Knowledge, Experience and Serious Opinions needed
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
Knowledge, Experience and Serious Opinions needed
Hi there Guys,
Well First of all sorry for my poor English,
I just need your help on this. My car is 99+ spec fd and is sitting around 1and a half years now. The reason was a blown apex seal. All this time I made o lot of very serious plants about a setup for my needs. So i allready throw a lot of money on this and now I really need your help from all of you and your knowledge and experience. I will need serious Opinions on what you like and what you dont. How much whp I can make, what fuel pressures are correct, boost pressures, even opinions about where I can find some good maps through net for tuning for my setup.
Ok my mods now are,
1) 13B New rebuilt engine with pineapple street port and exhaust ports opened. Rotary aviation full rebuilt kit with the water o-rings upgraded + black super apex seals. Crankshaft , irons, housings are used in good condition + new rotors straight from Mazda Japan. All bearings of shaft and rotors new. Polished inlet of throttle and greddy elbow
2) HKS t4 V band single turbo short manifold.
3) Trust Greddy 46mm wastegate
4) Greddy type rs blowoff
5) Garrett Vband Gt4088 journal modified by YIYITO with A/R hot side 1.05 cold side .65
6) Kg parts fuel rails for front and rear with 2 x 120 lb Lucas low resistance injectors front and 2 x 160lb Bosch low resistance injectors rear. 4 resistors and Aeromotive regulator.
7) Twin stock fd nipondenso fuel pump setup with 8AN supply line stock 6AN return line. Rewired for 13+ volts each. Is it better for single Bosch044 setup?
8) Power FC z0006 with commander
9) 3bar map sensor
10) Apexi boost control for power fc or profec b spec 2? Or any other better?
11) AEM water methanol injection. I will use water.
12) Hks twin power
13) OS GIGEN twin plate clutch
14) Hks 10 core intercooler. The intercooler is for front down placement but after Ill finish I will make the room for v mount setup
15) Straight 3.5 exhaust downpipe from front to the rear Japanese custom made dual tip 3 racing end
16) Racing polyurethane engine mounts from Japan
17) Ngk iridium spark plugs R6754 Racing 2 x 9 and 2 x 11
All about handling are:
18) 2 x work cr kai 8.5 with yokohama advan ad07 235x40x 17 front and 2 x work cr kai 9.5 with yokohama advan ad07 265x35x 18 rear
19) Autoexe tower brace set kit for gearbox to sashi and for rear stock lsd to sashi
20) Autoexe full brake kit with divided 2 piece disk
21) Greddy Red suspension with Damper Remote Controller unit
22) 2 x Racing Japanese outer steering tie rods + 2 racing ball joints.
All what I can think for now are all these. 99% already got them. If I remember for anything else I will post it. Well what are your opinions for this setup? What is good and what is bad or wrong for this? How much whp and torque I can make on what boost and fuel and WMI pressures?
All help will be appreciated and useful.
Thank you all
What is the best tuning maps for these and where I can find them through web? I mean who is the right person too tune my car through web for this setup?
Well First of all sorry for my poor English,
I just need your help on this. My car is 99+ spec fd and is sitting around 1and a half years now. The reason was a blown apex seal. All this time I made o lot of very serious plants about a setup for my needs. So i allready throw a lot of money on this and now I really need your help from all of you and your knowledge and experience. I will need serious Opinions on what you like and what you dont. How much whp I can make, what fuel pressures are correct, boost pressures, even opinions about where I can find some good maps through net for tuning for my setup.
Ok my mods now are,
1) 13B New rebuilt engine with pineapple street port and exhaust ports opened. Rotary aviation full rebuilt kit with the water o-rings upgraded + black super apex seals. Crankshaft , irons, housings are used in good condition + new rotors straight from Mazda Japan. All bearings of shaft and rotors new. Polished inlet of throttle and greddy elbow
2) HKS t4 V band single turbo short manifold.
3) Trust Greddy 46mm wastegate
4) Greddy type rs blowoff
5) Garrett Vband Gt4088 journal modified by YIYITO with A/R hot side 1.05 cold side .65
6) Kg parts fuel rails for front and rear with 2 x 120 lb Lucas low resistance injectors front and 2 x 160lb Bosch low resistance injectors rear. 4 resistors and Aeromotive regulator.
7) Twin stock fd nipondenso fuel pump setup with 8AN supply line stock 6AN return line. Rewired for 13+ volts each. Is it better for single Bosch044 setup?
8) Power FC z0006 with commander
9) 3bar map sensor
10) Apexi boost control for power fc or profec b spec 2? Or any other better?
11) AEM water methanol injection. I will use water.
12) Hks twin power
13) OS GIGEN twin plate clutch
14) Hks 10 core intercooler. The intercooler is for front down placement but after Ill finish I will make the room for v mount setup
15) Straight 3.5 exhaust downpipe from front to the rear Japanese custom made dual tip 3 racing end
16) Racing polyurethane engine mounts from Japan
17) Ngk iridium spark plugs R6754 Racing 2 x 9 and 2 x 11
All about handling are:
18) 2 x work cr kai 8.5 with yokohama advan ad07 235x40x 17 front and 2 x work cr kai 9.5 with yokohama advan ad07 265x35x 18 rear
19) Autoexe tower brace set kit for gearbox to sashi and for rear stock lsd to sashi
20) Autoexe full brake kit with divided 2 piece disk
21) Greddy Red suspension with Damper Remote Controller unit
22) 2 x Racing Japanese outer steering tie rods + 2 racing ball joints.
All what I can think for now are all these. 99% already got them. If I remember for anything else I will post it. Well what are your opinions for this setup? What is good and what is bad or wrong for this? How much whp and torque I can make on what boost and fuel and WMI pressures?
All help will be appreciated and useful.
Thank you all
What is the best tuning maps for these and where I can find them through web? I mean who is the right person too tune my car through web for this setup?
How do you plan on modifying the GT4088 for vband turbine housing? Even if you do find a vband turbine housing for it, I'm not sure it will fit that turbo manifold( compressor housing might not clear LIM/frame rail).
Swap just the secondaries for ID2000s, leave primaries stock or swap to EV14 550cc.
Bosch Fuel Injectors ft. Bosch ev14 & High Impedance Injectors
Injector Dynamics ID2000 - Turblown Engineering
Swap the PFC for this unit;
Adaptronic Series 6/7 Rx-7 Plug and Play - Turblown Engineering
Swap just the secondaries for ID2000s, leave primaries stock or swap to EV14 550cc.
Bosch Fuel Injectors ft. Bosch ev14 & High Impedance Injectors
Injector Dynamics ID2000 - Turblown Engineering
Swap the PFC for this unit;
Adaptronic Series 6/7 Rx-7 Plug and Play - Turblown Engineering
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
Dear Turblown,
Thank you for your help. Well the injectors, rails and power fc are something that I already have. I can’t wait any longer to sell them and go for some other better products like your very good opinion.
Now about the manifold I mean is divided and also the turbo hot side manifold is also divided. They are exactly the same. What is your opinion on whp / torque I can have with this setup in what pressure boost and fuel?
Thank you again
Thank you for your help. Well the injectors, rails and power fc are something that I already have. I can’t wait any longer to sell them and go for some other better products like your very good opinion.
Now about the manifold I mean is divided and also the turbo hot side manifold is also divided. They are exactly the same. What is your opinion on whp / torque I can have with this setup in what pressure boost and fuel?
Thank you again
Its an easy 500rwhp turbo. One of our customers makes 550rwhp around 25+psi( IIRC).
I would also swap the twin power for a the AEM coils. First and foremost get the car running though
.
I would also swap the twin power for a the AEM coils. First and foremost get the car running though
.
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
Thats nice. How about the porting setup. The rebuilt is about to finish now only assembly left from the proffessional. Well is it better to leave all the ports stock?Only porting inlet? Porting both inlet and outlet? Looking for higher power with better turbo spoolup.
Thanks
Thanks
Thats nice. How about the porting setup. The rebuilt is about to finish now only assembly left from the proffessional. Well is it better to leave all the ports stock?Only porting inlet? Porting both inlet and outlet? Looking for higher power with better turbo spoolup.
Thanks
Thanks
On the stock end, you get good low rpm torque, and out of boost drivability will be great, as well as fuel economy.
on the most extreme end of porting, you'll have faster spool times, more power for the same amount of boost, and depending on how wild you get, you can actually shift the power-band up or down.
personally if the motor is open, you'll find me touching it up with my personal use port. it's intake opening gets 5 degrees more. the closing gets 2-3 degrees.
the exhaust use stock closing, and maybe open 1-3 degrees more, but widening, and most importantly smooth all of the ports..... this won't have as much power gain as others' streetports, but i've observed no drawbacks. all my turbo engines get this, and the N/a engines get this at least..
i've driven a few different "streetports" with all of them removing more then my own ports. feel free to use a racingbeat, atkins, mazdatrix, pineapple street port templates.
you said you want spool? port the exhaust like i said, it will keep the velocity high, but MAY begin to choke at the upper end.
http://www.turborx7.com/porttiming.htm for a better understanding.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
Likes: 728
From: Florence, Alabama
Hi Mike,
first off you needn't apologize for your english as i doubt many on this board could converse w you in your native tongue...
how do you use your car? a lot of the answers to your questions will vary based on your objectives.
the turbo you have is a midrange turbo, as Elliot says good for 72 pounds per minute at 26 psi boost. that would be 542 SAE rw rotary hp.
there may be a problem w the manifold and the turbo fit-wise (as Elliot mentions) so you will want to check it out. if it will fit it would work fine on your FD.
as to porting, i am confused... it seemed from your first post that they are done, Pineapple etc... then on a later post you ask as to whether you should port the motor. i would say first and foremost that it depends on the person doing the porting. is he a rotary guy? has he ported rotaries? it is possible to end up behind where you start if the porting is not done correctly. it is more than following a template and is too lengthy a subject for my post. stock ports on the FD were vastly uprated from prior rotaries so they work pretty well, especially when you have a turbo JAMMING the air through them. if you are not really comfortable w whomever is going to do the work i would pass.
profec B spec 2 works well and is a simple system.
if you plan to road race the car do not run a front mount intercooler. i prefer stock location and the Pettit CoolCharge is my top pick. many do run V mounts.
17 inch wheels front, 18 rear? hmmm. if you plan on road racing the car pls read post one of my sticky thread in the suspension section.
you should easily be able to get a fairly decent map for your Power FC on this site... i can send you one if you wish PM me. free.
what caused your previous motor to, uh, expire?
howard
first off you needn't apologize for your english as i doubt many on this board could converse w you in your native tongue...
how do you use your car? a lot of the answers to your questions will vary based on your objectives.
the turbo you have is a midrange turbo, as Elliot says good for 72 pounds per minute at 26 psi boost. that would be 542 SAE rw rotary hp.
there may be a problem w the manifold and the turbo fit-wise (as Elliot mentions) so you will want to check it out. if it will fit it would work fine on your FD.
as to porting, i am confused... it seemed from your first post that they are done, Pineapple etc... then on a later post you ask as to whether you should port the motor. i would say first and foremost that it depends on the person doing the porting. is he a rotary guy? has he ported rotaries? it is possible to end up behind where you start if the porting is not done correctly. it is more than following a template and is too lengthy a subject for my post. stock ports on the FD were vastly uprated from prior rotaries so they work pretty well, especially when you have a turbo JAMMING the air through them. if you are not really comfortable w whomever is going to do the work i would pass.
profec B spec 2 works well and is a simple system.
if you plan to road race the car do not run a front mount intercooler. i prefer stock location and the Pettit CoolCharge is my top pick. many do run V mounts.
17 inch wheels front, 18 rear? hmmm. if you plan on road racing the car pls read post one of my sticky thread in the suspension section.
you should easily be able to get a fairly decent map for your Power FC on this site... i can send you one if you wish PM me. free.
what caused your previous motor to, uh, expire?
howard
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Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
Thanks Eliot
I think Elliot will agree. porting is always a compromise.
On the stock end, you get good low rpm torque, and out of boost drivability will be great, as well as fuel economy.
on the most extreme end of porting, you'll have faster spool times, more power for the same amount of boost, and depending on how wild you get, you can actually shift the power-band up or down.
personally if the motor is open, you'll find me touching it up with my personal use port. it's intake opening gets 5 degrees more. the closing gets 2-3 degrees.
the exhaust use stock closing, and maybe open 1-3 degrees more, but widening, and most importantly smooth all of the ports..... this won't have as much power gain as others' streetports, but i've observed no drawbacks. all my turbo engines get this, and the N/a engines get this at least..
i've driven a few different "streetports" with all of them removing more then my own ports. feel free to use a racingbeat, atkins, mazdatrix, pineapple street port templates.
you said you want spool? port the exhaust like i said, it will keep the velocity high, but MAY begin to choke at the upper end.
TurboRX7.com > Port Timing Basics for a better understanding.
On the stock end, you get good low rpm torque, and out of boost drivability will be great, as well as fuel economy.
on the most extreme end of porting, you'll have faster spool times, more power for the same amount of boost, and depending on how wild you get, you can actually shift the power-band up or down.
personally if the motor is open, you'll find me touching it up with my personal use port. it's intake opening gets 5 degrees more. the closing gets 2-3 degrees.
the exhaust use stock closing, and maybe open 1-3 degrees more, but widening, and most importantly smooth all of the ports..... this won't have as much power gain as others' streetports, but i've observed no drawbacks. all my turbo engines get this, and the N/a engines get this at least..
i've driven a few different "streetports" with all of them removing more then my own ports. feel free to use a racingbeat, atkins, mazdatrix, pineapple street port templates.
you said you want spool? port the exhaust like i said, it will keep the velocity high, but MAY begin to choke at the upper end.
TurboRX7.com > Port Timing Basics for a better understanding.
Thank you for your helpfull knwoledge.
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
Thank you Howard
Hi Mike,
first off you needn't apologize for your english as i doubt many on this board could converse w you in your native tongue...
how do you use your car? a lot of the answers to your questions will vary based on your objectives.
the turbo you have is a midrange turbo, as Elliot says good for 72 pounds per minute at 26 psi boost. that would be 542 SAE rw rotary hp.
there may be a problem w the manifold and the turbo fit-wise (as Elliot mentions) so you will want to check it out. if it will fit it would work fine on your FD.
as to porting, i am confused... it seemed from your first post that they are done, Pineapple etc... then on a later post you ask as to whether you should port the motor. i would say first and foremost that it depends on the person doing the porting. is he a rotary guy? has he ported rotaries? it is possible to end up behind where you start if the porting is not done correctly. it is more than following a template and is too lengthy a subject for my post. stock ports on the FD were vastly uprated from prior rotaries so they work pretty well, especially when you have a turbo JAMMING the air through them. if you are not really comfortable w whomever is going to do the work i would pass.
profec B spec 2 works well and is a simple system.
if you plan to road race the car do not run a front mount intercooler. i prefer stock location and the Pettit CoolCharge is my top pick. many do run V mounts.
17 inch wheels front, 18 rear? hmmm. if you plan on road racing the car pls read post one of my sticky thread in the suspension section.
you should easily be able to get a fairly decent map for your Power FC on this site... i can send you one if you wish PM me. free.
what caused your previous motor to, uh, expire?
howard
first off you needn't apologize for your english as i doubt many on this board could converse w you in your native tongue...
how do you use your car? a lot of the answers to your questions will vary based on your objectives.
the turbo you have is a midrange turbo, as Elliot says good for 72 pounds per minute at 26 psi boost. that would be 542 SAE rw rotary hp.
there may be a problem w the manifold and the turbo fit-wise (as Elliot mentions) so you will want to check it out. if it will fit it would work fine on your FD.
as to porting, i am confused... it seemed from your first post that they are done, Pineapple etc... then on a later post you ask as to whether you should port the motor. i would say first and foremost that it depends on the person doing the porting. is he a rotary guy? has he ported rotaries? it is possible to end up behind where you start if the porting is not done correctly. it is more than following a template and is too lengthy a subject for my post. stock ports on the FD were vastly uprated from prior rotaries so they work pretty well, especially when you have a turbo JAMMING the air through them. if you are not really comfortable w whomever is going to do the work i would pass.
profec B spec 2 works well and is a simple system.
if you plan to road race the car do not run a front mount intercooler. i prefer stock location and the Pettit CoolCharge is my top pick. many do run V mounts.
17 inch wheels front, 18 rear? hmmm. if you plan on road racing the car pls read post one of my sticky thread in the suspension section.
you should easily be able to get a fairly decent map for your Power FC on this site... i can send you one if you wish PM me. free.
what caused your previous motor to, uh, expire?
howard
Well what i want is to use my car only weekends both for riding and street racing. i might run some race events some times .maby.
As for my turbo is costommade from YIYITO the puerto rico guy and i dont know enough from him. Well my goal is to hit 600whp with this setup. What is your opinion on this?Is that possible with stock port or should i need streetport? I Like to have as much as i can get low rpm spoolup with e good torque from low to high.
About my manifold i pick the short HKS and i can attach pisture of it if you like well if its better for you to understand and help me.
About the intercooler yes its a front mount the big 10cm core of hks but i'm planning to make room to fit it to the stock place.
My previous motor rises boost unexpected due to wastegate pipe failure and i didnt realize soon enough so that made a broken stock apex seal.
My previous setup was.
Stock engine
xs engineering vband t4 fully rebuilt with diferrent degrees compressor wheel
sard regulator
stock fuel injectors
walbro 255lph
3" downpipe from front to rear
3" top end exaust
Power fc
Manage to make 380whp and the incredible 38kg torque
Thank you for your helpfull knwoledge.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
Likes: 728
From: Florence, Alabama
Mike,
everything has to be just right to make 600 hp given the fact that the motor is 1.3 liters.
first off, your turbo will not make 600.
here's what Garrett says the GT4088 (journal bearing) will do... 73 pounds
the ball bearing GT4088r makes less, around 67.
it takes 80 pounds per minute to make 600 and neither of the two GT4088s makes 80.
as i previously posted and as Elliot has also posted, the GT4088s are good for around 540 and that is TOPS.
IF you really want 600 i recommend the GT4094r. it is much more compact than the GT4294r and flows within 7% of the GT42. it also makes 80 pounds.
hp is about airflow and compressor maps tell the story.
that having been said... have you ever driven a 500 hp FD? 500 will dust just about anything on a road course and much of what you find on the street. (though i confess i don't know what you have on the street in your country.)
i think you will be very happy w your turbo once it is up and running and recommend you stick w it.
on to the next subject, FUEL.
just as it takes air to make HP it takes fuel. alot of fuel to make hp.
for instance, you should have 6341 CC/Minute of gross fuel availability to make 600.
here's how i get to that number:
600 rotary rwhp requires 1152 CFM of air which is 80 pounds of air per minute.
you want enough fuel to run 10.0 AFR at 600. not to say you should tune at 10.0 but you will be in the neighborhood.
80 pounds per minute of air
8 pounds per minute of fuel
10 to 1
8/6.35 (a gallon of gas weighs 6.35 pounds) is 1.26 gallons of gas per minute to do 600 hp.
1.26 GPM is 4770 CC/Minute.
you need to run your injectors at no more than 85% of max
4770 X 1.176 = 5611 CC/Min
you have 13% deliverability slippage due to injector lag
5611 X 1.13 = 6341 CC/Min
you have 2 120 pound/hr injectors and 2 160 pound/hour injectors or
5950 CC/Min.
you are close to being o k on fuel at 43.5 static rail pressure providing your fuel system is 100%. i strongly recommend you log fuel pressure w your datalogit. easy, inexpensive (all you need is a $100 100 PSI pressure sensor) and provides the answer as to your system.
and speaking of fuel pressure...
your prior engine failure.
you say you ran stock injectors and made 380 hp? not for long. stock injectors at 11.5 AFR are good for 324 hp. that would explain your broken apex seal. this assumes you were not running elevated fuel pressure to compensate. just remember that delivery only goes up w the square root of the increase in pressure.
in other words, if you raise fuel pressure 25% you only get 11.8% more fuel.
Pineapple has a number of differing templates and if he does a good job i suggest them. do not raise the close on the exhaust port.
if you do any drag racing from a stop i suggest you replace the FD LSD as the spider gears were designed for road racing and are fragile. if they break they will take the entire differential, case and all out. any plate type limited slip will work fine and solve the problem. i run the T2 LSD.
howard
everything has to be just right to make 600 hp given the fact that the motor is 1.3 liters.
first off, your turbo will not make 600.
here's what Garrett says the GT4088 (journal bearing) will do... 73 pounds
the ball bearing GT4088r makes less, around 67.
it takes 80 pounds per minute to make 600 and neither of the two GT4088s makes 80.
as i previously posted and as Elliot has also posted, the GT4088s are good for around 540 and that is TOPS.
IF you really want 600 i recommend the GT4094r. it is much more compact than the GT4294r and flows within 7% of the GT42. it also makes 80 pounds.
hp is about airflow and compressor maps tell the story.
that having been said... have you ever driven a 500 hp FD? 500 will dust just about anything on a road course and much of what you find on the street. (though i confess i don't know what you have on the street in your country.)
i think you will be very happy w your turbo once it is up and running and recommend you stick w it.
on to the next subject, FUEL.
just as it takes air to make HP it takes fuel. alot of fuel to make hp.
for instance, you should have 6341 CC/Minute of gross fuel availability to make 600.
here's how i get to that number:
600 rotary rwhp requires 1152 CFM of air which is 80 pounds of air per minute.
you want enough fuel to run 10.0 AFR at 600. not to say you should tune at 10.0 but you will be in the neighborhood.
80 pounds per minute of air
8 pounds per minute of fuel
10 to 1
8/6.35 (a gallon of gas weighs 6.35 pounds) is 1.26 gallons of gas per minute to do 600 hp.
1.26 GPM is 4770 CC/Minute.
you need to run your injectors at no more than 85% of max
4770 X 1.176 = 5611 CC/Min
you have 13% deliverability slippage due to injector lag
5611 X 1.13 = 6341 CC/Min
you have 2 120 pound/hr injectors and 2 160 pound/hour injectors or
5950 CC/Min.
you are close to being o k on fuel at 43.5 static rail pressure providing your fuel system is 100%. i strongly recommend you log fuel pressure w your datalogit. easy, inexpensive (all you need is a $100 100 PSI pressure sensor) and provides the answer as to your system.
and speaking of fuel pressure...
your prior engine failure.
you say you ran stock injectors and made 380 hp? not for long. stock injectors at 11.5 AFR are good for 324 hp. that would explain your broken apex seal. this assumes you were not running elevated fuel pressure to compensate. just remember that delivery only goes up w the square root of the increase in pressure.
in other words, if you raise fuel pressure 25% you only get 11.8% more fuel.
Pineapple has a number of differing templates and if he does a good job i suggest them. do not raise the close on the exhaust port.
if you do any drag racing from a stop i suggest you replace the FD LSD as the spider gears were designed for road racing and are fragile. if they break they will take the entire differential, case and all out. any plate type limited slip will work fine and solve the problem. i run the T2 LSD.
howard
Use FFE fuel rails instead of the kg parts rails if someone hasn't mentioned that already.
The blitz boost controllers are the best on the market from what i hear from the people who have used them and compared with others. I'm sure the greddy unit would work great but I hear nothing but good things about blitz.
I would personally use tial products for wastegate and BOV but thats personal opinion and im sure what you selected would work fine.
For the exhaust mani, stick with short runner, and divided T4. That sort of eliminates the v-band option if you're set on the 4088. Also, look into having one fabricated vs. going with a big name HKS/greddy one.
I would suggest a different water injection kit than aem. I had one and i just felt like the kit was "cheap".. i unno.. there is a vendor on here who makes some nice preturbo kits here.
Whats the timeframe of this project?
The blitz boost controllers are the best on the market from what i hear from the people who have used them and compared with others. I'm sure the greddy unit would work great but I hear nothing but good things about blitz.
I would personally use tial products for wastegate and BOV but thats personal opinion and im sure what you selected would work fine.
For the exhaust mani, stick with short runner, and divided T4. That sort of eliminates the v-band option if you're set on the 4088. Also, look into having one fabricated vs. going with a big name HKS/greddy one.
I would suggest a different water injection kit than aem. I had one and i just felt like the kit was "cheap".. i unno.. there is a vendor on here who makes some nice preturbo kits here.
Whats the timeframe of this project?
Last edited by Mitchocalypse; Jan 28, 2013 at 09:49 PM.
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
Updated
Just to keep this tread alive and updated Im writing down some new purchases that I made since lot people here that advise me had different opinion for some better parts instead on what I was already thinking of installing for my setup. Also some pictures of the heart of my babe.
First of all i would like to THANKS everybody in here that helped me very much with my Built, especially my friend HOWARD COLEMAN which keeps me updated all the time. This man is something like SCIENTIST MECHANIC ENGINEER all in one package. You all have lot of knowledge than even lot of rotary specialty shops "professionals" in our days.
Now about the mods that changed:
1) I was going for twin power HKS. Now its gone since I purchase 4 x AEM smart coils with the built in igniter (connectors included). If you are in place to make the harness by yourself then you can buy them from Summit racing since they can offer price Mach guarantee. Great support super-fast shipping.
2) Also 8 AN inlet outlet Summit Racing 40 microns anodized fuel filter.
3) Ngk iridium spark plugs R6754 Racing 2 x 9 and 2 x 11 are now gone since I purchase 4 x Ngk iridium spark plugs R6725 Racing 4 x 10.5
4) Thoughts for AEM WMI system gone since I bought a Coolingmist WMI system with electronic controller. Great reviews from a lot of guys. Great support super-fast shipping
5) 2 x 120 lb Lucas low resistance injectors front and 2 x 160lb Bosch low resistance injectors rear + 4 resistors are gone since I purchase 2 x 1000cc ID high Impedance injectors for primary and 2 x 2000cc ID high impedance injectors for secondary. Buy from Fuel Injector Connection. They offer me recharged of my Bosch and lucas injectors since there were brand new never used. Great support super-fast shipping.
6) Thoughts for BOOST Controller ends when I purchase a GREDDY PROFEC BSPEC II
7) Thoughts for Twin stock fd nipondenso fuel pump setup ends and I purchase one AEROMOTIVE STEALTH pump also from Fuel Injector Connection.
8) Thought about LSD ends and I purchase KAAZ 1.5 WAY LSD. I will keep my ratio to 4.3.
9) Purchase HPI engine Dumper
10) Purchase Blitz fuel filter.
11) Purchase and installed 71 degrees C thermostat.
All other mods stays as it was.
Since the rebuilt of the engine is now finish, I have a lot of work to do now to the engine bay since these mods have to take place.
1) Battery relocation
2) Radiator and intercooler custom V mount setup
3) Boost controller installation
4) WMI system installation
5) Rewire of fuel pump
6) New 8AN supply and return fuel lines
7) New custom downpipe and midpipe
8) New custom intercooler pipes
I will keep update this tread once and a while since I dont have the full time for my project. I hope this tread to be helpful for a lot of people in here looking for the same or similar setup.
I want to thank you all again for your opinions and advice.
First of all i would like to THANKS everybody in here that helped me very much with my Built, especially my friend HOWARD COLEMAN which keeps me updated all the time. This man is something like SCIENTIST MECHANIC ENGINEER all in one package
. You all have lot of knowledge than even lot of rotary specialty shops "professionals" in our days.Now about the mods that changed:
1) I was going for twin power HKS. Now its gone since I purchase 4 x AEM smart coils with the built in igniter (connectors included). If you are in place to make the harness by yourself then you can buy them from Summit racing since they can offer price Mach guarantee. Great support super-fast shipping.
2) Also 8 AN inlet outlet Summit Racing 40 microns anodized fuel filter.
3) Ngk iridium spark plugs R6754 Racing 2 x 9 and 2 x 11 are now gone since I purchase 4 x Ngk iridium spark plugs R6725 Racing 4 x 10.5
4) Thoughts for AEM WMI system gone since I bought a Coolingmist WMI system with electronic controller. Great reviews from a lot of guys. Great support super-fast shipping
5) 2 x 120 lb Lucas low resistance injectors front and 2 x 160lb Bosch low resistance injectors rear + 4 resistors are gone since I purchase 2 x 1000cc ID high Impedance injectors for primary and 2 x 2000cc ID high impedance injectors for secondary. Buy from Fuel Injector Connection. They offer me recharged of my Bosch and lucas injectors since there were brand new never used. Great support super-fast shipping.
6) Thoughts for BOOST Controller ends when I purchase a GREDDY PROFEC BSPEC II
7) Thoughts for Twin stock fd nipondenso fuel pump setup ends and I purchase one AEROMOTIVE STEALTH pump also from Fuel Injector Connection.
8) Thought about LSD ends and I purchase KAAZ 1.5 WAY LSD. I will keep my ratio to 4.3.
9) Purchase HPI engine Dumper
10) Purchase Blitz fuel filter.
11) Purchase and installed 71 degrees C thermostat.
All other mods stays as it was.
Since the rebuilt of the engine is now finish, I have a lot of work to do now to the engine bay since these mods have to take place.
1) Battery relocation
2) Radiator and intercooler custom V mount setup
3) Boost controller installation
4) WMI system installation
5) Rewire of fuel pump
6) New 8AN supply and return fuel lines
7) New custom downpipe and midpipe
8) New custom intercooler pipes
I will keep update this tread once and a while since I dont have the full time for my project. I hope this tread to be helpful for a lot of people in here looking for the same or similar setup.
I want to thank you all again for your opinions and advice.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
A few comments.... I'd get rid of the 71C thermostat and run the standard one. Zero reason to go that cold. Also, the Profec Spec II is not user friendly at all... IMO you're much better off with an older Spec B or the 'newer' Spec S.
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
. Well the reason i choose that thermostat it's because in my country on summer period we have up to 45-50 Degrees C in sun. Well imagine driving with those temperatures during traffic lights. Well this is something that concerns me but on the other hand i think my fans will probably work all time without stop?
The reason i went with the Profec b spec II its because lot of people have them installed with out any issues (reliable units) and i found one in excellent price.
I read somewhere that you have a gt4088 setup too? Do you still have it? What is your opinion on my setup?
Thank you Again
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
I've never run that particular turbo on my personal car. It all comes down to boost and power goals as well as intended use.... Garrett turbos are a good choice IMO
Apologies if I didn't reply to any past PMs. Sometimes my PM inbox is on fire I get so many of them due to the moderation responsibilities here on the site.
Re: cooling, that T-stat won't help all that much. Focus on your radiator size... what are you planning to run? Look into the FC thermoswitch, which will turn the OEM fans on 'High' speed much sooner (IIRC 95 C vs 107 C, a huge difference).
Apologies if I didn't reply to any past PMs. Sometimes my PM inbox is on fire I get so many of them due to the moderation responsibilities here on the site.
Re: cooling, that T-stat won't help all that much. Focus on your radiator size... what are you planning to run? Look into the FC thermoswitch, which will turn the OEM fans on 'High' speed much sooner (IIRC 95 C vs 107 C, a huge difference).
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
I've never run that particular turbo on my personal car. It all comes down to boost and power goals as well as intended use.... Garrett turbos are a good choice IMO
Apologies if I didn't reply to any past PMs. Sometimes my PM inbox is on fire I get so many of them due to the moderation responsibilities here on the site.
Re: cooling, that T-stat won't help all that much. Focus on your radiator size... what are you planning to run? Look into the FC thermoswitch, which will turn the OEM fans on 'High' speed much sooner (IIRC 95 C vs 107 C, a huge difference).
Apologies if I didn't reply to any past PMs. Sometimes my PM inbox is on fire I get so many of them due to the moderation responsibilities here on the site.
Re: cooling, that T-stat won't help all that much. Focus on your radiator size... what are you planning to run? Look into the FC thermoswitch, which will turn the OEM fans on 'High' speed much sooner (IIRC 95 C vs 107 C, a huge difference).
I will be running a more Wide Greddy radiator for my setup. Its just that all these are not helping me for my custom V mount setup. Hks wide intercooler Greddy more wide radiator, also i would like to keep my under the car front plastic safety stock diffuser. All these make it difficult for the V mount setup.
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
Guys sorry for let you wait for so long. Its just not enough time left for my project.
Well i'm in the final stages now so i need opinions on ECU.
I sell my PFC and looking for something better. If there is any of course.
So what is your opinion on this? Buy another PFC, maybe Adaptronic maybe something better than those?
Thank you all
Well i'm in the final stages now so i need opinions on ECU.
I sell my PFC and looking for something better. If there is any of course.
So what is your opinion on this? Buy another PFC, maybe Adaptronic maybe something better than those?
Thank you all
Guys sorry for let you wait for so long. Its just not enough time left for my project.
Well i'm in the final stages now so i need opinions on ECU.
I sell my PFC and looking for something better. If there is any of course.
So what is your opinion on this? Buy another PFC, maybe Adaptronic maybe something better than those?
Thank you all
Well i'm in the final stages now so i need opinions on ECU.
I sell my PFC and looking for something better. If there is any of course.
So what is your opinion on this? Buy another PFC, maybe Adaptronic maybe something better than those?
Thank you all
Biggest factors on a ECU decisions are is the person tuning the car comfortable with the EMS and it's software and what type of local and/or online customer support you can get if needed. If the person tuning the car has problems with using "XYZ" EMS it wont matter how great a unit it is. Same goes for customer support. If it were me at this point I would look at what is commonly used in your market place as then you should have good local support and at times that can be all the difference for someone struggling on a EMS.
~S~
~S~
Μιχαλη, να αλλαξεις τις 2 μαμα τρομπες-δεν κανουν-δεν εχουν αρκετοι παροχη. Καλυτερα ειναι να βαλεις 2bosch η 2 Aeromotive. Τα υπολοιπα ενταξει ειναι, το καλυτερο ecu νομιζω οτι ειναι Haltech P1000, αλλα οτι μπορει να χειριστη ο δικος σου εκει.
Μιχαλη, να αλλαξει& sigmaf; τις 2 μαμα τρομπες-δεν κανουν-δεν εχουν αρκετο&iota ; παροχη. Καλυτερ α ειναι να βαλεις 2bosch η 2 Aeromotive. Τα υπολοιπ& alpha; ενταξει ειναι, το καλυτερ ο ecu νομιζω οτι ειναι Haltech P1000, αλλα οτι μπορει να χειριστ&eta ; ο δικος σου εκει.
Thread Starter
I OWN THE BEST CAR EVER
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CYPRUS
Now about the ECU i will probably choose to find someone that will be able to help me about a online tuning. Its just that in local place here tuners dont have much expirience with rotaries and they are doing a lot of mistakes on tuning or they choose to just go safe and that results not more than 80% of the potential of the car.
So i have a friend mechanic that he have internet access and he have a good dyno so he will lend it to me for 1 or 2 days if i can find some proffesional to tune my car.
Looks like you don't have the proper font.
Mike, one aeromotive pump isn't really good enough for the horsepower you're trying to squeeze out. You could buy a ready made dual fuel pump bracket and be on the safe side. As for online tuning, not that much better than what one of your locals can do-it'll never be at full potential. There are tuners that come to Cyprus from the states to tune rx's.
I allready choose to go with one aeromotive pump. If this wont be enough after the tuning then i will install a second one!
Now about the ECU i will probably choose to find someone that will be able to help me about a online tuning. Its just that in local place here tuners dont have much expirience with rotaries and they are doing a lot of mistakes on tuning or they choose to just go safe and that results not more than 80% of the potential of the car.
So i have a friend mechanic that he have internet access and he have a good dyno so he will lend it to me for 1 or 2 days if i can find some proffesional to tune my car.
Now about the ECU i will probably choose to find someone that will be able to help me about a online tuning. Its just that in local place here tuners dont have much expirience with rotaries and they are doing a lot of mistakes on tuning or they choose to just go safe and that results not more than 80% of the potential of the car.
So i have a friend mechanic that he have internet access and he have a good dyno so he will lend it to me for 1 or 2 days if i can find some proffesional to tune my car.