apneablue

Hey All,
So I was replacing my IC clamps with t-bolt clamps when I noticed the compressor housing turn just a little. then alot...I thought...Hmmm..When it was assembled and out of the car it didn't do that...Something tells me it's not supposed to turn like that. I have never installed or jacked with these before so I don't know where to look to tighten it up?

What do I do?

VIDEO

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

there are some bolts (possibly 6) on the back that hold the compressor housing on. There will be a piece of metal that goes through two bolts at a time. Tighten those.

You losen them to clock the turbo some times and to replace the housing.

apneablue

ok, they were all extremely loose...tightened and everything good...Much appreciated.

Poweraxel

if your compressor housing is loose, that can take out your compressor wheel! as the wheel will hit the compressor housing..

did you forget to tighten the compressor housing? theres bolts all around the diameter of the compressor housing that you need to tighten

apneablue

Thanks, got it taken care of...Wasn't much miles or boost on it before I noticed it so it should be fine.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

They will come lose again without a small amount of thread lock on there.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

It doesn’t break down at that tempature? And what color/ # do you recommend?

Do they have any recommended torques for the housing bolts, manifold, comp housing, exhaust, oil intake ?
What is recommended by garret?
And what do you guys use for the GT35R?

Also do you guys carry the associated gaskets for these turbos? are they in stock? cost?

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Also do you guys have a ceramic coating service? Which process do you use?
Cost for manifold DP and turbo housing?

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

apneablue, what did you use for all the torque specs?

apneablue

Good and tight

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Ya that’s about what I would have thought, I didn’t get anything specifying what it is recommended to be at. I was kinda hoping Sean or somebody had a good idea of where it should be.

It seems like a fairly important place to have a correct torque at seeing as there are gaskets and huge temperature swings. Most things with these conditions NEED correct torque in these areas to not break and seal correctly.

I have had problems in this area on other things.

Fortunately they built very thick flanges into everything

If you do see this, could you guys comment on any of the above mentioned questions.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

That and I am currently trying to track down a apparent leak at one of the connections or contamination of outside air to my WBO2.

I havnt been able to figure out why as all my joints look good and was wondering if maybe one of the joints are not tight enough for some reason.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Use locktite