TPS about 5 times. Maybe it will only hold compression on idle? Maybe the rear main seal is bad and that's where the oil is comming from? Maybe that's the cause of the low compression? Maybe the apex seal springs are squished and under load they don't flex out?

 

I can get the TPS within closed to open specs but fully closed I don't understand and can't do. I decided to insert the TPS strait on instead of trying to rotate it on. I have a smooth idle. I started with the adjustment screw ondert he elbow all the way open (counterclockwise) and then had to close it all the way to lower the idle. I was able to get it down to 800rpm allthough I was trying for 750rpm's.

So idle is fine or acceptable as well as TPS voltage. Both the TPS and IACV are brand new. I thought the car was fixed but it still bogs or shuts off when you depress on the gas pedal.

My tools didn't arrive with my new O2 sensor and there is no way to use an open or crescent wrench. Hopefully I can find my old O2 socket tomorrow but I doubt it.

 

Sounds like you need some hands-on help. Anyone local to you that knows their way around an FD?

 

Nope, no friends locally I can count on. I have a fabricator that can solce or build anything, well piston wise but i'd still have to tow the car there an unless he is slow i'd have to hand over some cashola, assuming he would even squeeze me in. I do have an appt for XS Engineering though in about a week or two.

I just received my new Sard RJ (race) FPR and was stoked because the bracket holes lined up perfect with the AWS holes. Since it's blocked off, I thought it was great. But it won't with with the ACV, D'oh! So, since with all my custom work and pissing thousands of dollars and still having to go around smog, I think it's time to ditch the ****!

 

 

Nope, no local friends. I do have a fabricator within an hour but his only rotary experience is with mine and he normally only does extremely high $ work.

I just received my new Sard RJ (race) FPR and was stoked because the bracket holes lined up perfect with the AWS holes. Since it's blocked off, I thought it was great. But it won't with with the ACV, D'oh! So, since with all my custom work and pissing thousands of dollars and still having to go around smog, I think it's time to ditch the ****!

 

I still can't get the TPS set correctly. I checked the oil feed line for the oil leak but it was tight and dry. I think it is the pan because the rear bolts have droplets covering them and I don't see how oil from anotehr path would get all those bolts wet. It's possible my apex seal springs are compressed and bad. I have an appointment on monday with xs engineering and will tow my car there. So for now I am changing my setup a bit and while i'm in to it I will check to see if I find fuel. I have extra o-rings if the primary's are leaking. I had planned on eliminating the FPD but I don't have a bypass right now, so next time.

 

I still can't get the TPS set correctly. I checked the oil feed line for the oil leak but it was tight and dry. I think it is the pan because the rear bolts have droplets covering them and I don't see how oil from anotehr path would get all those bolts wet. It's possible my apex seal springs are compressed and bad. I have an appointment on monday with xs engineering and will tow my car there. So for now I am changing my setup a bit and while i'm in to it I will check to see if I find fuel. I have extra o-rings if the primary's are leaking. I had planned on eliminating the FPD but I don't have a bypass right now, so maybe next time.

Oh, I removed the air pump and the belt I used was a 29" Gates. None of the stores have Dayco in stock. I tried a 31" becasue that's what Pettit shows on their web site but it's too long. A 30" should work with the Greddy pully kit but no one lists Dayco in that size even though they do on their site. Gates has a 30" or almost, their belts are slightly shorter by 1/4" which is actually better. I am using their 28.75" (29") belt with the stock pullys.

 

I still can't get the TPS set correctly. I checked the oil feed line for the oil leak but it was tight and dry. I think it is the pan because the rear bolts have droplets covering them and I don't see how oil from anotehr path would get all those bolts wet. It's possible my apex seal springs are compressed and bad. I have an appointment on monday with xs engineering and will tow my car there. So for now I am changing my setup a bit and while i'm in to it I will check to see if I find fuel. I have extra o-rings if the primary's are leaking. I had planned on eliminating the FPD but I don't have a bypass right now, so maybe next time.

Oh, I removed the air pump and the belt I used was a 29" Gates. None of the stores have Dayco in stock. I tried a 31" becasue that's what Pettit shows on their web site but it's too long. A 30" should work with the Greddy pully kit but no one lists Dayco in that size even though they do on their site. Gates has a 30" or almost, their belts are slightly shorter by 1/4" which is actually better. I am using their 28.75" (29") belt with the stock pullys.

 

Took my car to XS Engineering this morning. The cause of the bogging was PFC was set to 2-bar map sensor (instead of 3-bar). The reason I could not get an acurate reading and adjust my idle was becuase my cruise control was too tight and slightly holding the throttle open. It was allready adjusted to the maximum slack, so they disconected it and TPS is fine.

Oil pan leaking was confirmed by looking in to bell housing and not seeing oil spray from bad rear main seal. Oil leaks from drivers aluminum motor mount. I have a '94 but I was sent a set for a '93 when I bought eurothane motor mounts (and no heat shield, GrrRrr). I may also have possible bearing failure.