Hey guys just wont to get your ideas and thoughts on aftermarket turbo manifolds.
Im currently in the prototype stages of bulk production manifolds made up for me here in NZ, Ive made a prototype out of mild steam pipe and we have jiged and copied it and have made the fiirst two out of stainless 314 steampipe 4.7mm thick,
If all goes to plain I intend to sell them online, auctions, clubs, and local distribution through shops.
I have just got of the phone from one of the local rotary shops and was told that tubular 1.6mm is sufficient, that there is no need for steampipe to be used.
Has anyone had any bad experience with those cheap tubular stlye manifold? or are they good enough and I am wasting my time producing thick wall manifolds. I have allways thought thick walled stainless was needed to prevent cracking on a 13b turbo application
Anyway any imput welcome!
cheers!

 

thicker is better. make sure you put large weld preps and gas purge them.

 

Call me at 707-696-2705 at your convenience, and I can help you. There is a huge pent up demand, but the design is very specific. Good luck with your project, Cheers, Carl Byck

 

I've seen some of these being sold on ebay and my concern is quality, fitment, and design. How are you going to tell your customes that they work good and they arnt going to break?>

 

If the gentleman calls me, I will provide him with detailed info on runner length, turbo position WG runner merge angles, and design, gusseting suggestions, etc. I am not sure why someone stateside witha TIG has not done this, there are good sources for SS pipe of the appropriate gauge, and the designs are not that complicated. Carl

 

Try it for himself on his personal car? Or a friends/customers?

 

thank you for your time, ideas and mostly your patience with me on the phone today Carl. It was a shame for the poor reception but definitely an informative conversation, very appreciative! It has definitely given me a better idea of what is desired by most, It seem that there are some alteration that may need to happen in order to get a more preferable design but nothing to drastic!
Cheers!

for those of you curious I will have some photos up shortly of the prototype, and I welcome all your input.

 

any photos yet ?

 

UHL://http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/oliver_franicevich/detail?.dir=6aac&.dnm=b92b.jpg&.src=ph//:uhl

 

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/oliver...2b.jpg&.src=ph

use bottom link, sorry! tried so many times, not having much luck.

 

 

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/oliver...vich/my_photos

use this link to my yahoo photo album. and pls let me know what you guys think.
cheers!

 

"The File You Are Looking For Is Inaccessible"

 

I like Madas....look good especially for a prototype! What that the final design with or without Carls input? If you finalize a good design i might grab one in the future if the price is right.

P.S. Does anybody know the the pro's/con's are of running a turbo with an undivided exhaust but the mating manifold is divided?

Also was that for a T2? I ask because I have a T2 swap in my 1st gen so my concern would be its proximity to the idler arm on my car.

 

I like the thick stuff for a few reasons. First is just because I'm not the best TIG welder, it's easier to TIG. Thick will last a lifetime. The thick cast elbows can be had for ~$5 a pop and has a great bend radius while the thiner tubing cost more and is hard to get in a radius as tight as the cast elbows. I think if you can get away with it the thinner stuff is better for performance though.

 

Would love to see a comparison of before and after dyno chart with only the manifold being changed. If it works I'M IN!!!

 

Thanks for the responce guys! This design was made before Carl's input so there will be some chages made, the wastegate header design will change so to improve flow and help minimize boost spikes, and we will modify the manifold slightly so that it will fit fd3s aswell, unfortunitly.... although it fits perfectly in an fc3s its a little tight in the fd by 10mm.
but since the fc ones are up and running we will still try and move these whilst redesigning the new one for both fc3s and fd. you can find them soon on ebay.

 

My basic suggestions were;
1- 12"14" equal length main runners.
2- ~50mm steam pipe, all piping
3-Two wastegate runners, merged to one
4- angle of incidence between main runners, and WG runners to be max 30* preferably as straight a shot as possible. Most likely pull WG runners off of thebottom/side of first bend so that you have a near straight shot to the WG from the mani mounting flange.
5- WG runners to be equal length+/-, and of roughly the same diameter as the main runners.
6- WG mounting flange offered as an add on, so that each customer can spec their own, and/or not pay for a flange they may already own.
7- turbo to be positioned low to mid(relative height in engine bay), and forward(avoiding interference from LIM, and strut tower), allowing use on both FC, and FD.

The conversation was at ~12:00 am while I was on my way to JGTC, so I hope all that came through on my Cell phone that evening.

Regards, and good luck, Carl

 

As for the question about divided manifolds, and non-divided turbos, almost all Supras run that way, so I don't think it will hurt you too much

 

Madas if you get a chance, test fit the newly designed manifold to an FB with a T2 13BT in it. I'd like to see the fitment of that if at all possible. Seeing where you live I dont think that would be much of a problem

And thanks Carl for your input.

 

You don't want to run a manifold that is made for a FD or a FC in a FB if the FB has the radiator mounted like factory. FD/FC manifolds will place the inlet of the compressor housing 2-3" from the back of the radiator. FB's can get away with a manifold that places the turbo more rearward.

 

yes ok! Ill see if i can sort something out