HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Alright, I might be going single turbo if I keep the car and I was wondering what exactly I need to be looking at to convert.

I believe I have all the supporting mods already done to switch to a single other than fuel pump/injectors.

What I am looking for is to push more than my twins can, eliminate the rats nest, and just simplify the engine compartment a little more.

I have PFC/SMIC/DP/MP/Exhaust/boost controller/turbo timer and I think all of the mods needed to upgrade but I don't know which single to look at. I will be using pump gas here in Cali (91) and would like to be pushing above 400hp. I don't know if this is possible with stock engine/ports but sooner or later whenever the stock reman engine goes, I'll be building the engine up.

I'm trying to price out my options, so I need to know the turbo, estimated hp, and other things I will need to get in order to switch.

Roto7FD

I haven't read up on your previous posts, you didn't sell the car??

hmmm, you would need upgraded injectors like you mentioned, FPR, FPR gauge, primary and secondary rails, block off plates, not sure if you have a BOV yet, piping, upgraded intercooler, look into getting a wideband. For 400hp you'd probably want colder plugs, and perhaps a HKS twin power, i think stock coils are fine at this point. The list goes on but I think those are probably the main upgrades I think.....

You should check out A-spec's kits, they offer numerous options I think you would like to achieve 400+hp, their kit comes complete and whats best is they warranty they're mani's and dp's for life.

fastcarfreak

seems as though you have the right starting mods... you may want to upgrade to a FMIC depending on which stock mount you have... as you know, you will be needing fuel rail, fuel injectors and a better flowing fuel pump... as for turbo, a T78 should net you what you want on a stock ported motor at around 17 psi (i wouldnt go any higher on pump gas)... you may want to upgrade your map sensor and get yourself a HKS twin power... if you want an even better setup, you should get yourself a water/methanol injection setup... It is the best/cheapest added safety device you can do.

once you get the power you need you may start breaking some stuff... so your also gonna want to upgrade your LSD to either the T2 diff or the kaaz diff.. Your axles should be ok as long as you dont throw slicks on and get some really go 60ft times... but for 400 rwhp, you are gonna want a set of drag radials for out back, unless you have a wide set of wheels in the back (10 inches +)

The most important thing you can do when your trying to make power is a really good tune from a credited rotary tuner....

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Yea, I'm looking and wondering if there are kits where they already have all of these things included into the price already?

These are my mods:

BASICS

*1994 Base, 5 speed, (first sold in May of '95)
*105k miles odometer reading, 35k on remanufactured engine, compression tested by previous owner prior to my purchasing the car on 12/23/2005)
#1 (10.1, 10.0, 10.2) #2 (9.9, 10.0, 9.8) WHICH IS VERY GOOD!)
*Black Interior 9.5/10 (new trunk carpet and floormats!)
*Mercedes Bahama Blue Mica (the color of the '99 - '00 SLK) paint job done in 2003, exterior 9/10 (garaged)

MODS

-Power/Drivetrain-

*Greddy Intakes
*PFS Intercooler
*HKS Mild Steel DP
*RX7Trixx Midpipe
*Racing Beat Dual Tip Exhaust
*RPS Performance clutch (street disc with a sport pressure plate)
*Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys, anodized blue

-Cooling-

*M2 Radiator with fan switch mod
*Aluminum AST

-Guages/Electronics-

*Apexi Power FC with Commander
*Greddy Profec B spec ii in a custom akiratdk din plate
*Greddy turbo timer
*Blitz boost gauge in a RE-A steering column pod
*White faced gauges, reverse glow with dead needles
*Alpine CDA-9855 Glide-Touch CD/MP3 Player
*Elemental Design 6500i 6.5” Component Speakers in custom fiberglass door pods
*Elemental Design Nine.2 Amplifier
*Elemental Design eDead V3 on the doors

-Suspension/Misc-

*Stance Coilovers imported from Japan by Rishie at AutoRnD
*AME Circular Spec-R BBF Finish 18x9 and 18x10 wheels imported from Japan by Rishie at AutoRnD
*Falken 452 255/35/18 front and 275/35/18 rear tires with around 90% tread left
*51R Battery Tray
*Ebay Torque Brace
*Ebay Strut Tower Bar
*California Car Cover, custom fit cover

-Exterior/Appearance-

*Efini emblems
*5% limo tint all around
*Painted R1 lip
*Feed headlight cover
*Intake piping, UIM, battery tie downs, and AST have been powder coated wrinkle black
*Glossy black interior panels
*Custom license plate frame “I love my zoom! zoom!”

MAINTENANCE

All maintenance has been done @ Mazda Masters and Rotor Sport (http://rotorsport2.com/) and the following was done by previous owner prior to me purchasing the car on 12/23/2005

*Motor - good compression on all faces, about 18 in of vacuum
*New OEM water pump
*New OEM O2 sensor
*2 New OEM motor mounts
*New OEM Oilpan
*New T-Stat
*New turbo coolant hoses
*New battery
*Bushings replaced recently and were inspected to still be in great condition
*Brakes still in good condition
*Oil changed frequently @ RotorSport (Royal Purple or Mobil 1 depending on what was available)OEM filters/OEM plugs)
*New OEM Fuel Pulsation Dampener

Roto7FD

hahah i thought i double posted just scrolling really quick seeing the same avatar.

I don't think you can buy a "complete" kit that has everything, besides some of the things you might want to piece because something that comes with the kit might not be all that great. I believe the turbo kit should be covered, you don't have to run around looking for lines, fittings, wastegate, etc. Ultimate fuel kit from rx7store should come complete too with rails, injectors, fpr, gauge, etc, braided lines. With those 2 kits I believe you're like 70% complete as far as parts. Your RB catback might be a little restrictive trying to make 400hp though, just a thought.

As the guy stated above, superior tuning is probably the key to hitting the hp you want and that ain't cheap.

northeastbeast

Me too!

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Alright, so I've decided to keep the 7 instead of selling it. I just love it too much.

Now, I've listed my mods above, and I'm not going to have the funds to do this all at once, but I would like to know what I should get step by step. I'm thinking fuel pump/injectors first, and then what from there?

I think my Greddy Boost controller is going bad, but would I be able to use my PFC as a "controller" or do I need to buy another controller?

So I need a list, step by step what to get first

1. 1300cc secondary injectors
2. fuel pump (which ones?)
3. ?
4. ?
5. ?
6. ?
7. ?

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

edit

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

doesnt the pfc boost controller cut fuel if you go past the set boost?

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

New clutch.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

The RPS clutch now won't hold up?

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

Not if you want to push above 400 to the wheels. You're looking into a twin disk from there. That's why I'm staying under the 400 mark or at it. I like my hyper single (since I just got it). I could be wrong, but over 400 to the wheels your single disc should be close to it's max. I know for 500-700 it's recommended to use a twin disc. You want over 400. So, you're almost maxing out the ability of a single disc. How much more over 400? If under 450 you should still be able to use the single. Someone else please chime in on this.

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

I'd look into getting a A`PEX-i BNR33 GT-R fuel pump. This one here:
http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/ap...gtr%20pump.htm

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

First off realize there is no smog legal single kit in CA. There are ways around it, especially in san diego but it will never be CARB legal.

With that being said, it's best do decide exactly what you want so things don't have to be redone several times. Fuel is a good place to start. Yes you can run 850/1300 stock hoses and rail with a small fpr like Sard or HKS which will allow the ose of the rubber lines. Apexi fuel pump is great. I was one of the first to use it when everyone said I was wasting my money and now everyone is switching over to it. It's safer then dual pumps which is worth the cost. My Nismo version has a rubber cover that insulates noise, unfortunately my mechanic redmoved it.

If you want to retain the air pump tjen your choices at that HP are:
Apexi RX6
HKS T04Z
A-SPec GT35R (air pump relocation kit not provided)

Now, how do you want the car to feeel? Do you do mostly freeway or prefer power on the freeway. Ocasional racing choices of drag and open track/club style (large A/R). Do you prefer and mostly do city driving with quick bursts with ocasional autox (smaller A/R).

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I think ideally, street wise is a nice responsive turbo. The stock twins when they were working and pulling hard were fun and great to have. When driving around town I don't quite boost at all most of the time, so most of the pulls are of course on the freeway.

I'm looking to have a 400-mid 400hp car on Cali pump gas (91) Possibly not achievable right now on my stock ports, but when I do go and port when my engine needs it, I'll be able to achieve around 450 or the potential to.

With all of that said, we also want to minimize turbo lag enough. I've been doing research and seems like the ASpec GT3574 seems ideal. Basically a mix of a 35R and a t04r?

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Also, is the air pump needed for anything? Or is it just for smog? If I'm going single, I may as well remove it if it is just there for smog, because I'll have to "pass" smog another way anyways with a single.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

^ for smog test and possibly visual when pulled over so you're not sent to a referee or worse. There is no garauntee the air pump will prevent that though. Correct.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

READ: http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/gt35rpage1.htm

Last page documents all the nickle and dime crap I had to buy in addition to the "kit"

My writeup also does not address ancilliaries like bigger injectors, upgraded fuel system, clutch, flywheel, exhaust, componenst downstream fo the wastegate, IC's, etc., that go hand in hand with 400+rwhp goals.
HTH,
Crispy

dhahlen

iTrader: (5)

Fuel Pump (Supra TT good to 400hp), Blockoff Plates, Oil LInes (drain and feed), Coolant Lines (if water cooled turbo), Intercooler, Blow Off Valve, New/Custom PIping for IC, ECU, Boost Controller, Tuning, LSD (optional depending on how you launch but good to have), Radiator, Pullies (for air pump removal), FUel Pressure Regulator and of course the kit itself (Turbo, Manifold, Wastegate, and gaskets).

That should be about it... I may have missed a thing or two.

Oh yeah, clutch for over 330-350hp. Flywheel is nice too... and counterweight for flywheel.

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

Someone should make a list of the basics and what not and then sticky it

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

+1

dhahlen

iTrader: (5)

-Fuel Pump - Something to make desired Hp
-Clutch - Street/Strip best for most, unless you want serious power then use a puck clutch
-Blockoff plates - Depends on how many emissions related things you remove
-Oil Lines - To feed turbo and a larger line to drain back into stock return
-Coolant Lines - For water cooled turbo
-Intercooler - Most medium/large IC's are best. Greddy 2/3 Row, Blitz FMIC, etc.
-Piping for Intercooler - Has to be designed per application unless you buy a full kit
-Pulley Kit (if air pump removed) - Waterpump/Alternator Pulleys needed
-Radiator - A Must for obvious reasons
-Greddy Elbow - to couple to new IC pipes
-Blow Off Valve - To release excess charge pressure in pipes
-ECU - Haltech, PowerFC, Wolf3d, Motec, AEM, etc, etc
-LSD - Kaaz/Cusco if you're into drag/track and want something that can take a beating
-Fuel Rails/Injectors - 850/1300 for stock rails (850 in primary requires rail milling or an aftermarket rail, 1300's will it in stock secondary) 850/1600 if you want upwards of 500+ hp
-Fuel Pressure Regulator - 1:1 regulator to keep fuel pressure linear
-Battery Relocation or replacement (depending on Intercooler)
-Ignition Amplifier - For nice cold spark, depends on desired boost level.
-Boost Controller - Unless you want to use only spring pressure, this is best to keep your boost at a desired level. Remember you can't control boost pressure that is lower than your wastegate spring.
Your Turbo Kit & a good tuner

That is pretty much the basics... there are bits and pieces. No use to go into specifics as one kit can vastly differ from the next. I've done a couple single conversions and those are all pretty much universal. If anyone wants a few suggestions or has questions you can shoot me a pm or hit me up on AIM - I'll throw ya whatever knowledge that I have or have come across.

Darren

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Most people don't realize just how expensive 'going single' is. Between Jegs, Summit, McMaster, and Parts System, I must have spent over $400 in extra stuff. The last page of Crispy's site that he linked to gives a good idea of all the small extras that add up to deplete your bank account

Edit: I already had a setup that supported 420 rwhp from running BNR's the prior 5 years. I ended up upgrading my (already upgraded) fuel system, exhaust, and intercooler, and ended up spending about $5000 out of pocket for the turbo kit and all ancillaries. This is with my purchasing parts with wholesale discounts and 'good guy' hookups.

dhahlen

iTrader: (5)

That seems accurate rich.

I picked up my GT35r Kit with Wastegate, Manifold, and Downpipe, with a Apexi GT Intercooler for just over $2000, then I had to spend $400 for the Turbo Rebuild (Garrett Special). So I was about $2600-2800 into it for the turbo kit and intercooler which is a steal. Fuel System, ECU, BOV cost me approx $1100, then the clutch/flywheel and ignition amp was nearly another $1000. I need to replace my wiring harness which I can get a used one for decent, but if I want a new one it'll cost me another $750. Then I need piping for the IC, and misc parts... my SS OMP Lines, etc etc... so the setup will have costed me around $8000 when all complete.

I'll be lucky to break even if I decide to part with the FD.

Nuvolari

iTrader: (4)

Break even after going single, thats impossible.....

I try to avoid listing the total of my single conversion, it makes me ill I spent so much. Like alot of people I had no idea all the small things required to do it right. Add to that the majority of hoses and my wire harness needed replaced.

And it doesnt end there... its great to have power but dont forget you still need to stop and turn. Brakes, motor mounts, and a good suspenshion are all needed if you want to go single. If you dont address that stuff first , the car will just be fast but no fun to drive.