Very true! This much torque at 3k from a turbo this size still damn near makes the twins obsolete. No need to down shift at high way cruise speeds to pass in 5th gear.

 

Have any graphs showing 17psi closer to 3k. All graphs I have seen show 15-20psi between 37-4000 Rpms. I'm considering selling my 9180 and dropping down to a 8374.

 

No sorry, I tuned this car in 35 minutes on the dyno as I had multiple other cars from out of town being dropped off etc. I only kept the final graphs.

We are adding the 2nd pump and a set of ID2000 primaries( since ID1700s aren't out yet). I will redo at 30psi and do a pull with controller on full blast down low.

 

Have any graphs showing 17psi closer to 3k. All graphs I have seen show 15-20psi between 37-4000 Rpms. I'm considering selling my 9180 and dropping down to a 8374.

I wouldn't make any decisions soley based on dyno sheets. I would see how the car boosts on the road/track.

For instance, I tuned in my 7670 on a Dyno Dynamics which is an awesome tuning tool for its steady state tuning abilities. Unfortunately, its not such a great tool *out of the box* for showing you your power curve on a full pull/sweep.

The Dyno Dynamics does not load the car as it is loaded driving or as it is loaded on an inertia dyno and this affects turbo cars greatly. You can access the Dyno Dynamics ramp rates and set it to allow the car to accelerate through each rpm band at the correct rate, but you would have to have logs/footage of how fast your TUNED car accelerates in 4th on the road/track.

I had to monkey with DD accel ramps to get the dyno to spool the turbo as it does on the street and then you get too much load at high rpm unless you monkey with accel through each RPM band.

Example from watching my videos-

2,000-8,000rpm in 4th driving was 14 seconds (aero drag)
2,000-8,000rpm in 4th on Dyno Jet was a hair over 13 seconds
2,000-8,000rpm in 4th on the Dyno Dynamics with load set to spool my turbo right was 16 seconds. You can really hear it languishing on the top end!

For our cars (about the right weight) Dyno Jet is better/easier for showing us our power curve, Dyno Dynamics is better/easier for tuning.

The diesels have the opposite problem- the Dyno Jet roller doesn't have nearly enough inertia to simulate the load of accelerating the trucks weight.

Anyways, blah blah blah- but do choose your turbo based on driving performance not dyno charts.

 

Anyone have any info on a 9180 1.05 EWG, havent seen any dyno/boost graphs for a rotary yet

 

Great stuff Turblown! Nice to know there is such a capable rotary shop so close to me

 

Clutch spun at a week of 20 psi.

 

So I assume that some kind of twin-clutch set up is a necessity with the 9180 turbo kit?

 

Hey Chohakai,
Given no one else has replied, I thought I should in the spirit of keeping 7club active! To keep things relatively simple, first remember that the amount of power a clutch holds is dependent on torque, and as such, a twin plate will hold more power than a single plate clutch. Second, bigger turbos generate more power at the expense of prolonged spool time, and as such, generally bigger turbos will be used relative to smaller turbos when ultimate power is sought (e.g. for drag). Putting this information together, individuals will run bigger turbos like the EFR 9180 rather than smaller ones like the 7670 for more power. Simply put, horsepower is dependent on torque, so when running high HP, a higher rated clutch is required. There is a fine balance between turbo size and your application based on engine, displacement, air/fuel, etc. if you asked this given an interest in slapping on an EFR 9180, you should be running high boost or at the least, aiming to sometime down the road. Hope this helps and doesn't come off as me being a self-conceited jerk haha.
Cheers
=]

 

chohakai

So I assume that some kind of twin-clutch set up is a necessity with the 9180 turbo kit?

Only if you want to turn up the boost and exceed the torque rating of a single clutch set up.

If you are happy with 450ft/lbs or whatever the single clutch you choose can hold then great, just run low boost.

 

We added a 2nd walbro 460lph, 2 more ID2000s( 4 X ID2000s total), moved from 2.5 inch to a 3" catback, added our FC electric water pump kit, an 8AN return line, and a turbosmart 14psi IWG actuator upgraded and we are now at 30 psi.

This is a 4th gear pull. Cruising at 3500rpms( where the blue circle is) I stab the throttle and it makes 30 psi by 3970RPMS.

Unfortunately the FD alternator is not enough now, and I am upgrading that before we hit the dyno. 4th gear feels like most cars in 2nd gear.

Keep in mind this is a S4 FC3S block( S4 small irons), no extra dowels, and stock apex seals.

I also need to move up the duty cycle in the Adaptronic boost controller for the higher rpms too, hence the teeny bit of boost fade up top.

 

Good stuff right there. Have any testing with the 1.45 housing?

 

What alternator are you upgrading to? and, are these turbos (EFR lineup) available without the factory BOV?

 

We wont be ready to test the 1.45 for some time.

A local shop upgraded an FD alternator for us.

You can block off the oe bw bov port if you already have a bov.

 

Does anone know someone who uses it?

Would it be a better option for a Semi-PP with the lower backpressure?

 

do you think a 9180 would surge badly on a ported 20b?

 

As you gain displacement the flow of the engine moves more to the right of the compressor map away from the surge line. I doubt you will have problems with the surge line but rather have problems with the turbo choking the engine depending on boost level.

a 13B acts like a 2.6 Liter depending on the inputs you put into matchbot. a 3 rotor is going to act like a 3.9 liter depending on VE which moves the points all to the right.

 

My personal opinion is a 20b with a 9180 will result in one of the best power curves we have ever seen on a rotary. Would be an absolute animal on the street and likely capable of trapping 140+ in the 1/4. Should make for an incredible setup.

 

Which AR would you recommend for 9180 on stock ported 20B; shooting for 550whp?

 

We have a customer running the 1.05 on his 3 rotor at 20psi( pump and methanol injection). He already had a T4 manifold on the car with a PT76 turbocharger. He said he would hop on the dyno soon, but he was blown away with the power/performance. He said traction is his biggest issue.

 

Bringing an old thread to life. Has anyone had experience with the 9180 on the 20b.

I have the 1.05 t4 rear but I have been tossing up between the 1.00 V-Band for a cleaner manifold or the 1.45 because the 1.00 and 1.05 may choke a 20b bp (builder is talking me out of semi-pp for now)

Would love to hear some real world experience with this combo.

 

No real world experience on this, but the 1.45 A/R 9180 on the 20b would be like a 7670 response on a 13b. You'd definitely choke the thing out with a smaller A/R... That'd be epic. Just do it and report back! Who needs calculations, it's only money!

 

Haha thank you Sir, I shall give it a go and let you know how I go

 

is this on the 9180 or the 8374?

 

9180, how is your car coming??