methanol is $1.99 a gallon
#1
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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methanol is $1.99 a gallon
my condolences to all running racegas but i just had to respond re the price of racegas.
you can get all the boost/power you want out of a combo of pump and alcohol plus you get more cooling and only use it when you put the hammer down.
approx 45 gallons of racegas buys you the first class system from Alkycontrol and then you can burn alcohol as well as drink it.
besides most bars, alcohol (methanol) can be purchased at $1.99 per gallon from Wolf Petroleum, Slinger Wisconsin. should you not be fortunate and live near Slinger (World's fastest short track quarter mile... home of the late great Alan Kulwicki and Mat Kenseth) i suggest you find the closest short track where modifieds run.
win win
howard coleman
you can get all the boost/power you want out of a combo of pump and alcohol plus you get more cooling and only use it when you put the hammer down.
approx 45 gallons of racegas buys you the first class system from Alkycontrol and then you can burn alcohol as well as drink it.
besides most bars, alcohol (methanol) can be purchased at $1.99 per gallon from Wolf Petroleum, Slinger Wisconsin. should you not be fortunate and live near Slinger (World's fastest short track quarter mile... home of the late great Alan Kulwicki and Mat Kenseth) i suggest you find the closest short track where modifieds run.
win win
howard coleman
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Howard,
You are getting methanol and ethanol mixed up.
They both can be used for alky injection, but methanol is poisnous.
Ethanol is the one in alcohol beverages.
Chuck
You are getting methanol and ethanol mixed up.
They both can be used for alky injection, but methanol is poisnous.
Ethanol is the one in alcohol beverages.
Chuck
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Originally Posted by howard coleman
you can get all the boost/power you want out of a combo of pump and alcohol
#9
BDC Motorsports
Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
Howard,
You are getting methanol and ethanol mixed up.
They both can be used for alky injection, but methanol is poisnous.
Ethanol is the one in alcohol beverages.
Chuck
You are getting methanol and ethanol mixed up.
They both can be used for alky injection, but methanol is poisnous.
Ethanol is the one in alcohol beverages.
Chuck
B
#10
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
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drink ethanol
burn methanol... chuck as usual is correct.
it is a distinct pleasure to welcome him to this thread. few have offered more help than chuck. most of us owe him something.
alcohol. the missing link the will propel the rotary and high boost to heretofore not able to reach reliable power levels.
a year from now we will be tuning to knock not afrs.
howard coleman
burn methanol... chuck as usual is correct.
it is a distinct pleasure to welcome him to this thread. few have offered more help than chuck. most of us owe him something.
alcohol. the missing link the will propel the rotary and high boost to heretofore not able to reach reliable power levels.
a year from now we will be tuning to knock not afrs.
howard coleman
#11
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Originally Posted by LUPE
I haven't seen any BIG HP rotaries on just pump and injection. I used alchohol injection on my RX7 5 years ago and didn't like it.
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Originally Posted by hondahater
was it as advanced as it is now? I mean I know injecting alky is just that but now the means of measuring the amount and at what boost level etc... is alot more advanced then it was 5 years ago
I'm sure that if I would have stuck with it, I would have got it working right.
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Here's a question for the smart listers.
Can you measure AFR with a wideband if mixing fuels that burn stoic at different ratios?
Would you have to read lamda instead of AFR for it to make sense, or would there be no way to make sense of it without knowing the specific amount of each fuel?
Can you measure AFR with a wideband if mixing fuels that burn stoic at different ratios?
Would you have to read lamda instead of AFR for it to make sense, or would there be no way to make sense of it without knowing the specific amount of each fuel?
#17
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slo,
a great question
here's the table:
Vout-- Lambda-- Petrol-- LPG-- Methanol-- Diesel
1.40-- 0.686-- 10.08-- 10.63-- 4.39-- 9.94
1.45-- 0.696-- 10.23-- 10.79-- 4.45-- 10.09
1.50-- 0.706-- 10.38-- 10.94-- 4.52-- 10.24
1.55-- 0.716-- 10.53-- 11.10-- 4.58-- 10.39
1.60-- 0.727-- 10.69-- 11.27-- 4.65-- 10.54
1.65-- 0.739-- 10.86-- 11.45-- 4.73-- 10.71
1.70-- 0.750-- 11.03-- 11.63-- 4.80-- 10.88
1.75-- 0.762-- 11.20-- 11.81-- 4.88-- 11.05
1.80-- 0.774-- 11.38-- 12.00-- 4.95-- 11.23
1.85-- 0.787-- 11.57-- 12.20-- 5.04-- 11.41
1.90-- 0.800-- 11.76-- 12.40-- 5.12-- 11.60
1.95-- 0.814-- 11.96-- 12.61-- 5.21-- 11.80
2.00-- 0.828-- 12.17-- 12.83-- 5.30-- 12.00
2.05-- 0.842-- 12.38-- 13.05-- 5.39-- 12.21
2.10 --0.857-- 12.60-- 13.29 --5.49-- 12.43
2.15-- 0.873-- 12.83-- 13.53-- 5.59-- 12.66
2.20-- 0.889- -13.07-- 13.78-- 5.69- -12.89
2.25-- 0.905-- 13.31-- 14.03 --5.79-- 13.13
2.30-- 0.923-- 13.57-- 14.31-- 5.91-- 13.39
2.35-- 0.941-- 13.84-- 14.59-- 6.03-- 13.65
2.40-- 0.960-- 14.11-- 14.88-- 6.14-- 13.92
2.45-- 0.980-- 14.40-- 15.18-- 6.27-- 14.20
2.50-- 1.000-- 14.70-- 15.50-- 6.40 --14.50
2.55-- 1.037-- 15.25-- 16.08-- 6.64-- 15.04
2.60 --1.078-- 15.84-- 16.70 --6.90-- 15.62
2.65-- 1.121-- 16.48-- 17.38-- 7.17-- 16.26
2.70-- 1.169-- 17.18-- 18.11- -7.48-- 16.95
2.75-- 1.220-- 17.93-- 18.91-- 7.81-- 17.69
2.80-- 1.276-- 18.76-- 19.78-- 8.17-- 18.50
2.85-- 1.337-- 19.66-- 20.73-- 8.56-- 19.39
2.90-- 1.405-- 20.66-- 21.78- -8.99-- 20.38
. . .
4.00 free-air (can be used for calibration)
looking at the table....
let's say you run 80% pump at 11.57 and will add 20% methanol. check the table and note methanol's equivalent lambda is 5.04.
8 X 11.57 plus 2 X 5.04/10= 10.26 target.
additional tuning info on turbobuick.com. check a recent thread entitled:
"how does methanol effect wideband readings" 42 posts.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/sho...3&page=1&pp=35
while you are there i recommend you read the top sticky post... Tuning w methanol.
or you could read all 200 plus pages of threads like i did.
good luck,
howard coleman
a great question
here's the table:
Vout-- Lambda-- Petrol-- LPG-- Methanol-- Diesel
1.40-- 0.686-- 10.08-- 10.63-- 4.39-- 9.94
1.45-- 0.696-- 10.23-- 10.79-- 4.45-- 10.09
1.50-- 0.706-- 10.38-- 10.94-- 4.52-- 10.24
1.55-- 0.716-- 10.53-- 11.10-- 4.58-- 10.39
1.60-- 0.727-- 10.69-- 11.27-- 4.65-- 10.54
1.65-- 0.739-- 10.86-- 11.45-- 4.73-- 10.71
1.70-- 0.750-- 11.03-- 11.63-- 4.80-- 10.88
1.75-- 0.762-- 11.20-- 11.81-- 4.88-- 11.05
1.80-- 0.774-- 11.38-- 12.00-- 4.95-- 11.23
1.85-- 0.787-- 11.57-- 12.20-- 5.04-- 11.41
1.90-- 0.800-- 11.76-- 12.40-- 5.12-- 11.60
1.95-- 0.814-- 11.96-- 12.61-- 5.21-- 11.80
2.00-- 0.828-- 12.17-- 12.83-- 5.30-- 12.00
2.05-- 0.842-- 12.38-- 13.05-- 5.39-- 12.21
2.10 --0.857-- 12.60-- 13.29 --5.49-- 12.43
2.15-- 0.873-- 12.83-- 13.53-- 5.59-- 12.66
2.20-- 0.889- -13.07-- 13.78-- 5.69- -12.89
2.25-- 0.905-- 13.31-- 14.03 --5.79-- 13.13
2.30-- 0.923-- 13.57-- 14.31-- 5.91-- 13.39
2.35-- 0.941-- 13.84-- 14.59-- 6.03-- 13.65
2.40-- 0.960-- 14.11-- 14.88-- 6.14-- 13.92
2.45-- 0.980-- 14.40-- 15.18-- 6.27-- 14.20
2.50-- 1.000-- 14.70-- 15.50-- 6.40 --14.50
2.55-- 1.037-- 15.25-- 16.08-- 6.64-- 15.04
2.60 --1.078-- 15.84-- 16.70 --6.90-- 15.62
2.65-- 1.121-- 16.48-- 17.38-- 7.17-- 16.26
2.70-- 1.169-- 17.18-- 18.11- -7.48-- 16.95
2.75-- 1.220-- 17.93-- 18.91-- 7.81-- 17.69
2.80-- 1.276-- 18.76-- 19.78-- 8.17-- 18.50
2.85-- 1.337-- 19.66-- 20.73-- 8.56-- 19.39
2.90-- 1.405-- 20.66-- 21.78- -8.99-- 20.38
. . .
4.00 free-air (can be used for calibration)
looking at the table....
let's say you run 80% pump at 11.57 and will add 20% methanol. check the table and note methanol's equivalent lambda is 5.04.
8 X 11.57 plus 2 X 5.04/10= 10.26 target.
additional tuning info on turbobuick.com. check a recent thread entitled:
"how does methanol effect wideband readings" 42 posts.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/sho...3&page=1&pp=35
while you are there i recommend you read the top sticky post... Tuning w methanol.
or you could read all 200 plus pages of threads like i did.
good luck,
howard coleman
#19
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
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i am still in the trimming out process and should be close to fully tuned by the end of next week.
i run 850/1600 injectors and two M10 alcohol nozzles that will produce around 1240 cc/min or equivalant to 29% of my fuel on a volume basis at 85% duty cycle. my target is 23 psi w my turbos which is about 84 pounds per minute of air. my guess is i will be running approx 15-20% alcohol.
howard coleman
i run 850/1600 injectors and two M10 alcohol nozzles that will produce around 1240 cc/min or equivalant to 29% of my fuel on a volume basis at 85% duty cycle. my target is 23 psi w my turbos which is about 84 pounds per minute of air. my guess is i will be running approx 15-20% alcohol.
howard coleman
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Originally Posted by slo
Here's a question for the smart listers.
Can you measure AFR with a wideband if mixing fuels that burn stoic at different ratios?
Would you have to read lamda instead of AFR for it to make sense, or would there be no way to make sense of it without knowing the specific amount of each fuel?
Can you measure AFR with a wideband if mixing fuels that burn stoic at different ratios?
Would you have to read lamda instead of AFR for it to make sense, or would there be no way to make sense of it without knowing the specific amount of each fuel?
spot on... You should tune using lambda or not adjust the sensor at all as somebody once said " dont matter if you tune petrol of cola 1 lambda is 1 lambda". I dont agre with the table becasue you are creating a blended fuel. The quality will vary greatly. Also why use a table to calculate you stoich when you can work it out with a basic formula.
In my brief spell using meth i found the blend made a small amount more tq. How eva there are much more powerful blends then pure meth.
Scott
#22
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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i posted the table as an additional source of info not as a magic bullet.
use it and/or do the math as it's pretty simple stuff. since not all of us are at the same level the table might be helpful as it shows how different various fuels are as to stoich and it makes the point that lambda is 1 for all fuels.
as to using methanol for a "brief spell" and making a "small" power addition.... just what is your point? clearly methanol when properly used makes huge potential additional power. there is no question about that and the reason for my comment to the aforementioned statement is i don't want people considering alcohol AI to get the wrong guidence.
simply put, properly administered alcohol plus pump allows you to turn up the boost approx 10 psi with no increase in knock and slightly lower egts. that's 75 to 150 more rwhp easy.
i appreciate your contributions Scott but i suggest you wring it out and get to a fully tuned position before reaching a conclusion. perhaps stating that alcohol, when not tuned-up still gave you a modest boost while cooling your AIT might have been a more accurate statement. it has been repeatedly stated that if the tune is not adjusted to take advantage of alcohol little or no power again will be delivered.
as to "much more powerful blends"... that to me is a backhanded slap against methanol which sells for $1.99 a gallon in my neck of the woods and not only allows an additional 10 psi boost but cools the AIT and egts. even in my twisted state of mind of wanting it all methanol looks good enough for me.
howard coleman
use it and/or do the math as it's pretty simple stuff. since not all of us are at the same level the table might be helpful as it shows how different various fuels are as to stoich and it makes the point that lambda is 1 for all fuels.
as to using methanol for a "brief spell" and making a "small" power addition.... just what is your point? clearly methanol when properly used makes huge potential additional power. there is no question about that and the reason for my comment to the aforementioned statement is i don't want people considering alcohol AI to get the wrong guidence.
simply put, properly administered alcohol plus pump allows you to turn up the boost approx 10 psi with no increase in knock and slightly lower egts. that's 75 to 150 more rwhp easy.
i appreciate your contributions Scott but i suggest you wring it out and get to a fully tuned position before reaching a conclusion. perhaps stating that alcohol, when not tuned-up still gave you a modest boost while cooling your AIT might have been a more accurate statement. it has been repeatedly stated that if the tune is not adjusted to take advantage of alcohol little or no power again will be delivered.
as to "much more powerful blends"... that to me is a backhanded slap against methanol which sells for $1.99 a gallon in my neck of the woods and not only allows an additional 10 psi boost but cools the AIT and egts. even in my twisted state of mind of wanting it all methanol looks good enough for me.
howard coleman
#23
HAHA V8
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Originally Posted by howard coleman
i posted the table as an additional source of info not as a magic bullet.
use it and/or do the math as it's pretty simple stuff. since not all of us are at the same level the table might be helpful as it shows how different various fuels are as to stoich and it makes the point that lambda is 1 for all fuels.
as to using methanol for a "brief spell" and making a "small" power addition.... just what is your point? clearly methanol when properly used makes huge potential additional power. there is no question about that and the reason for my comment to the aforementioned statement is i don't want people considering alcohol AI to get the wrong guidence.
simply put, properly administered alcohol plus pump allows you to turn up the boost approx 10 psi with no increase in knock and slightly lower egts. that's 75 to 150 more rwhp easy.
i appreciate your contributions Scott but i suggest you wring it out and get to a fully tuned position before reaching a conclusion. perhaps stating that alcohol, when not tuned-up still gave you a modest boost while cooling your AIT might have been a more accurate statement. it has been repeatedly stated that if the tune is not adjusted to take advantage of alcohol little or no power again will be delivered.
as to "much more powerful blends"... that to me is a backhanded slap against methanol which sells for $1.99 a gallon in my neck of the woods and not only allows an additional 10 psi boost but cools the AIT and egts. even in my twisted state of mind of wanting it all methanol looks good enough for me.
howard coleman
use it and/or do the math as it's pretty simple stuff. since not all of us are at the same level the table might be helpful as it shows how different various fuels are as to stoich and it makes the point that lambda is 1 for all fuels.
as to using methanol for a "brief spell" and making a "small" power addition.... just what is your point? clearly methanol when properly used makes huge potential additional power. there is no question about that and the reason for my comment to the aforementioned statement is i don't want people considering alcohol AI to get the wrong guidence.
simply put, properly administered alcohol plus pump allows you to turn up the boost approx 10 psi with no increase in knock and slightly lower egts. that's 75 to 150 more rwhp easy.
i appreciate your contributions Scott but i suggest you wring it out and get to a fully tuned position before reaching a conclusion. perhaps stating that alcohol, when not tuned-up still gave you a modest boost while cooling your AIT might have been a more accurate statement. it has been repeatedly stated that if the tune is not adjusted to take advantage of alcohol little or no power again will be delivered.
as to "much more powerful blends"... that to me is a backhanded slap against methanol which sells for $1.99 a gallon in my neck of the woods and not only allows an additional 10 psi boost but cools the AIT and egts. even in my twisted state of mind of wanting it all methanol looks good enough for me.
howard coleman
#24
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
that's a legitimate/good question. "failsafes"
first and foremost the integrity of the system is key. i spent 2 months researching AIs and after looking at all the failsafes found them each somewhat leaky. for instance a flow sensor triggering my boost controller to cut boost.... even though that might happen i am still left w the actuator spring pressure or about 10 psi.
since SYSTEM INTEGRITY IS KEY i concluded that it was of the utmost importance to deal with the party that had the most experience with alcohol, an offeree that used alcohol in the manner that i wished, which is to "tune-up" and use the increased hp/tq that alcohol offered. someone who could advise from direct experience as to tuning. it was a real bonus to find that the principle of the firm also was an Electrical Engineer as well as a racer. ( low 10 seconds, with a street driven 231 cu inch 2 valve V6 at 3450 pounds on pump and alcohol). there's lots of re-engineering on the pump and lots of thinking on the electrical components (including a separate heatsink) so as to decrease the possibility of a blown fuse.... which would be not good. i am absolutely delighted with my choice and i have a high degree of comfort in the build quality and components.... (Alkycontrol- Julio Don)
as to failsafe....i settled on a J&S Knock Sensor/IGL auto-retard. should i run into serious knock above a settable boost the IGL will retard as much as 10 degrees on the NEXT POWER IMPULSE. (i give up a few hp and purposely run 11 degrees split so as to not run into an IGT spark before IGL on full retard.) note: the J&S needs to be the one w the map sensor since you don't want retard in the vacuum area where you run zero split.
there are a number of LED and noise indicators but by the time that happens and you lift you are toast. yes it is nice to see them as monitors/confirmation but NO they will not save your engine in a catastrophic event.
BTW, i am really knocked out as to how my system installed. i run a 4 gallon Jaz fuelcell in the passenger side rear of my sparetire well. i removed the 3-4 inch center post in the well so i could lower my cell to the bottom. i run a breather line (aeroquip) to the rear and around to hook up w the sunroof waterdrain. i have a low alcohol sensor that runs forward. my alcohol output from the cell is on the front face of the cell and runs forward thru the well wall and turns at the rear crossmember. it runs laterally along the crossmember and turns thru it toward the pump. the pump is perfectly located just in front of the driver's side halfshaft and is shielded my the black plastic OEM panel. the output from the pump replaces the passengerside steel line that i dont use. (maybe the line to the charcoal canister?). it snaps into the OEM fittings and the plastic cover fits back over all the lines. it runs up along the fuel/brake lines and Y's (Nitros fitting) just below the elbow. my two M10 nozzles locate in the silicone coupler just infront of my elbow. all very tidy, almost OEM.
there are 3 electrical components.
the first is a small control unit that fits ontop of my steering between the wheel and dash. it is an on/off and a rate of progressive gain for the alcohol. there are 2 additional LEDs. one shows the pump is working and changes color w increasing (progressive boost) and the other is the low alcohol light. i mounted them on each side of my J&S gauge on the mounting bracket (also on the steering wheel plastic).
the second and third compnents mount near my battery in the passenger side compartment. one is the electrical controller heatsink. BTW, do you see any other AI systems with this component? it is very close to my battery and very close to the pump which is good electrically. the wire to my pump goes laterally over to the driverside compartment (which houses two Jacobs FC3000 amps) and them goes thru the floor by using the unused ABS sensor wire hole.
the third component is another control box that sets at what boost (from the 3 bar map sensor) alcohol starts and also at what pressure. in order to relocate the controller near the battery and pump i installed a nice relay. real nice and real cheap. it is the 40 amp OEM ABS relay.
i will eventually post pics. just a couple of other details.... all lines are stainless. all fittings are BRASS. how nicely engineered is the Alkycontrol kit? Julio sent me stainless steel replacement bolts for my fuel cell filler cap as stock are plated mild steel and don't get along with methanol. there is a trick filter for my air breather line and a methanol filter after the fuelpump.
the best way to get dialed in would be to review the 200 pages of threads on Turbobuick.com (Alcohol, Nitros and Propane Tech section). you'll find over 10,000 posts and numerous threads (especially Tuning) by a Julio who goes by "Razor."
give him a call as he is in Ray Crowe's league as to service.
howard coleman
first and foremost the integrity of the system is key. i spent 2 months researching AIs and after looking at all the failsafes found them each somewhat leaky. for instance a flow sensor triggering my boost controller to cut boost.... even though that might happen i am still left w the actuator spring pressure or about 10 psi.
since SYSTEM INTEGRITY IS KEY i concluded that it was of the utmost importance to deal with the party that had the most experience with alcohol, an offeree that used alcohol in the manner that i wished, which is to "tune-up" and use the increased hp/tq that alcohol offered. someone who could advise from direct experience as to tuning. it was a real bonus to find that the principle of the firm also was an Electrical Engineer as well as a racer. ( low 10 seconds, with a street driven 231 cu inch 2 valve V6 at 3450 pounds on pump and alcohol). there's lots of re-engineering on the pump and lots of thinking on the electrical components (including a separate heatsink) so as to decrease the possibility of a blown fuse.... which would be not good. i am absolutely delighted with my choice and i have a high degree of comfort in the build quality and components.... (Alkycontrol- Julio Don)
as to failsafe....i settled on a J&S Knock Sensor/IGL auto-retard. should i run into serious knock above a settable boost the IGL will retard as much as 10 degrees on the NEXT POWER IMPULSE. (i give up a few hp and purposely run 11 degrees split so as to not run into an IGT spark before IGL on full retard.) note: the J&S needs to be the one w the map sensor since you don't want retard in the vacuum area where you run zero split.
there are a number of LED and noise indicators but by the time that happens and you lift you are toast. yes it is nice to see them as monitors/confirmation but NO they will not save your engine in a catastrophic event.
BTW, i am really knocked out as to how my system installed. i run a 4 gallon Jaz fuelcell in the passenger side rear of my sparetire well. i removed the 3-4 inch center post in the well so i could lower my cell to the bottom. i run a breather line (aeroquip) to the rear and around to hook up w the sunroof waterdrain. i have a low alcohol sensor that runs forward. my alcohol output from the cell is on the front face of the cell and runs forward thru the well wall and turns at the rear crossmember. it runs laterally along the crossmember and turns thru it toward the pump. the pump is perfectly located just in front of the driver's side halfshaft and is shielded my the black plastic OEM panel. the output from the pump replaces the passengerside steel line that i dont use. (maybe the line to the charcoal canister?). it snaps into the OEM fittings and the plastic cover fits back over all the lines. it runs up along the fuel/brake lines and Y's (Nitros fitting) just below the elbow. my two M10 nozzles locate in the silicone coupler just infront of my elbow. all very tidy, almost OEM.
there are 3 electrical components.
the first is a small control unit that fits ontop of my steering between the wheel and dash. it is an on/off and a rate of progressive gain for the alcohol. there are 2 additional LEDs. one shows the pump is working and changes color w increasing (progressive boost) and the other is the low alcohol light. i mounted them on each side of my J&S gauge on the mounting bracket (also on the steering wheel plastic).
the second and third compnents mount near my battery in the passenger side compartment. one is the electrical controller heatsink. BTW, do you see any other AI systems with this component? it is very close to my battery and very close to the pump which is good electrically. the wire to my pump goes laterally over to the driverside compartment (which houses two Jacobs FC3000 amps) and them goes thru the floor by using the unused ABS sensor wire hole.
the third component is another control box that sets at what boost (from the 3 bar map sensor) alcohol starts and also at what pressure. in order to relocate the controller near the battery and pump i installed a nice relay. real nice and real cheap. it is the 40 amp OEM ABS relay.
i will eventually post pics. just a couple of other details.... all lines are stainless. all fittings are BRASS. how nicely engineered is the Alkycontrol kit? Julio sent me stainless steel replacement bolts for my fuel cell filler cap as stock are plated mild steel and don't get along with methanol. there is a trick filter for my air breather line and a methanol filter after the fuelpump.
the best way to get dialed in would be to review the 200 pages of threads on Turbobuick.com (Alcohol, Nitros and Propane Tech section). you'll find over 10,000 posts and numerous threads (especially Tuning) by a Julio who goes by "Razor."
give him a call as he is in Ray Crowe's league as to service.
howard coleman