ianewk

I've read this and that about accuracy and I hope that it's not correct. Otherwise I just spent a lot of time and money for nothing.

1st run
60' - 2.163
330' - 5.687
1/8 mile - 8.518
1000' - 10.873
1/4 mile ET - 12.894 @ 112.2
0-60 - 5.061

2nd run
60' - 2.065
330' - 5.536
1/8 mile - 8.401
1000' - 10.789
1/4 mile ET - 12.804 @ 111.58
0-60 - 4.969

Both runs felt pretty strong, I had almost no wheel spin and the launches felt great.

I ran @ 15psi, temp was 92 degrees outside and I don't know elevation but I'm in Oklahoma.

Is this right? I would think I'm faster than that. I hope I'm faster than that. See mod list. Any input?

Oh, and I'm not even going to talk about HP...it said I have 269 @6666rpm. ****. Stupid G-tech. I'm going to dyno this weekend, screw it!

0110-M-P

iTrader: (10)

I hated my Gtech. Don't trust them. I hear some have good results, but mine was nothing but trouble.

ianewk

Okay, I went back out and ran it again...this time @ 17psi.

I let the wheels spin more and used less clutch here's the result:

12.45 @ 114.4
60' - 2.106
330' - 5.435
1/8 - 8.131 @ 95.48
1000' - 10.456
0-60 - 4.510

12.031 @ 118.02
60' - 2.054
330' - 5.285
1/8 - 7.885 @ 98.14
1000' - 10.106
0-60 - 4.270

These seem a little more realistic...but still, old road vs prepped track...I hope the track times will be better.

HP was still a little on the low side -- 316.8.

T88NosRx7

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i'm not sure about the gtech stuff. A friend of mine used it in his civic and it was always giving different readings. Once he got a 11.16 quarter (there is no way in hell is car could do that).

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

If he used the G-tech while going uphill it could read that. It only accounts for level sufaces. The more the car leans backwards during acceleration the less accurate it gets. The original g-tech had to be calibrated to level before each run and this is a major flaw. The new g-tech pro does not and consequently can better compensate for this occurence.

Makenzie71

G-Techs make great converation and family entertainment pieces...

MrBob 86

Getting an accurate weight and having a level surface is the key. My buddy has one and we used it on his car and then put the car on the dyno. They we really damn close.

enuttage

My Gtech has made me very unhappy. Not because of bad readings. The numbers we pulled from a few runs in my wife's MINI weren't too far off.

Because it won't recognize my cars RPM signal, for whatever reason. Anyone else have problems with this?

It wouldn't read my bro-in-law's RX-8 either.

-E

ianewk

I was very level...and had 3000 lbs for my weight 2800lbs + me.

Either way...I'm pretty damn sure that my car is more than 316HP. See mods.

MrBob 86

With a T-66 I would hope you were making more than 316hp. Have you accually weighted your car?

ianewk

Where can I do that? A highway weigh station?

T88NosRx7

iTrader: (1)

someone did it at a recycling plant, but don't know if I believe them.

MrBob 86

We weighed my friends car at a recycling center. Try finding a truck stop with scales. Truck scales are usually accurate to within 5 pounds.

weaklink

Some truckstops have scales. 316 to the wheels maybe? It seems with the gtech the MORE wheelspin you have, the LESS it would read for HP since it's an accelerometer. Anyway, there was a thread a while back that said that the gtech's HP #s were not accurate for turbo cars. said it was in the instructions.

ianewk

I really don't think so.

Race-ported, T-66 running 17psi, Haltech E6K, with all the supporting mods?

No, I'm sure it's more than that. I'll find out what I'm putting down for sure next Saturday for a dyno day in OKC.

I really didn't g-tech the car for a HP rating, more for times, which are supposed to be relatively accurate.

MrBob 86

I would think that you would be deep into the 11's with trap speeds in the upper 120's with a T-66. Your results seem to have a lot of varitation to them.

ianewk

I agree. The first times, I rode the clutch pretty hard trying to eliminate wheels spin, which of course decreased my power to the ground.

The next two times, I just let them spin, but feathered the throttle to stay out of the red, this seemed to take the numbers down considerably. Not to mention, I wasn't paying much attention to how level the G-tech was on the first two runs, which may have altered the results.

Either way, the track will tell the true tale.

Carl Byck

Properly set up, and executed they are very accurate from the tests I've read, Esp. the new Pro model, but like any testing, one wrong variable can throw the whole thing off.
In looking at your mods, you look a little under pumped, the supra pump is a good one, but I would think that your set up properly tuned is good for ~500rwhp(absolute max for that pump with 11.5 afr on a piston engine)(assuming a 1.00AR Q trim).
- what size fuel lines, and primary injectors?
- ignition? The T66 will perform at 20-30 psi(serious ignition required)
- that clutch will never hold the power that turbo can make(not even close).
I am not an expert tuner, but I have the E6K, and the difference between a conservative tune, and an aggressive one at 20-25psi on your set-up assuming adequate fuel, and ignition could be 100rwhp.
Last that is too low of a boost level to make power w/a T66, turn it up to 25 psi on C16, and you'll see 450-500rwhp.
What I see is alot of guys w/street cars, and big turbos trying to run low boost/pump gas, and make power, not going to happen. Big turbo-high boost - race fuel= big power. If you want ~400hp, your turbo is probably too big, if you want to run pump gas, your turbo is definitely too big.
There are exceptions to these generalizations, but they are few(very small hot side is one). The Supra guys run T66s at ~25-35 psi, they make ~450@20psi, and 700 @30 psi on race gas. hope this sheds some light, Carl

ianewk

Thanks for the input Carl.

The car is tuned very conservatively right now. Trust me, I'm not expecting 10-second passes and 600HP on 93 octane @ 17 psi.

I'm tuned very rich right now, and won't run the car very hard without some additional items like J&S knock retard, water/methonol injection, race gas, etc.

I had a Crane HI-6, but we were having some RF signal corruptaion, so we took it out and believe it or not, I'm running stock ignition right now...I know, I know.

I think I'll be going with the Jacobs Pro Pak...any suggestions?

I also plan on running a mild water/methonol injection + J&S knock retard system before I raise the boost any more...I've already rolled the dice a little more than I wanted.

I'm staying out of the throttle for the time being. I just wanted to get a basic idea of what I'm running, and the G-tech was the easiest way to accomplish that.

The car is going back to Marvelspeed shortly for more extensive tuning and a new manifold (I'm not happy with mine). At that time (wife permission pending) I'll add the J&S.

As for the fuel, I haven't got a reading on my injector duty cycles, I'll datalog it at Marvelspeed and see how hard the fuel system is working, but it seems fine. What pump do you suggest to take me over 500WHP? Can I just run dual Supra pumps?

Carl Byck

Sounds like your headed the right direction, and your numbers are consistent w/that. I'd run dual Walbros long term, as the Supra pumps won't last at 12 Vt continous. Dual Supra pumps work also. I run 3-msd 6A boxes, with stock TII coils, I know that the previous owner ran ~25 psi ~530hp w/it, and I have no break-up up to 28 psi. You'll get there. Take your time, and keep straight 100 octane in the tank until your done working out the bugs, sounds expensive, but I've never lost an engine to a tuning issue yet(knock on wood ).
check 87GTRs threads, I think they are maxing out the 720/1600 combo @500rwhp, I think 1000 primaries may be needed at that level for a safety margin. Carl

infinitebass

Just a note, it seems that GTech's start to lose accuracy once you get faster than a 13.5 in the 1/4 mi. Anything slower than that and its pretty accurate.

Blake

OzFeTt

just out of interest, i did a run with my gtech a while ago and did 13.0 @ 116mph (crappy road, loads of wheelspin) and my car makes exactly 316rwhp (dyno dynamics) this is with a T04R @ 14psi.

Carl is dead right, these bigger turbos really don't work properly on a 13B with pump gas. Water injection/ potent fuel and 20psi+ is the way to go really, really fast

Rob.

apneablue

Ian, you going to be in OKC at PowerHouse for the unofficial dyno day on the 1st of Nov?...Would be cool to see your car...I am driving up from Tulsa.

ianewk

I was planning on it until yesterday. I have been fricking dying to dyno my car, but now it's making some strange noise, almost like an exhaust rattle when I get on it. So needless to say, I won;t be pushing the car.

I'm a little upsaet about it beacuse I've been wanting to hang out wiath all of you guys and finally meet evrybody, but instead I'll be taking the car back to Marvelspeed for wome fine tuning and a new manifold.

apneablue

Well, you're doing the smart thing. Baby it and it will treat you right. We'll all hook up again in during the fall i'm sure. good luck!