I was running NGK BR9IEXs with my stock twins when making 350RWHP. So I kept them when working on my new GT35R installation and tuning. As time and tuning progressed, high rpm smootheness and power started to fluctuate. Good one day and not so good the next..

I swapped with another used but good set of the BR9IEXs, but the same problem stayed. So I decided to change plugs.

I always liked the BnEGVs because of no resistor and better idling, and always ran them before the iridiums came out. I installed a set of B10EGV, and my GOD, the engine really came alive. I was also able to remove 2% fuel at idle and it is smoother than before.

Plugs really can make the difference!

 

Heya Chuck,

Are you using them for both leading and trailing? Also, where do you get them?

Thanks,

Attila

 

I also just started running the NGK B10EGV in all four. I have them gapped at .024. I'm running the newer version of the Jacobs rotary pack and a Turbo II leading coil with Magnacore 10MM wires. The only thing I don't like is when starting a cold motor the idle isn't smooth as when I was running all NGK 9s. The idle does smooth out when the motor is warmed up. I took out about 6 percent fuel at 1K rpms on the power FC. I'm gonna try taking out another 2 or 3 percent to see if the cold idle is better. I did a couple of runs on about 11 psi and knock sensor only got up to 40. So far so good, I guess we'll see how the plugs hold up when I can finally turn up the boost. Chuck what gap are you running with the EGVs?

Atihun you can get the plugs at Advanced Auto Parts. They will have to order them takes a day or two. About $4.50 each. And you'll have to grind down a spare spark plug socket to install the EGVs.

 

Buy a Snap On spark plug socket and you'll never have to worry about grinding one down...

 

erm, dunno bout you FD guys buy i just use the 13/16 spark plug sockets from pepboys, dunno if theyre thinwall or not

hmmmm, sparkplugs. makes me want a CDI box even more on my t2!

 

Attila,

Normally I buy my plugs from sparkplugs.com, but since I needed them ASAP;
I went to a local motorcycle shop.

Used them in all 4 locations.

Chuck

 

this is great information. i am curious as well as to whether or not you run these for both lead and trail.

 

I run them at their stock gap which is about .023".

My cold start is fine.. First you adjust the idle mixture for a fully warmed up engine.
Then wait overnight so you have a fully cooled off engine and morning colder temperatures. Then as the engine warms up you go through the WATER TEMP CORRECTION table and adjust each posible point for leanest smooth cold idle.

 

oops!

i didn't refresh the page before i posted or else i would have seen that you answered my question 15 minutes ago.

 

So you're saying the iridiums suck?


-Ted

 

Iridium's are the biggest pieces of **** ever made, put them in your motor at your own risk !

Saw three of them fall apart on the week end on a Supra motor !

B*EGV are the bomb, only plug I use and recommend

 

Hey Chuck, is the number 10 on them the heat range?

I was always afraid to tun non-rotary plugs in my car, how did you come up with the idea to run motorcycle plugs, is it safe?

Thanks for sharing your marveless ideas...

 

Heat range of 10 is B10EGV.

This idea has been around since first gens were first modded. I ran B9EGVs in my 1983 street ported 12A first gen. Takes a special thin wall socket.

 

Bryan at BNR and SPOautos have been talking about these for years running them up to 18 psi on pump gas. Glad it worked out for you Chuck

http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chap...7AF32EDD26395E

 

what do you guys think of running 2 B9EGV's and 2 B10EGV's ??? Think itd have any cold idle advantage over running all B10EGV's?

 

wow nice find chuck

think ima try these out

 

allready ordered mine & socket from RB
We'll see !

I'm very curious on their failure (fowling rate) since I've been doing a bang up job on BUR9's lately !

 

thats what i am running on my car right now.. i think.. they are the motorcycle plugs.. thats what i also used for the tune that i made 375rwhp at.... they are really good plugs and i left them at the stock gap which i belive is .23 (because the .22 fit and the .24 didnt)

i think the only downside of running these is that they foul out a little sooner than the stock plugs... and also, the cold idle is a bit rough but its gotten a lot better after the tune...

-Roman

 

I installed the irridium BR10EIX plugs and noticed a substantially improved idle. Car runs fine gapped to .25 with these plugs. Did a bit of tuning (using that term loosely as there were issues with the dyno) yesterday with the EIX plugs and they did fine BUT they do not like to start the car when hot compared to my old standard BUR9 non-platinum (they never have the plat's in stock). I ordered a set of the B10EGV and going to pick them up here shortly from Autozone. They were $4 and change with a 1 year warranty. Sparkplugs.com was about .75 cents higher plus shipping with no warranty. I'll report back when I have them in.
Michel

 

https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,NGK

Here's a link to where I buy my plugs. Really fast shipping and good service. made several orders with no problems.

chuck

 

Chuck thanks for the info. So Would I be adjusting the light load (left row) or the heavy load (right row)? Or both? Also at what temps? It shows from -30 C to +80 C. I really appreciate the info, thanks Chuck!

 

have you ever run into rfi related issues with the non-resistor plugs?

 

Low load is for idle. Afterwards a I make the same percent change to the high load.

You read the water temp on the monitor screen then jump to the cold fuel adjust screen and make a change for the equivalent temperature row.

 

No, but you can greatly reduce all RFI.

Did you know that Mazda made another serious desgin flaw with their ignition wiring? It can be easily fixed and the result is hotter sparks even with stock ignition.

The ECU on the pasenger side, fires the ignitior on the driver side. OK we will accept this approximate 6' of wiring.

But instead of running the ignitor to coil wires directly to the coils which are about 18" away, they wired them back over to the chassis harness by the ECU, out to the harness that goes to the right front fender then over to the left front fender were it finally goes to the coills. That is about 14' of wiring.

Cut the ignitor output wires and run them directly to the coil harness which you disconnect from the chasis harness.

 

good tip. thanks man!!