cozmo kraemer

I saw Crispy's site, actually used it quite a bit, when installing my turbo. However in his airpump solution I didnt actually need to take it that far (cutting off the ear bracket and using that spacer.

Instead I just cut down the black metal bracket that had the slot where the lower bolt of the airpump mounted. I then pivoted the airpump on its top mount point down toward the crank pulley to attach to the now shortened black bracket. I had to take up some of the slack in the belt using the alternator but I have plenty of tension and still adjustment room left.

I then used the same flexible hose the Crispy used. I just used the whole thing and let it bend around the ear that he cut off. Initially I thought that it may rub a hole in the flexible neoprene pipe...but then I realized that neither part would be moving very much and in about 300 miles of driving there is nary a sign of wear.

I didn't think I would be running an airpump all the time anyway. Kind of thought of it as an emission day only thing, but I am gonna keep running it to see if that flexible pipe holds up. I really dont see it becoming an issue.

I will post pics when I get home tonight. Sorry I didn't keep up with this thread before...

Car pulls REAL HARD in the upper RPMS. You have a lot to look forward to with that 500r!!

cozmo kraemer

Here are the pics of the airpump bracket hitting my intake piping. The two components will move together when they move so I am not too worried about wear. Plus I have the Poly engine mounts so I dont get much movement anyway.

here you go...

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

^ Coolio's, thanks for the pics.

Update on the pulley belts. The 32.5" is too long without lengthening the adjustment hole. I found a 31" belt on http://www.pettitracing.com/rx7/index_performance.htm

HYDOUKEN

iTrader: (1)

Hey Sean will I encounter the same problems as GoRacer & Cozmo kraemer (or has adjustments been made)? Since I guess I will be the third person to recieve the shorty style manifold for my GT35R T4 setup. And just to let everyone else know I am going with this manifold because the longer equal length runners (which I have now) wont allow an air filter to fit with the RE VMIC. Also Cozmo kraemer can you elaborate what firment issues you had so that I dont have to do through the same thing. I had enough fun the first time around installing this turbo ( I had to install everything in a specific order....if not certain bolts could not be reached at all!)

cozmo kraemer

PM me your email address and I will send you pictures of the whole fitment process. I eventually just had to remove the LIM and bang a couple of metal pieces in a bit, to get it to clear the chassis.

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

wow, that's nice. How much boost do you plan on running it?

maxcooper

Cozmo, I would do something to keep the air pump from rubbing through the intake hose. I think it will rub through pretty quickly if left as-is. I think the solution is to put something long-wearing at the contact point(s). Something that it attached to the intake hose (so it won't rub the hose). However, it is tricky to come up with something. Perhaps a piece of hose (cut a patch from a radiator hose) or plastic glued to the intake hose. Watch out for the glue edges stressing the hose, though -- glue that remains flexible would be best. Maybe just some silicone sealant or RTV would work.

Or maybe something smooth and slippery (like teflon or delrin) attached to the air pump, so that it can rub the intake hose without abrading it.

-Max

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I had planned on two maps, one 14lbs and one 16lbs (originally 20lbs but don't think injectors will do it) but know it may just be 1bar all around.

Max, what was your experience with Hill Perfomance Solutions (behind M'Trix)?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Oh, that is not my ride in that pic above. That is SuperAutobac's drift car. John got another belt option from a IBM FD in the shop with a Greddy kit (Mitsubishi belt but didn't get part # or length). There was also a beautiful yellow FD on it's 3rd or 4th engine with only 50k mi on it? Oh and he said the air pump from an auto is smaller, whether it's from a 95 only I don't know.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

You are actually way past being number three at this point. Adjustments were made the moment I was made aware of the issues. Both had a similar but different issue, you will not have those issues. As for airpump fitment you will have the same minor problems to tackle, there is no way for me to get around those issues.

-S-

cozmo kraemer

I know it is going to wear, but I am just trying to see what rate it is going to wear at. That is the purpose of me keeping it like that. I check it everyday, and I have been daily driving the car to sort out the drivability issues, so we will see. What I was going to do is just make the point of contact larger, thereby distributing the force over a larger area. I could take a piece of the 4" pipe I have left, cut a very small section and bend it to match the neoprene tubes radius. Then secure it at that contact point. That way the bracket is hitting the metal and distributing the force over a broader area instead of that one point.

Or I can break down and make the bracket like Crispy did, and cut the ear off of the air pump. That is the best way. I am just waiting to see how long the 'ghetto fix' I used works out. If it lasts, I may keep it...if not...I'll change it. The neoprene tube is cheap and if a hole develops it is a minor thing if caught right away. So I'm not worried.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I'm going crazy waiting for my car!
I was thinking of sending the compressor to A-Spec for the anti-surge port but can't afford the wait. oh well, down the road I guess.

OK, question of the day: Is it ok to use a stubby intake filter? I'm being told for my turbo the filter should be like a foot long. Well HKS makes a metal filter (exactly like Blitz) but it only sticks out a few inches. I don't see it collapsing or imploding since it's made of metal fiber whatever. I know there is question as to whether it will clean the incoming air efficiently enough but i've used the Blitz before and that's not a current concern. I'm not sure yeat if I can directly attach it to the compressor A/R (intake) mouth or if I have to use a curved pipe to place the filter in an open pocket of unblocked space.

dubulup

find a place that will allow for the biggest filter possible...then have a pipe fabbed to get it there.

You've gone thru this much...it'd be really disappointing to not be impressed with your results due to a major restriction with your intake.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

^ too late, I give up!

My idea was to cut off the top of the Ifini y-pipe and weld it on to the compressor outlet. The weld would not have be noticable and it would have retained the original twin piping route with the crazy "S" bend. I don't know if it couldn't be done or he forgot what I asked two weeks ago or since no one liked my idea, no one listened. ok, so I am going through extreme sticker shock so i'm not in the best of moods. There's no way I can finish my project now. I just want to be able to take it out so I don't lose it for payments due and store it in the garage.

Anyhow if I get the car back i'll update pics. the pipe from the turbo is strait to the fmic like every "aftermarket" setup which is the best flow but defeated what I was trying to do which was as stock a look as possible. The welds make it look aftermarket. It is very nice work but I would have sacrificed flow for the crazy bends and silicone couplers.

cozmo kraemer

Can't you just use the same neoprene pipe Crispy and I used (maybe a little longer), and hook it into an M2 or PFS type intake box. I have a fiberglass intake box made for twins that I could give you to try and modify if you wanted it.

You just said "as stock a look as possible" and FMIC in the same sentance...

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Well, i'm a bit stressed. I've spent over $100,000k in the past year on the truck, RX7 and the house. Stupid old contractor owes me money. House isn't finished, 7 isn't finished and bill is still climbing. The stupid FMIC is supposed to be bolt in but you have to cut metal and I had to angle the radiator so it wouldn't sit lower then the sway bar. Now I have to pay for the A/C to remount the A/C stuff and ...It's going to be $1k or more just for the fmic pipes and smog pump bracket. I haven't got the other bill from M'Trix. My damn g/f is in Oregon and she's not sharing the bi ***** with me and my f'n tires cost me $1,600 and i'm spending $200-$300/week on gas for the F150.

As far as stock & fmic, well I was trying to make it look just like it did with the twins. I tried to have the pipes routed exactly the same. I was going to have the Efini crossover pipe "bolt" into the turbo by hacking off and welding the "Y" pipe flange to it. That didn't happen. Now i'm trying to hide the BOV by mounting it downward under the pipe. I wanted it on the elbow but Tial is too big. Matt sugested the passenger side pipe but then changed his mind cause he refuses to mount a HKS metal mesh stubby filter cause he thinks it will blow the engine. So after all this the pipes will still look like a single turbo setup and it will use the same type of bracket Crispy did and hacked of an ear on the pump.

dubulup

okay step back and take a deep breath...just think, "one thing at a time."

damn son...all this, and you probably still won't pass emissions, due to the non EGR (you might have a 95 LIM and sticker, but your VIN won't say 95...unless you've got one of those too )

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

OK, $1,250 later ...and I have an empty wallet, empty preperation H tube, empty smelling salts bottle, empty heart attack medecine bottle and a custom air pump bracket didlybop?


Here is a pic of the completed custom work which consisted of: custom air pump bracket cutting and welded provided bent and strait aluminum tubes, BOV, etc. Parts purchased, aluminum for bracket, tube from compressor to filter and one belt.


The inlet piping consists of Efini crossover pipe with flange cut off and welded to aluminum tube (45 dree I think). If it's a starit tube then I have no idea why it was welded. I had extra couplers and hopefully still have the clamp things. S I found out when the strait coupler was changed for the hump version, it will rub and scratch the pipe under the strut bar. Hopefully that will rub off since it's heat powdercoated. That orange tube, not shure, maybe water or oil hose maybe. Main pulley is UR (will change others later). Blue Tial BOV welded on elbow side and pointed downward to keep out of plain view.

If you look at the turbo and then air pump you will notice the pipe sticking out of the back of it, that and the strut bar is most like the reason why it couldn't be routed with the stock "S" shape as I originally inteneded ...and the fact that the air pump can not be adjusted/rotated for clearance because that had to be cut off.


Above is a pic of the custom bracket. If you guys want replicas, please donate $100 to the "GoRacer got **** probed by aliens" fund by paypal at GoRacer@yahoo.com Oh and if you see me at 7Stock, feel free to and then

dubulup

$1250 for that?!?! you could have bought a pimp welder with that loot. At least you are moving forward again.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I have to ask: why care if it looks stock? Is it because you live in Cali? That engine bay looks pretty far from stock. Best of luck with the project, I am sure you'll make some good power when it is all sorted out

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Please get some nice action this!!

Like highway pulls, dyno, burnouts etc etc.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Since I keep getting so many PM's: $1250 was from shop behind M'trix and not the Madatrix charge, M'Trix charge is about $1500 for about 100hrs of work and about 1/2 ($750) was trying to fit/modify/ship/install/reinstall the turbo and manifold becuase of fitment issues. So turbo kit cost me about $6,000 ...and still not completed.

What did I get for $1250?

Parts purchased/provided and added to price:
1ea silicone or something tube to mount filter.
1ea alumium tube inside of silicone to mount filter.
1ea aluminum for Crispy bracket replica.
1ea Goodyear belt.

Work done/time charged (was told over 12.5hrs):
* Efini air pipe flange cut off and hump made.
* Efini air pipe hump on other end cut off then welded to aluminum pipe (sorry can't asnwer why it was welded instead of using provided couplers, don't know).
* Elbow side two pipes welded, BOV welded to that.
* Mock up on bad air pump to make bracket
* Cutting off ears on good air pump and install non adjustable Crispy replica bracket from provided printout off of Crispy's web site.
* 1/2h-1hr? travel time to go to/from home depot for parts.
* Installed one belt.
* Installed two pulleys.
* phone call time to ask if belt sizes were available.
* measuring belt sizes

Parts I provided and was not included in the price:
Aluminum tube provided by me (madrel bent, 45, 60, 90 degree & strait pipes)
Efini crossover air pipe (polished and heat coated) from Y-pipe kit provided by me
Tial BOV kit w/flange provided by me
Greddy Air Pump pulley kit provided by me.
UR complete pulley kit provided by me.
Silicone couplers provided by me.
Steel pipes from Apexi kit provided by me.
Greddy aluminum pipes provided by me.
Breeze $15 clamps provided by me but not mounted.


Yes, because of Cali smog bullpoop and modified car police crackdown. The smog isn't so much the issue as I could have fixed that for 1/12th of the cost but I have been pulled of and had my CRX impounded from crooked asswipe cops. Yes I won in court but was still left stranded at 3am and cost $700 to release car.

kenn_chan

Yikes,

I think after that maybe you should just by stock in KY-JELLY.com or something. I thought Japan was costing me on my project, but damn

would it not be easier just to have bought a HKS or blitz premaid kit, remap your computer to run with an electric air pump, and then pay to have the car resmogged with modified emissions gear? or do they allow this there?

Here you can pay to get your car resmogged with alternate emissions gear, and as long as it can pass the smog requirements for when it was made, they just list the new equipment on your title for future refference. (the re-smog costs about 5K) but its a one time thing, and once you have re-engineered it you can sell up to 9 additional licenses for vehicles that are built exactly the same as yours to try and recoup your money.

kenn

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

^ they don't offer the modified title thing in the US. HKS T04Z may have been cheaper and easier but would not have provided an air pump option. If I could have proved the T04Z without a smog pump would pass smog and modifiy the title, I may have gone that route instead.

One of the tricks I did (besides Efini pipe) was to use a '95+ intake manifold, since the EGR is in the way even with jost a bop the hump is still in the way. I have a spare for sale. I was going to keep it and have it polished but I need the money. I also have all my twin stuff for sale ...pass the word, please. thanks.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, no updates yet. I have a dyno scheduled for 7Stock weekend. I will post results then.