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GT40R Brand New blowing oil???

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Old 04-11-06, 11:26 AM
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GT40R Brand New blowing oil???

Just wanted to get you guys' opinion. I have a freshly built motor. Not even driven for break-in yet. Brand new GT40R turbo kit. I have a -10 drain on the turbo, a -4 feed with restrictor. The motor is vented on the filler neck, but oil is being pushed through my turbo on the front and back. WTF??? Could a bad PCV valve cause this? Thanks for all input. I am at a loss for what to do here, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Dee
Old 04-11-06, 12:12 PM
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You, should contact the place you bought the turbo from. Sounds to me as if the turbo itself may be bad. "may be" I say. Some have a tendency to let some oil out the back side on initial startup. This is because there is a ring gap just like on a piston ring. This will seal pretty quickly with use. If you are getting it out of the front and it's not under boost it could be other issues. However I would not try anything else at this point. I would remove it and send it back for inspection. Whoever you bought it from should be able to handle this for you. If not contact a MD they can handle the warranty work. Garrett is very very slow up to over 90 days at times just a heads up.
Old 04-11-06, 05:45 PM
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Anyone have any info on the PCV valve causing problems?
Old 04-11-06, 05:59 PM
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what size restrictor are you running?
Old 04-11-06, 06:30 PM
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PCV should not cause oil coming out the compressor cover. If you have removed it and vented it on the filler neck you are having other issues. If you haven't removed it, remove it and run without and see if the problem persists.

-S-

Last edited by Zero R; 04-11-06 at 06:51 PM.
Old 04-11-06, 06:54 PM
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Oil return line is'nt kinked, is it?
Old 04-11-06, 11:44 PM
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PM Asleep. He had some serious blowby on his GT40R. I think an oil line restrictor and some venting has taken care of it.
Old 04-12-06, 12:30 AM
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Vent to the rear iron, and restrict down to .125 to start, and or call theplace you got the turbo from, ATP uses a .030 restrictor, other use a .060, and on my journal bearing I use the .125. I believe some people have solved the problem without a restrictor, but most have not AFAIK. According to precision the design oil pressure max is around 80 psi. I am sure Sean has strong ideas on this, as well as alot of first hand knowledge. Carl
Old 04-12-06, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by impactwrench
Oil return line is'nt kinked, is it?
exactly what i was thinking. I had my T78 rebuilt and it was blowing oil as well. It was just a kinked line. I ripped the whole front of the car apart, and it was just a kinked line. I couldnt see the kink because the braided line was wrapped in insulation.
Old 04-12-06, 04:24 AM
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80lbs in the turbo? i belive its much lower than that
Old 04-12-06, 08:51 AM
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I have PMed Asleep and am awaiting his response. No kink in the return line. I know that.
Old 04-12-06, 09:00 AM
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haven't you also had your motor rebuild 3 time on that turbo
Old 04-12-06, 09:37 AM
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I believe the .030 is too small. I've had people call with blown turbo's garrett wouldn't warranty due to oil starvation. Both had the .030 in them. The turbo itself is restricted down to about that internally. I would say .060 is a happy medium if you feel you need one. Carl yours is non BB correct? If so that would be why the .125 You can run a inline oil filter to knock some pressure down before the turbo. It wouldn't hurt it just means you better make sure it stays clean. I have had maybe one out of every ten where this may be a issue all without restrictors. Of those half winds up being something else.

If you've had the issue of blown motors chances are the turbo has had more damage than just a wheel. That means new CHRA most of the time.
Old 04-12-06, 11:05 AM
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zayrx7: There is no damage to the turbo itself as far as the wheels go. I cannot see inside the turbo, but I know that my motor has not shot anything up into the turbo. My motor did not blow up on this turbo. I have never popped a motor. The only reason the motor was ever redone was because we had oil and lots of smoke. Come to find out, it is the turbo blowing this oil. Yeah, my motor was redone once originally because I bought the car blown up, and then gone through again twice because we both said there was no way a brand new turbo would be blowing oil. Now all signs are pointing towards the turbo. I also found out last night that there is no restrictor fitting on it. But, so many people are saying to not run a restrictor. Why can I not get a correct answer from anyone? I don't understand why there are so many different opinions on this.

Last edited by mr2foryou; 04-12-06 at 11:28 AM.
Old 04-12-06, 11:10 AM
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Just for the record to everyone, my motor has never blown. I bought it blown and it was completely rebuilt before any of this new stuff was put on it, turbo kit included. The car was running great when all of a sudden lots of oil started coming out of my exhaust and lots of smoke. We then went back in the motor and went through everything again twice . Same oil and smoke now. Motor is great. Taken the turbo off and manifold is completely dry. Turbo is the only thing with oil in it and exhaust.
Old 04-12-06, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Carl Byck
Vent to the rear iron, and restrict down to .125 to start, and or call theplace you got the turbo from, ATP uses a .030 restrictor, other use a .060, and on my journal bearing I use the .125. I believe some people have solved the problem without a restrictor, but most have not AFAIK. According to precision the design oil pressure max is around 80 psi. I am sure Sean has strong ideas on this, as well as alot of first hand knowledge. Carl
I believe that Tony (Asleep) did vent to the rear iron as well as installed a restrictor of unknown size.

Be patient. It may take Tony a while to respond. 'Tween wife and kids, a director's position at work, and grad school for his MBA, he's a bit hard to get ahold of.
Old 04-12-06, 04:09 PM
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Breaking in...? Blown turbo? I don't know what I'm talking about.




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