slpin

iTrader: (9)

Have you guys ever experienced this?
My PFC uses the temperature sensor on the water pump housing
my factory gauge is at the rear iron.

it is a fc3s on a hks log with a gt40.
no heatshield

basically what i am seeing is 115-120C on a hot day.
The factory gauge is normal
If I spray water on the waterpump housing, it evaporates...
if I spray water on the rear iron, it stays there...

Anyone else seen this?

What are you FC guys doing with your passenger front brake line in this type of setup?

Just curious - Im making heatshields tomorrow.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

and yup
before power fc reads 115 - 120C on display

one heatsheild on the turbo

it now reads 82C and no more than 85C max.....

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

That gives you an idea what happens to your AITs with the turbine housing heating the lower intake manifold; - 5% power...

rx7MOUSA

I actually experienced something very similar to this just yesterday. I'll have to wait until my PFC Commander comes in and try reading some numbers. Right now I have pretty crappy wired up water temp gauges. And the factory gauge in my dash cluster.

Thanks for the words of wisdom.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

First replace the water temperature sensor on the back of the housing with a brand new one from Mazda. I had to do that on mine, it wasn't reading accurately. A friend had to do that was well on his FD. The water temperature sensor will heatsoak if you cut the car off and go inside somewhere than come back. But if you then sit at idle with the fan running it should come down.

On my 88 T2 with a brand new sensor I would get up to maybe 100-105C at a hot start, but it would come down rapidly after that (once the waterpump began circulating again) and settle at 86 C. At the time I was running the factory clutch fan and OEM thermostat. The IAT sensor on the TB elbow (under the UIM for FD) will heatsoak as well. This can be problematic as it may lean out your mixture on hot start to the point where idle quality suffers.