Innovate LC-1 problems
#1
Fixed the wheelhop
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Innovate LC-1 problems
Hey, I installed an Innovate LC-1 wideband a while back. It was working fine for about 3 hours after I installed and calibrated it. Then the AFRs went to 22.4 and stayed there. Full lean reading; I figured the sensor overheated, being mounted about 3 inches from the turbo. There are no trouble codes, which is weird. Also, it would come on and off randomly, working intermittently. But mostly frozen at 22.4
So I relocated the bung about 17 inches from the turbo, and bought a new sensor. I performed the steps just as the manual describes for a new sensor: sensor unplugged, turn key on for 10 seconds, then off for 10 seconds, sensor connected, on for 2 minutes, it calibrates it, and the LED is on steady, not blinking, still not flashing any codes.
Well the damn thing is still reading 22.4, and now will not even work intermittently. Ive tried recalibrating it a few times and nothing. I felt the tip of the sensor after it was calibrated and the tip is hot, so the sensor heater is working. Ive even taken the sensor out after a drive and the tip is nice and clean.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Any other ways to reset or recalibrate the thing? Luckily I tuned the AFRs for idle, high vac areas, cruise and some low boost while it worked initially. But I cant tune for WOT now! WTF?
So I relocated the bung about 17 inches from the turbo, and bought a new sensor. I performed the steps just as the manual describes for a new sensor: sensor unplugged, turn key on for 10 seconds, then off for 10 seconds, sensor connected, on for 2 minutes, it calibrates it, and the LED is on steady, not blinking, still not flashing any codes.
Well the damn thing is still reading 22.4, and now will not even work intermittently. Ive tried recalibrating it a few times and nothing. I felt the tip of the sensor after it was calibrated and the tip is hot, so the sensor heater is working. Ive even taken the sensor out after a drive and the tip is nice and clean.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Any other ways to reset or recalibrate the thing? Luckily I tuned the AFRs for idle, high vac areas, cruise and some low boost while it worked initially. But I cant tune for WOT now! WTF?
#2
Hey, I installed an Innovate LC-1 wideband a while back. It was working fine for about 3 hours after I installed and calibrated it. Then the AFRs went to 22.4 and stayed there. Full lean reading; I figured the sensor overheated, being mounted about 3 inches from the turbo. There are no trouble codes, which is weird. Also, it would come on and off randomly, working intermittently. But mostly frozen at 22.4
So I relocated the bung about 17 inches from the turbo, and bought a new sensor. I performed the steps just as the manual describes for a new sensor: sensor unplugged, turn key on for 10 seconds, then off for 10 seconds, sensor connected, on for 2 minutes, it calibrates it, and the LED is on steady, not blinking, still not flashing any codes.
Well the damn thing is still reading 22.4, and now will not even work intermittently. Ive tried recalibrating it a few times and nothing. I felt the tip of the sensor after it was calibrated and the tip is hot, so the sensor heater is working. Ive even taken the sensor out after a drive and the tip is nice and clean.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Any other ways to reset or recalibrate the thing? Luckily I tuned the AFRs for idle, high vac areas, cruise and some low boost while it worked initially. But I cant tune for WOT now! WTF?
So I relocated the bung about 17 inches from the turbo, and bought a new sensor. I performed the steps just as the manual describes for a new sensor: sensor unplugged, turn key on for 10 seconds, then off for 10 seconds, sensor connected, on for 2 minutes, it calibrates it, and the LED is on steady, not blinking, still not flashing any codes.
Well the damn thing is still reading 22.4, and now will not even work intermittently. Ive tried recalibrating it a few times and nothing. I felt the tip of the sensor after it was calibrated and the tip is hot, so the sensor heater is working. Ive even taken the sensor out after a drive and the tip is nice and clean.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Any other ways to reset or recalibrate the thing? Luckily I tuned the AFRs for idle, high vac areas, cruise and some low boost while it worked initially. But I cant tune for WOT now! WTF?
Check the little termination plug.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ead.php?t=2127
#3
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i had one of these and it did the same crap. then i sent it back to inovate 3 times!! then it fixed the above problem finally. after that it would never come out of warming up mode, so i said **** it, sold it, and bought a plx. this is what i reccomend.
#4
Chasing numbers
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Check the grounds and make sure you did not screw up-reset the setings in the logworks or whatever they call it. I remember that if you unplug one of the wires while the power is on it will go back to the factory settings. I think its the type of fuel. Mine kept craping out on the leaded gas so I went FJO-NTK!
Chrispeed, you get my PM?
Chrispeed, you get my PM?
#5
Fixed the wheelhop
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First of all thanks crispeed!! I picked up a few tips from the Innovate forum.
And saying that, I wish Id found that forum before I bought this POS! So many people are having so many problems, its a joke!
I didnt have that termination plug in at all, I inserted it into the IN lead, should I insert the serial cable into the OUT even if its not hooked up to a laptop? Also I had the switched 12V source connected to my radio 12V, after reading about all the interference problems I connected it straight to the switched 12V on my ignition.
Well now its frozen on 14.8 instead of 22.4
I have all the grounds going to a single lug and grounded on the rotor housing, would it be better grounded to the intermediate housing? (iron v/s aluminum)
And saying that, I wish Id found that forum before I bought this POS! So many people are having so many problems, its a joke!
I didnt have that termination plug in at all, I inserted it into the IN lead, should I insert the serial cable into the OUT even if its not hooked up to a laptop? Also I had the switched 12V source connected to my radio 12V, after reading about all the interference problems I connected it straight to the switched 12V on my ignition.
Well now its frozen on 14.8 instead of 22.4
I have all the grounds going to a single lug and grounded on the rotor housing, would it be better grounded to the intermediate housing? (iron v/s aluminum)
#7
Senior Member
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First of all thanks crispeed!! I picked up a few tips from the Innovate forum.
And saying that, I wish Id found that forum before I bought this POS! So many people are having so many problems, its a joke!
I didnt have that termination plug in at all, I inserted it into the IN lead, should I insert the serial cable into the OUT even if its not hooked up to a laptop? Also I had the switched 12V source connected to my radio 12V, after reading about all the interference problems I connected it straight to the switched 12V on my ignition.
Well now its frozen on 14.8 instead of 22.4
I have all the grounds going to a single lug and grounded on the rotor housing, would it be better grounded to the intermediate housing? (iron v/s aluminum)
And saying that, I wish Id found that forum before I bought this POS! So many people are having so many problems, its a joke!
I didnt have that termination plug in at all, I inserted it into the IN lead, should I insert the serial cable into the OUT even if its not hooked up to a laptop? Also I had the switched 12V source connected to my radio 12V, after reading about all the interference problems I connected it straight to the switched 12V on my ignition.
Well now its frozen on 14.8 instead of 22.4
I have all the grounds going to a single lug and grounded on the rotor housing, would it be better grounded to the intermediate housing? (iron v/s aluminum)
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#8
I won't let go
Sounds like a short to me that's giving it some constant voltage. I have the same controller. It should give you some error but I can see if one of the leads off the O2 sensor (black wire maybe?) are shorting that it won't give an error but rather some value based on the voltage it's seeing.
Have you replaced the sensor yet?
And for the record, I haven't had any issues with it yet.
Have you replaced the sensor yet?
And for the record, I haven't had any issues with it yet.
#9
Fixed the wheelhop
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Looks like PLX then?
Ok **** it, its been fluctuating between 14.8 and 22.4, Ive tried recalibrating it, the grounds are good, no trouble codes, and its still not working.
I really like the looks of the PLX setup. But no calibration required? Then why wouldnt Innovate do that? Seems too easy...but hey anyone else have good results with the PLX wideband?
And which PLX setup would I buy? Their entire sensor/gauge/wideband unit for $247.50 (ebay item # 150251931189) or could I just buy ebay item # 160244404627 which is just the sensor module and O2 sensor for $177.50 and use my nice blue LED Innovate gauge? Are they compatible?
I really like the looks of the PLX setup. But no calibration required? Then why wouldnt Innovate do that? Seems too easy...but hey anyone else have good results with the PLX wideband?
And which PLX setup would I buy? Their entire sensor/gauge/wideband unit for $247.50 (ebay item # 150251931189) or could I just buy ebay item # 160244404627 which is just the sensor module and O2 sensor for $177.50 and use my nice blue LED Innovate gauge? Are they compatible?
#10
rotorhead
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I really like the LC-1 in the same way that I like my Rx-7 : it's great after you go through all the bullshit of getting it set up to run right. It's very sensitive to grounding and placement of the sensor.
Is this a brand new, 7 wire LC-1 ? Or did you buy a used 6 wire unit? The older 6 wire ones had lots of problems.
Is this a brand new, 7 wire LC-1 ? Or did you buy a used 6 wire unit? The older 6 wire ones had lots of problems.
#11
Fixed the wheelhop
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I just looked and I have the older 6-wire unit. ************!!
Hey arghx, where are your grounds terminated at? And my O2 sensor is 17 inches from the v-band, is that ok?
I agree with your statement though, it has been a very rewarding experience thus far.
Hey arghx, where are your grounds terminated at? And my O2 sensor is 17 inches from the v-band, is that ok?
I agree with your statement though, it has been a very rewarding experience thus far.
#13
Chasing numbers
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FWI if any of you plan on running leaded race gas for more than a few dyno pulls do your self a favor and get a setup that runs the NTK sensor. Cost much more but it does read faster and last very long with the good gas.. I went thru 4 bosch sensors in about 3 -4 months before I swaped to a fjo set up.
#14
Senior Member
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mine was working fine for like 2-3months.. then it just started acting up. It would be reading fine...then it just goes stuck at 7.4 on and off..untill finally it just went stuck there all the time. Then now it counts up to 15.0 and stays stuck there. Dunno what to do about it..its really pissing me off
#15
I won't let go
My reply to your PM made me think of this...
I did recently have an issue with the thing, but I'm attributing it to some nasty low voltage conditions that I kept giving it. After that was fixed, I ran into a similar issue where it was constantly reading 4.x which as we know is impossible to run. I discovered that it somehow ended up on a methanol setting. No idea how, but once I told it to hit gas again, all was well. You may want to get into it and see how it's setup again.
I did recently have an issue with the thing, but I'm attributing it to some nasty low voltage conditions that I kept giving it. After that was fixed, I ran into a similar issue where it was constantly reading 4.x which as we know is impossible to run. I discovered that it somehow ended up on a methanol setting. No idea how, but once I told it to hit gas again, all was well. You may want to get into it and see how it's setup again.
#16
rotorhead
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Here is a pic I made of my setup for this thread https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/my-power-fc-lc-1-xd-16-datalogit-wiring-diagram-707298/
:
I just put the grounds to a bolt on the interior chassis, but the blue heater ground is separated from the other ones. The 7 wire unit has an extra ground wire compared to the older 6 wire unit.
Call Innovate and send back your unit. My friend had a six wire he bought used off ebay with a ton of problems (despite a gazillion recalibrations and rewiring jobs) and they gave him a brand new one (that was after a couple tech calls though) even though he bought it used! I have had zero problems with my 7 wire unit, and neither has my friend had any problems since it was replaced.
Btw, the LM-1 (and new LM-2 which is coming out) can run the NTK sensor, but the LC-1 cannot.
:
I just put the grounds to a bolt on the interior chassis, but the blue heater ground is separated from the other ones. The 7 wire unit has an extra ground wire compared to the older 6 wire unit.
Call Innovate and send back your unit. My friend had a six wire he bought used off ebay with a ton of problems (despite a gazillion recalibrations and rewiring jobs) and they gave him a brand new one (that was after a couple tech calls though) even though he bought it used! I have had zero problems with my 7 wire unit, and neither has my friend had any problems since it was replaced.
Btw, the LM-1 (and new LM-2 which is coming out) can run the NTK sensor, but the LC-1 cannot.
Last edited by arghx; 05-31-08 at 08:18 AM.
#17
Fixed the wheelhop
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Yeah I think Im gonna return it. Ive tried many different fixes and got nothing. And I bought mine brand new from a speed shop! Probably sitting in the display case for years I guess...so yeah with the receipt and box and everything they should exchange it huh? Sweet!
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