So im trying to get the gt35r for my stock port s5 13b. Pretty much have all the specs i want gonna post them let me know if anyone sees anything i should change but wondering if the anti surge option they offer really worth it? Do rotaries really have surge issues? It is for drifting so im guessing it could help with being constant on and off the throttle. I was reading that the anti surge option can decrease turbo spool by up to 500rpm. Should i just not get it and not look back on it?


GT3582R

dual ball bearing
t4 divided (twin scroll)
3" V-band downpipe outlet
1.06 a/r hot side
.70 a/r cold side with 4.00" air inlet & 2.50" outlet

 

All looks good, but lose the anti-surge. It'll serve as a boost leak and hurt spool..... unless you like the cool sound, then go for it

 

^+1

Another thing that will greatly help spool is a 3.5"+ downpipe and an atmosphere vented wastegate.

 

Thanks guys exactly what i needed to hear. Was not too sure the anti surge would have all that many benefits. I was planning on running two tial 38mm that are both just open dump under the car you think those would suffice? Still running 2.5in intercooler piping with my stock turbo right now do you think its necessary to up to 3in? Also anyone have any ideas on power range from still using the s5 stock ports? What boost levels i can safely run? Sorry still so many questions haha.

 

I'm also currently building my FD3s for drifting/road racing, 13B REW engine with stock ports. After many threads and some reading I contacted Elliot (Turblown Engineering)

After a long discussion via Mail I've got the following setup from him. The car is not done yet, but maybe it will give you some input...

GT3582R, divided 1.06AR, Elliots billet compressor wheel
true twinscroll stainless steel manifold with 2 seperate wastegates
2xTial MVS 38mm dumped to the atmosphere
3.5" downpipe
everything wraped in inconel heatshields

original quote from Elliot:

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The torque curve will be from 3 to 6.5k on this setup, and won't hold more than 18psi at redline( 8200). Should make between 470-500rwhp( mainly in the midrange @ 25+psi)

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You can stalk Elliots Facebook page, I think he will release a dyno sheet in the next time.

If you are not set yet to a soruce for your kit, I would recommend you to check him out.
Very nice guy, great support via Mail, really high quality work *thumbs up*

 

Thanks for the info SpAm@fc!!

Im currently building for a drift build so a 3k powerband would be very nice and midrange would be perfect as i dont need much power up top.

I just ordered the gt35r and two tial 38mm wastegates from a local shop that gave me a great deal. I got the same setup as you as thats what most people seemed to have the best results on, went with what was in my title.

Going to make my own manifold though to save some money. Probably going to make something similar to the turblown manifold as that looks well designed.

470-500 rwhp would be sick but id be happy with anything over 400. Is that what you are planning to run is about 18psi?

 

Also should i be upgrading my oil cooling system? Or should the stock oil cooling in the fc suffice?

 

Ahh so many questions haha. What line size and restrictor if any should I be running? -10 line size? If anyone has any answers don't hesitate to post em ill keep searching in the meantime.

 

I'm a turbo noob, but I think I understand how it works.

I can see how a larger downpipe and exhaust would help spool. But venting the wastegate to atmosphere doesn't seem like it would help with anything other than boost creep. Well that and making a bunch of noise.

After all the wastegate should be closed til you get close to maximum boost. And once the wastegate opens it is to prevent further "spooling".

If I am wrong could someone please explain?

 

It's the same either or. If its not dumped to atmosphere it's dumped into the exhaust. It would have no differences in creating boost creep. I personally like the sound of the atmosphere dump and its a track only car so noise wouldn't matter.

 

boost creep has nothing to do with how you route the wastegate. if anything the open dump wastegate is more robust because the wastegate has no restrictions at all to dump.

Higher performance can be attained with an open dump wastegate because you are dumping exhaust into atmosphere, and not back through a restrictive exhaust. so you tax the exhaust less with exhaust being bled off through the wastegate having lower backpressure in the exhaust since a smaller portion of the exhaust is going through it with an open wastegate vrs. a rerouted one.

 

^ +1

 

Still need some questions answered as i cant find much.

Stock oil cooling sufficient for the turbo?
Oil feed line size for turbo? Restrictor?
How much psi safely ran for stock ports?
1200cc up top suffice? Get id 2000's?

 

400 is what i plan to run on the track going sideways, as I've expirienced in other grippy chassis (for example full build ae86 with sr20+HKS Turbine @ ~400rwhp) that's a very sweet spot if you don't go too crazy with your tire choice... more power isn't really needed if you have the technique, hence, be honest, 300rwhp is also enough if you know how to drive your toy

my car will be mainly for track use, but sometimes I want to drive it on the streets, so I definitly will try to max out the setup -> I only have 200km to the German Autobahn, that's also a reason

I can not give you first hand expirience on the fd3s chassis as I just switched over to it... it seems that many guys are happy with their stock dual oil coolers, but you will put much stress on your engine with the higher output, higher chamber pressure, higher heat production.
Fighting heat is the number one priority on the rotary. You really can't have too much cooling (of course, you have to run prober thermostats), getting away oil heat will reduce the stress on your watercooling system to.
I got rid of my stock dual oil coolers and installed, as I got a GREAT deal on them, a new rotary extreme 34row dual oil cooler kit -> Chanches are high that I will never need that much surface (both of them have nearly the surface of my Koyo radiator) A nice dual 25row oil cooler kit from vendors like SakeBombGarage (great guys, I've got their AP racing BBK) or from rotary extreme will do the trick... There is also a nice DIY thread with all the fittings/parts you will need building your own setup with, for example, EARLS coolers
Never forget -> doesn't matter how big your coolers (Water/IC/Oil) are, without prober ducting they are just a piece of heavy metal...

If you haven't already read about auxiliary injection, it would be a good idea to have a look at the great threads of Howard Coleman (it seems tat he is also a fan of the GT35 series for our engines )... I will run a 50/50 water/meth mix using a Aquamist HFS3 + summer module to reduce intake temperatures and combustion chamber temperatures.

Check out the forum, use the search function, read up on road course builds and steal their ideas... So much great builds are waiting to be explored on this board...

 

Thanks man appreciate the info. I know the fd's have better cooling with the dual coolers. I have an fc and has a small oil cooler. Hopefully that will suffice until i get some more money. Im also front mount and not v mount so my temps hit 200f on these hot summer days in florida. Normally just lose the hood and it stays 180f. Also have the t2 hood but doesnt vent well. I know putting down 400hp will put a lot more stress on the car then the 275-300hp im running now on the stock turbo. Trying to figure out what ill need to keep everything safer.

 

I have a GT3574R on my car. I did a lot of cooling stuff for the car but nothing too over the top.

I am running 19row dual oil coolers.
16PSI radiator cap, mazmart Remedy water pump, new 180F thermostat (beck arnley)

I have a Koyo radiator with a M2 (greddy knock off) FMIC with ducting to get all the air into the radiator I can.

I also ducted my oil coolers. I used AL ducting.

I have a large air filter that can handle the turbo.

I have a T4 .84 hotside turbo, 3" all the way back with 1 (44MM) tial wastegate dumping to atmosphere.

I rewired my fuel pump running a supra pump, new fuel filter.

I run 650CC EV14 primaries and 2000CC secondaries and run the FFE rails. aeromotive A1000-6 FPR.

When boosting 17PSI (14PSI sea level) I use about low 70%'s injector duty cycle.

I think 91 pump fuel can handle 14-15PSI (sea level) safely.

My car does not run too hot, runs great. Not sure about the FC and the oil cooling capabilities. I think my feed line is a -8??? perhaps a -10? I forget, sorry.

 

It's okay thanks I thought the feed like was around a -10. Any restricter bring ran in the line? I appreciate the advice cause I'm a little worried about cooling. Running a pretty big aluminum radiator, eBay knock off front mount, and stock oil cooler. Maybe I should switch to dual oil coolers mounted on each side of the intercooler. You say your car doesn't run too hot is this a street car. Ill be on and off full throttle for about 2 minutes doing runs and it's hard to stay cool on my stock turbo right now

 

Yes, there is a oil restrictor in my line. I forget the sizing though. it's pretty small.

 

Oh okay well thanks ill have to search some other forums for the sizing of line and restrictor. I'd assume its turbo related and would be the same sizing for any type of car running this turbo

 

It looks like this.

-4 Garrett Ball Bearing Turbo Oil Restrictor

 

Cool thanks man. Hopefully the turbo comes with some directions on line and restrictor size? I would assume they would as it would be smart too so people arent blowing turbos with wrong sizes and sending em back for warranty. I guess i could always call and see what size they recommend.

 

Can someone else confirm that these will work with my stock 91 fc t2 rails? Saw them on other sites but they said they only fit the 86-88 models. I have 750cc rc injectors up top now and 550cc stock ones down low. Planning on throwing the 750cc down low and these 1600cc up top. My stock secondary rails have been cut and rewelded with proper fittings for my fuel pressue regulator but is still the stock rail. Just need a second opinion on fitment I know some people say rc is garbage and to get id2000s but they are pricey. And the fact that i already have some rc in there already so i want em to match.

RC Engineering 1600cc Fuel Injectors Mazda RX-7 PAIR 11mm [HR-PB2-1600-RX7] - $289.00 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT,

 

go injector dynamics or go home :-), they are not that pricey but gives u some more insurance against knock and more even rotor vs rotor tuning since they are nicely flowmatched, or do u use dual egt's or wbo2's?, atleast this is what my tuner said to me and he doesnt even sell em!

 

Those 1600cc rc injectors is what im trying to run. Not trying to have different injectors in primary and secondary. I know they will suffice with what i need them to do. Just need to figure out if they will fit or not as i can get a really good deal on them aswell.

 

Why would you post on my thread? You have not contributed any knowledge. All of your 9 posts have been absolute meaningless posts.