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Intake air box

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Old 12-30-09, 03:06 AM
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Intake air box

Some of the Colorado Springs Mazda/Rotary folks already know about this, and some thought it was kinda ridiculous. Well, it is, but I decided to do it none-the-less. It's fairly cheap too. I decided to do this for two reasons...

1. I love homemade stuff. I would much rather make something for the car than buy it off the shelf. I also love products that others on the forums make, things like air pump deletion idler pullies (which I also have), etc.

2. I figured instead of a coffee can exhaust, I could have a coffee can intake haha.

So I started with a 39oz Hills Brothers Original Blend coffee can. I also got a 6" metal end cap, a 2" plastic T fitting, an adapter (to serve as the backing to attach it to the end cap), a flush valve shank washer (to use between the adapter and end cap) but I ended up not using that.

This is the first set of things I bought at ACE Hardware (except for the coffee of course)...


...but I had to go to Lowe's and get a different size T fitting so I could attach the ducting. The first one I got was 1.5", the second one is 2".


I started by cutting the bottom of the coffee can, to make the hole for the filter to slide through...


I left the little tabs so that I could tighten the clamp around them to make sure the can stayed upright and didn't sag...


And I had to cut the top of the can to get the filter inside, and to be able to slide the end cap in when it came time...


Then I did a test fit on the turbo, not too bad.



Because the vacuum line coming off my turbo was kinked due to the coffee can, I got an elbow fitting while I was at Lowe's.

Old 12-30-09, 03:06 AM
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Then I started on the end cap assembly. First I cut a hole to slide the adapter through and attach the T fitting. I was going to put it right in the middle of the end cap, but I figured if I offset it, it would clear the filter more and let air flow better.



Due to the VMIC, it is a tight fit for the can with the end cap and T fitting installed, so I had to cut the can down a bit.



I think it the can will need to be cut down a bit more, and I also cut a little off the back of the adapter so it won't hit the filter. I wish I could cut the T fitting down some, and I might try that, but I'm afraid it will mess up the threads and make it unusable. Tomorrow I will clean it all up and do a proper test fit onto the turbo. When I'm happy with it all, I'm going to cover it with heat shielding to keep it as cold as possible inside.

Info for the parts I'm using are...

Parts bought at Lowe's

2" plastic T-fitting
bar code 39923 20942
C5814
$6.25

2" plastic adapter
bar code 39923 19472
C5804
$1.33

(if you need it)
elbow fitting
bar code 48643 07203
Watts A-712
1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP
$2.64

Parts bought at ACE Hardware

6" GV End Cap
bar code 63467 14404
GV0735
$7.99

The heat shielding is a DEI 12" x 24" piece I bought from Advance Auto Parts for about $20, but I might try to use something that doesn't have an adhesive backing so I can remove it easily if need be.

Oh, and the filter I have is a K&N RU-2510.
Old 12-31-09, 08:53 PM
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After some feedback on another forum got me thinking about restriction, I decided to give each duct it's own opening. I used two adapters (like I was using to attach the T fitting) and trimmed them down a bit to make more room for the filter. The pic is of a regular one and one that I trimmed down.



I also realized today that the T fitting openings weren't actually 2", they were closer to 3". The threads on the adapter are close to 2.5" so I left them installed threads out and I ordered 12 feet of 2.5" diameter ducting. I believe tightening the ducting down on the threads will help it stay on as well.

I put on the heat shielding too, but it was a pain in the *** since like a dumbass I measured and cut it first instead of putting it on THEN trimming off the extra haha. I also put some on the cover since I had enough leftover. I might put on a second layer of shielding since the first layer is kinda jacked and also because you can still tell it's a coffee can haha.




I also discovered that I have enough space on the sides of the VMIC/radiator to put the ducting ends through there on both sides, so I may not do a headlight swap now. The only thing I'm curious about is if using that area as an intake for the turbo will take too much air/pressure away from the VMIC/radiator.
Old 01-01-10, 12:54 AM
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post pics once the ducting is in. this is a cool little project. are you logging air temps now? i hope so because im curious to see if there is a differance with your new setup.
Old 01-01-10, 01:44 AM
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I think its cool, I know other guys will prolly bash you n tell you that you own an rx7 but I think its creative. Good job
Old 01-01-10, 05:09 AM
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Thanks guys!

I haven't been logging air temps per se, just glancing to see what it is at any given moment. I plan on doing a comparison though. I got excited and put the assembly on already before I remembered that I wanted to leave it off and get temps without it haha. So once I get the ducts, I plan on taking the assembly back off and getting temps...noting what the ambient temp is, how long I've driven it and under what conditions, etc. Then I'll put the assembly back on and do the same thing over again. I'll post up pics and results at that time. I should get the ducting in just over a week I imagine. I ordered it tonight and they won't ship it until after the holiday.

I did get some flak on RCC, but even then it was mostly just questions about why I did it, and that was pretty much commenting on how it was pretty restrictive. They had a point though and because of that I made some adjustments to improve it. So feedback is definitely welcome haha. But, the most important feedback I'm looking for is what difference it makes.
Old 01-01-10, 08:45 AM
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That actaully looks pretty good. You should have kept the label on the coffee can though. That would have been pretty damn cool. lol
Old 01-01-10, 10:56 AM
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congrats on your project. i alway enjoy seeing what gets dreamed up by forum members.

i thought i would add the following as an FYI... this email comes as a response to my question as to flow from K&N:

"Hello Howard,
Thank you for your interest in K&N products. I can determine the CFM of the engine, I will need to know the cubic inch of the engine, maximum RPM, and lbs. of boost (if any). The following part number will flow X amount of CFM at 1.5” of H2O:

RD-1450 = 791.68
RD-1460 = 1,187.52

When replying, please include this email. If you have any further questions, please call our Customer Support Team at 1(800)858-3333. Thank you for writing and have a great day.


Thomas Walden
Technical Support &
Sports Marketing
800-858-3333
ThomasW@KNFilters.com"

so what does this mean for we rotary guys?

RD-1450 = 791.68

this is a straight filter that fits 4 inch compressor intakes, is 7 inches in diameter and 6 inches long.

it flows 792 CFM at 1.5 inches of water resistance.

792/1.92 is 412 rw rotary hp! any more hp and you are running into resistance. as i see engine compartment pictures on the forum i see alot of these filters on GT35s and TO4z motors. a gt35r makes 897 CFM and a TO4z (or any 67 mm turbo) makes 1056!!!


RD-1460 = 1,187.52

here's your filter! 1187/1.92= 618 rw rotary hp w little resistance. the filter is 7 inches in diameter and 9 inches long.

those running a GT35r or larger should start rethinking how they are going to fit this filter.

howard coleman

Last edited by Howard Coleman; 01-01-10 at 11:00 AM.
Old 01-01-10, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Jdrift
That actaully looks pretty good. You should have kept the label on the coffee can though. That would have been pretty damn cool. lol
Thanks! You're actually the ONLY person that has suggested keeping the label though LOL.

Originally Posted by howard coleman
congrats on your project. i alway enjoy seeing what gets dreamed up by forum members.

i thought i would add the following as an FYI... this email comes as a response to my question as to flow from K&N:

"Hello Howard,
Thank you for your interest in K&N products. I can determine the CFM of the engine, I will need to know the cubic inch of the engine, maximum RPM, and lbs. of boost (if any). The following part number will flow X amount of CFM at 1.5” of H2O:

RD-1450 = 791.68
RD-1460 = 1,187.52

When replying, please include this email. If you have any further questions, please call our Customer Support Team at 1(800)858-3333. Thank you for writing and have a great day.


Thomas Walden
Technical Support &
Sports Marketing
800-858-3333
ThomasW@KNFilters.com"

so what does this mean for we rotary guys?

RD-1450 = 791.68

this is a straight filter that fits 4 inch compressor intakes, is 7 inches in diameter and 6 inches long.

it flows 792 CFM at 1.5 inches of water resistance.

792/1.92 is 412 rw rotary hp! any more hp and you are running into resistance. as i see engine compartment pictures on the forum i see alot of these filters on GT35s and TO4z motors. a gt35r makes 897 CFM and a TO4z (or any 67 mm turbo) makes 1056!!!


RD-1460 = 1,187.52

here's your filter! 1187/1.92= 618 rw rotary hp w little resistance. the filter is 7 inches in diameter and 9 inches long.

those running a GT35r or larger should start rethinking how they are going to fit this filter.

howard coleman
Damn, Howard comes through again! Thanks for the info! However, from your description, I think I am severely hindering my flow. I may have to just run a screen over the turbo itself and install some kind of filter at the end of the ducting. Or, I'll either need a smaller turbo or a much bigger coffee can haha.

Oh, I have a 500R-SP just for the record. Not sure if that makes any difference since I know it's basically a GT35R.

Also, what filter are you using now Howard? Actually I've been meaning to ask you, what turbo/s have you gone with now since you sold your twin setup to my buddy? They're actually sitting in my spare room right now haha. My roommate and I contemplated putting them on one of our FDs, you know, just to test them for our friend before he gets back from the desert LOL.
Old 01-01-10, 12:44 PM
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"I have a 500R-SP just for the record. Not sure if that makes any difference since I know it's basically a GT35R."

not by a long shot.

the GT35r makes 897 CFM

the GT500R-SP makes 1056 CFM

i am fabbing a manifold for my 2010 turbo setup which is a GT4094r, 1157 CFM. the manifold is designed like no other i have seen and situates the turbo so i can run the 9 inch filter with little in the way of bends between the filter and the turbo. the filter will be in a purpose built M2 like airbox so i am not drawing 160 degree engine compartment air. i have sent Simon a couple of emails to find out how he's doing and havent heard so i was concerned. have you heard from him?

hc

Last edited by Howard Coleman; 01-01-10 at 12:50 PM.
Old 01-01-10, 01:29 PM
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Hhahah well, I would do it just to do it. I'm not very good at making things. So more power to ya man. Good luck with the project,hope it turns out well.

Yanno something. For those people that say go out and buy the parts rather then make them. Every company ( I'll use Summit Racing as an example) hand makes parts and tests them. That is how parts are invented. So what you're doing is no different from them. Like I said, more power to ya.
Old 01-01-10, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by howard coleman
"I have a 500R-SP just for the record. Not sure if that makes any difference since I know it's basically a GT35R."

not by a long shot.

the GT35r makes 897 CFM

the GT500R-SP makes 1056 CFM

i am fabbing a manifold for my 2010 turbo setup which is a GT4094r, 1157 CFM. the manifold is designed like no other i have seen and situates the turbo so i can run the 9 inch filter with little in the way of bends between the filter and the turbo. the filter will be in a purpose built M2 like airbox so i am not drawing 160 degree engine compartment air. i have sent Simon a couple of emails to find out how he's doing and havent heard so i was concerned. have you heard from him?

hc
Well dammit, I guess I'll have to come up with something then. This sucks.

Yeah Simon called us last week, he's doing alright other than burning through all his deployment money buying car parts haha, but I do the same thing when I'm over there so I can't fault him for that haha.

Can't wait to see your setup Howard!

Originally Posted by Jdrift
Hhahah well, I would do it just to do it. I'm not very good at making things. So more power to ya man. Good luck with the project,hope it turns out well.

Yanno something. For those people that say go out and buy the parts rather then make them. Every company ( I'll use Summit Racing as an example) hand makes parts and tests them. That is how parts are invented. So what you're doing is no different from them. Like I said, more power to ya.
Well, there is a SLIGHT difference...I'm sure their testing is alot more in-depth than mine HAHA. Thanks for your support though! Had I thought about the filter size and flow before now it would have helped tremendously though haha.
Old 01-20-10, 12:32 AM
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Thanks! But it's not quite as awesome as I first thought haha. The filter is too small in the first place. I'm going to get a filter big enough so it won't be restrictive, then I'll see if I can rig up some kind of cold air system for that filter. If I do, I'll just put it in this thread.
Old 01-20-10, 06:20 AM
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I was about to say damn that filter is way too small (such a common thing on turbo cars) but ive been beaten to it.

The trouble is, its pretty hard to fit an unrestrictive cold air feed with a proper sized filter like mine...
Old 01-20-10, 07:02 PM
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Yeah I never even thought about it before this, but I guess it's a good thing I did this project anyway because I might have never realized it haha.

I can't fit a whole lot with my VMIC, and I'm NOT giving that up. However, I've been speaking with K&N too, and I think I'm getting squared away and I'm already dreaming up a new cold air box, but it will be much better than this one.

That is a good size filter you got there haha. What turbo is that? And which filter?
Old 01-28-10, 01:02 AM
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nice mcgiver intake
Old 01-28-10, 09:20 PM
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^McGuyver's makeshift creations actually worked though HAHA. I think this would have worked, I don't see how it couldn't, it just wouldn't have worked efficiently.
Old 01-29-10, 05:49 AM
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^^ maybe not for your turbo but it may be helpful for those of us who run stock turbo's. I'll have to give it a shot and see Been looking for a reason to swap in an FMIC anyway

Definitely deserves props for creativity but I gotta say that first pic with coffee can on your turbo looked ghetto as %&^ to me! Not bashing tho I laughed my butt off when I saw it!
Old 01-29-10, 04:19 PM
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^That's mostly why I did it. I wanted to make it out of little more than a normal person's garbage HAHA. I just wanted to see what I could do with as little as possible. Glad you got a kick out of it. I laughed for about 5 minutes too when I did that first test fit, so no offense taken haha.

If you end up doing this project for your stock turbo, post the pics here if you want, or a link to your thread. I'd like to see how it turns out.
Old 02-02-10, 01:27 AM
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I may have to try it once I get my engine back in (thursday woo hooo!) I need to pick up some kind of temp gauge but I do have a differential pressure meter. Where did you get the coffee can? All I can find around here are plastic ones and I dont think they will stand the heat.
Old 02-02-10, 09:54 PM
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^I got the coffee/can at Wal-Mart.

I ordered the K&N RD-1410 filter.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RD-1410

A couple problems...the flange is too big for the filter (it's about 4 1/8" instead of 4", which doesn't seem like much but it seems to be quite a bit on the turbo haha), and even dropping the back side of the radiator, the hose still hits the filter and forces it up. I'm planning on making an actual airbox for whatever filter I get, but this one will not work, period. Even if I had it come off the turbo at a 45 or 90 degree angle, pointing upwards, it still wouldn't fit between the IC piping and coolant filler neck. So, I'm on the prowl again for a good filter. Something big enough to allow enough airflow but small enough to actually fit the tight clearances. I'm thinking I might have to sacrifice some airflow for the clearance though haha.
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