Booyah

So, after months of waiting on an engine rebuild I finally got my 94 FD back from the shop. Long story short, when I purchased the car the TP sensor was installed upside down, and the secondary injectors were not opening. So when those initial problems were fixed and the car was put on the dyno, the wear the engine had been sustaining from not getting enough fuel finally came to head, in the form of an apex seal shooting out of the exhaust. It thoroughly gouged the rotor, rotor housing, and busted up the blades on the turbo.

With a blown engine I figured, might as well go all out take the time to get a nice agressive streetport, a stage 2 engine rebuild, and any other miscellaneous items that looked like it needed to be replaced (ie: motor mounts and oil metering lines). So after all is said and done, with a rich/conservative tune the car puts down 353whp. It eats through gas like crazy but is an absolute dream to drive.

All work was done by Rotor Sports Racing of Kannapolis, NC. I was very pleased with their work and customer relations. www.rotorsportsracing.com

I will try to get some pictures of the actual car later today, but here are the photos of the damaged components.

Booyah

I forgot to mention the turbo, its a Garret T04R, with a full greddy installation kit.

pwwatkins

what boost? Shouldn't you be closer to 450hp?

Booyah

running about 13-14psi right now, conservative tune apparently.

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

you should have higher HP #'s specially with a streetport...I am at 370 whp at 14 lbs on a stock port with a TO4R....

Booyah

They said it was ran on a load type dyno that typically runs about 30% lower numbers than a regular roller dyno. I do feel that the numbers should be higher but I am going to wait until I get it retuned before I get suspicious.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

As long as its fast to you who gives a rats ***.

00mazdaracer

x2

Booyah

I cant use first or second gear in this thing, the power band is nuts, it just keeps building power as the rpms rise. My average lb/ft of torque is 290 something. The exhaust reeks of fuel though, and my EGT never goes above 900 degrees. Im thinking that this thing is running much richer than most normal conservative tunes.

edit - here are some crappy cell phone pictures of the car

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Where is your thermocoupler? 2 feet out the downpipe? 290ft lbs of torque is fun as hell in a 1st gen. You're right though, thats suppper cool if the thermocouple is working correctly. I've only seen that cool 6" out the downpipe when running wayyy too much water injection.

Gorilla RE

iTrader: (1)

Wow....This is the car that was for sale in Denver about 7 months ago! I almost got this FD but I guess you're the one that out "bid" me . Really nice FD man...good luck with it. And YES your HP is way down.
-J

Booyah

Indeed it was that car in denver. I guess I outbid you, then got stuck with a ready to blow engine. Maybe its for the best eh?

The average torque was 290, I dont remember the max at the moment.

Well see what it can do later, for now I want to figure out why my headlights dim when I hit the brakes.

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

My lights did the same thing. Also had intermittment eletrical surging. I checked all my grounds and added my own grounding kit. The problems went away. Search ground kits and you should find enough info. to make your own. Remember to ground the exhayst to the chasis as well. G

pwwatkins

Is your idle really low, or do you have an underdrive pulley?

Booyah

what is a low idle? My PFC shows around 1000 stable at warm temps, has a harder time staying steady at cold temperatures but that is to be expected Im assuming...

G's 3rd Gen, thanks for the advice, havent had any other electrical troubles just a very slight dim when I hit the brakes. I do have a rather undersized battery, not sure if that might have something to do with it.