Lots of Smoke on Rebuild
#1
Lots of Smoke on Rebuild
Hi guys,
I could use a little advice.
I have prob an hour on my rebuild of idling and I get lots of smoke. The build is 13b-rew, BW6266, Stock Ports, Adaptronic ECU, ID1000/ID2000. I kept the OMP and I've added 1 ounce per 2 gallon of premix. (Maybe this is my prob?)
Smoke looks blue and gray to me. What do you guys think?
One curious thing is that if I set the Adaptronic to Adaptive tuning on Map 1, the RPM's jump up to ~3200 and stay. With Adaptive tuning set to off for map 1 it will idle around 1700 rpm at ~110 water temp so that seems about right.
Any suggestions on all the smoke?
Sorry about it being sideways..
VIDEO0014.mp4 Video by camajo | Photobucket
I could use a little advice.
I have prob an hour on my rebuild of idling and I get lots of smoke. The build is 13b-rew, BW6266, Stock Ports, Adaptronic ECU, ID1000/ID2000. I kept the OMP and I've added 1 ounce per 2 gallon of premix. (Maybe this is my prob?)
Smoke looks blue and gray to me. What do you guys think?
One curious thing is that if I set the Adaptronic to Adaptive tuning on Map 1, the RPM's jump up to ~3200 and stay. With Adaptive tuning set to off for map 1 it will idle around 1700 rpm at ~110 water temp so that seems about right.
Any suggestions on all the smoke?
Sorry about it being sideways..
VIDEO0014.mp4 Video by camajo | Photobucket
#2
#7
Turn the Self tuning off. You should be running in open loop until the motor is broken in. Lower your idle speed mechanically at the throttle body screws down to 1000-1200ish. If its a ball bearing turbo make sure you are using a .035" restrictor, journal bearings usually don't need one. Make sure the turbo is clocked properly ( oil feed on the top at no more than 25degree to center line), make sure you have at least a 1/2 drain with no kinks, or sharp turns. Make sure you're "crank" case vents are properly working. If you have a new exhaust system that can have oil in it which will take some time to burn off. If you are still using the OMP, try a tank without an premix while you break it in( make sure the ECU OMP settings are turned on).
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#8
Thanks. Turbo is clocked within 5 degrees and drain has a 'kink free' route. Mid pipe is new. As for the crank case, right now the nipples on the filler neck are open until I put in a catch can. I'll try the other stuff you mentioned. I'm told the PT6266 has internal restrictor. It is a ball bearing.
Turn the Self tuning off. You should be running in open loop until the motor is broken in. Lower your idle speed mechanically at the throttle body screws down to 1000-1200ish. If its a ball bearing turbo make sure you are using a .035" restrictor, journal bearings usually don't need one. Make sure the turbo is clocked properly ( oil feed on the top at no more than 25degree to center line), make sure you have at least a 1/2 drain with no kinks, or sharp turns. Make sure you're "crank" case vents are properly working. If you have a new exhaust system that can have oil in it which will take some time to burn off. If you are still using the OMP, try a tank without an premix while you break it in( make sure the ECU OMP settings are turned on).
#11
Update on this.. haven't done much with the car over the summer but I'm jumping back in. I did install an oil pressure regulator onto the oil feed. The car smokes regardless of how much or how little I allow through.
I did realize at one point that my crank case wasn't vented properly so I opened up the top filler neck nipple to the atmosphere to test.
Yesterday evening I let the car idle for a good 15 minutes and the smoking never let up. Last night I decided that I likely installed the oil control ring spring upside down (or something else internally is leaking oil) so I removed the turbo manifold. This morning I cranked the engine with no manifold and it still smokes heavily from the exhaust ports.
Here are pics of the ports. Looks like a lot of oil buildup to me.
At this point, I think its time to pull the engine and check the internals. Any other suggestions before I take the leap?
Front rotor exhaust port:
Rear rotor exhaust port:
I did realize at one point that my crank case wasn't vented properly so I opened up the top filler neck nipple to the atmosphere to test.
Yesterday evening I let the car idle for a good 15 minutes and the smoking never let up. Last night I decided that I likely installed the oil control ring spring upside down (or something else internally is leaking oil) so I removed the turbo manifold. This morning I cranked the engine with no manifold and it still smokes heavily from the exhaust ports.
Here are pics of the ports. Looks like a lot of oil buildup to me.
At this point, I think its time to pull the engine and check the internals. Any other suggestions before I take the leap?
Front rotor exhaust port:
Rear rotor exhaust port:
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