Johnsgxl

Ok this may be a dumb question but how are the balanced ?Are the wheels balanced separetly then put together or are they balanced while the turbo is together?Only reason im askin is if it the first one I should be able to rebuild it and it retain its balance,,,right?

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

There is static balancing and dynamic balancing. Typically the turbine and compressor wheels are statically balanced individually and placed on a shelf till a turbo is spec'ed and built. Once the center section and all the bearings are in place and the compressor and turbine wheels are mated it gets a dynamic balance on a high speed electronic balancer called a VSR Balancing Machine. It then gets its housings and is sent to the customer or placed on a shelf for OEM. Not all turbo's get VSR dynamic balancing. Garrett's early procedures for T3 and up sized frames simply took the already static balanced wheels and were slapped together. The smaller framed turbo's had to get a dynamic balance because their shaft speeds are far faster and the imbalance would cause destructive harmonics. ALL ball bearing turbo get and must have dynamic balance. It has become common practice now though to dynamically balance all turbo’s.

If you plan on rebuilding your own turbo, you don't have to get a re-balance so long as there isn't any FOD damage (foreign object debris) or excessive erosion on either the turbine wheel or the compressor wheel. It is important however to take note and mark how one wheel is clocked in relation to the other and make sure they go back together the exact same way. You can simply scribe a mark on the shaft and the compressor and just make sure on re-assembly those mark are aligned before tightening the compressor nut.


~Mike................

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

Johnsgxl

No there isn't ant damage to the wheels but side to side shaft play is .030-.050.Some people have said that I can still use it like this(and may have 10,000 to 20,000 miles left in it)but im not going to risk it when a turbo rebuild kit is cheap and a engine one is not!

And what would be a good size wastegate to prevent boost creep?The turbo is a to4b35 on a e-bay(ftw) stainless header.oh bov or no bov what U guys think?

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Typically, you should be able to get away with a 40~44mm gate, but this is dependant on the manifold design and how your exhaust is set up after the turbo and wastegate. YES, run a BOV, ignore the idiots that say you don't need it, its cheap safegaurd.

Another note, those rebuilding turbos.... make sure you clean every thing 100% clean and free from caked on funk. If you do a half assed job on the cleaning and leave left over carbon or guke on the turbine wheels, you've just created an imbalance. SO make sure you clean every thing SPOTLESS with exceptions of the housings (they just cant have anything that could come loose). I personally media blast compressor and turbine wheels then hit the shaft bearing surfaces with a little polishing (and make sure not to blast any bearing surface). If theres any visable wear, like the shaft being smaller diameter were it rides bearing, then its probly a bad turbine/shaft (those do not come apart from one another). You could just use strong solvents, like car or brake cleaners or soaking inn desiel over night.

~Mike................

coolmike711

iTrader: (7)

I say send the turbine and compressor wheels to be balanced. I sent mine to turbocity, they turned them around in one day.Cleaned and balanced: $35.00.

Johnsgxl

Yeah I can soda blast em with a sand blaster to remove anything but the metal from the wheels.And I know the turbine don't come off the shaft! Im not retarded just rotarded lol

Johnsgxl

Yeah,,,Im pretty **** when it comes to cleaning anything.When I put my truck motor in most of the time spent was cleaning stuff.