I am a bit unsure of where im supposed to align the marks inside the distributor when i tack weld it to lock it. I know there are little hash marks that look like they are indicating degrees or whatnot. do i align them center to center of leadind and trailing? after i figure that out where do i tack the whole inside in relation to the distributor itself? thanks

 

I have one for sale that is done already. $100 shipped to your door.

 

i have two distributors dont need another just need to know how to lock it for positive thanks

 

I would look in the 1st gen section. this may help some: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/how-lock-distributor-902792/

 

Get down to the weights. They need to be welded in the normal resting position ("IN") so that they cannot swing out as the rpm comes up.

 

they can move freely to any position you want when nothing is connected.. there isn't one position that they seem to stay at or want to rest at.

 

You don't need to weld the weights, just remove the springs and they'll stay all the way out. If you want to weld them weld them all the way out so if the weld breaks it can't advance the timing any farther.

 

isnt the trailing supposed to be a certain degree off of the leading? that will change the position of the distributor for the same timing then. will the distributor need to me moved a tooth at all or will i still be able to get to the reccomended degre of advancement where its at. or am i way off and it doesnt advance that far?

 

It's not enough of a timing difference to matter, just remove the springs, cap the vacuum ports, and set timing close to stock. The mechanical advance turns the rotor, so it doesn't affect leading/trailing split, I move trailing a few degrees closer to the leading.

 

Could somebody post a pic a please?

 

I removed the vacuum advance actuators. So I dont know now.

 

Does anyone know what degrees the leading and trailing are supposed to be separated to be in relation to each other?

 

Should be 8degs for a 12a, 10degs for a 13b

 

are you saying 8, and 10 degrees of separation between leading and trailing or 8 to 10 degrees of total timing?


thanks

 

there's a thread in the single turbo FAQ on running 0 degrees split.

 

ok, what you really need to do, if you haven't already, is figure out how the distributor actually works.

you'll notice please that there is a 4 tooth trigger wheel, and a leading pickup and a trailing pickup. the distributor, runs at half engine speed, so essentially 4 teeth = one trigger every 180 degrees.

the cap and rotor choose either rotor #1 or rotor #2.

the distributor (like almost all distributors) has mechanical advance and vacuum advance. these work independently of each other.

the vacuum advance is worth keeping, as when you are cruising you actually want it, and B it located the pickups, without it they can just flop around...

the mechanical advance, in a turbo car is the one that gets locked out. stock timing is like TDC at idle and advances to 20BTDC, which is more than we want, its much simpler to just eliminate the mechanical advance, and just run 10BTDC (just to pick a number) all the time

the simplest way to achieve this is just to remove the advance springs. this way instead of getting full advance by 3500rpm (or where ever) you get full advance as soon as the engine starts moving. its also easy to reverse, if you decided to join the 20th century.

there are other ways to do it, but then you have to pay attention to the alignment of the cap and rotor buttons, and the pickups and stuff.

with piston engines its really common to put different springs or change the amount of advance the distributor has, which is something the rotary people never do

 

All that i would like to know is how many degrees the leading and trailing should be apart? Or should they at all?

 

I wouldn't run any less than 10 degrees separation between leading and trailing on this type of turbo application.

 

ok so is 10 degrees separation good then or would like 12 or more be better?
thanks i really appreciate the help. im getting almost there. pretty soon i will actually be able to start it. then the real fun comes with tuning... no one seems to have experience tuning a turboed carbed rotary...

 

Well i shouldn't say that... In this area no one seems to...

 

anywhere between 10 and 15 degrees should be ok. Technically you may make slightly less power with more separation between leading and trailing, but on any carb'd turbo setup I think goal #1 is to keep the motor together. As you're finding out, without computer controlled spark advance you have to make a lot of tradeoffs.

 

Yeah i do see that now. I f would have known then what i know now i would have just went Fuel injection. Ho well theres always the future! Thank you very much for the advice!

 

agreed. preferably 15....

mechanically if you keep the vacuum advances, then you can actually adjust this.

 

thats 15 degrees difference is 15 degrees on the indicator marks on the inside of the distributor right?

 

no 15 degrees at the engine when its running.

oh BTW you should make some timing marks on your pulley if you havent already