GT35R , stock ports, and plugs tuning results
#26
development
I put these plugs in my leading but, wasn't pleased with the amount I was able to tighten them...Its almost just hand tight?!?!?! with a little "umph" until the hex is in the housing. Is this how you are installing them? Looks like a bitch to remove.
I installed one on a spare housing I have and it doesn't even look like a slim socket could tighten it more.
plugs act as described though...rough cold start, and screaming thru the revs. These are amped with a 6A. Feels a bit more responsive low rpms once warm, could be just new plug freshnwss???
I installed one on a spare housing I have and it doesn't even look like a slim socket could tighten it more.
plugs act as described though...rough cold start, and screaming thru the revs. These are amped with a 6A. Feels a bit more responsive low rpms once warm, could be just new plug freshnwss???
#27
Eye In The Sky
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If you are running a PFC and have a rough cold start, then your idle mixture and/or Water Temp Correction Table are not properly adjusted. Mine cold starts fine and drives fine when cold.
I use the Racing Beat special plug socket
https://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm
"select IGNITION/THIN WALL SOCKET"
and a small 3/8" drive 25 to 250 inch pound torque wrench to torque my plugs to 120 inch pounds (10 foot pounds).
Use a good grade of anti-seize, hand tighten, then torque to 10 ft lbs.
Easier to do from under the car.
I use the Racing Beat special plug socket
https://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm
"select IGNITION/THIN WALL SOCKET"
and a small 3/8" drive 25 to 250 inch pound torque wrench to torque my plugs to 120 inch pounds (10 foot pounds).
Use a good grade of anti-seize, hand tighten, then torque to 10 ft lbs.
Easier to do from under the car.
Last edited by cewrx7r1; 05-19-05 at 10:32 PM.
#29
Yea mazdatrix wants 75 dollars for that stupid socket... Just grind one down yourself and save money... NGK B_EGV are great plugs. and if they are fouling out quick thats because of your tune not the plugs.. I have yet to foul out a set.
#33
Big Snail
So I would subract a couple of percent at a time correct? Chuck what temps did you adjust. thanks again Chuck.
Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
Low load is for idle. Afterwards a I make the same percent change to the high load.
You read the water temp on the monitor screen then jump to the cold fuel adjust screen and make a change for the equivalent temperature row.
You read the water temp on the monitor screen then jump to the cold fuel adjust screen and make a change for the equivalent temperature row.
#34
Eye In The Sky
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Originally Posted by 93FD3S
So I would subract a couple of percent at a time correct? Chuck what temps did you adjust. thanks again Chuck.
After you start the car, watch the monitor screen . If the water temp is below the 30C point, wait untill it reaches about 28 and then quickly go to the adjustment screen and change the fuel up and down to find a midpoint between lean and rich extreams. Then back to the monitor screen waiting until the temp reaches about 48C. Then repeat the process for 50C. To do the 10C point, you will now have to wait until next fall unless you live up north.
The next day you can repeat the process again until you like the results.
Every car is a little different due to the mods we have made.
This is not rocket science. Think about what you are trying to do and logically solve the problem.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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