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GT35R motor build. Best upgrades to do?

Old Nov 18, 2010 | 02:34 AM
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GT35R motor build. Best upgrades to do?

In the middle of doing a GT35R with Turblown and looking to do a few necessary upgrades. Thought about posted here to see what is proven or a waste of time. I am looking to coat the manifold and downpipe including a nikonel insulator to keep temps down. Looking to lay down 550hp with mid 20's of boost. Who makes the best larger oil pan that holds an extra gallon of oil to keep the engine cooler. May upgrade the fuel rails and oil cooling. What do you guys recommend on these built Rx7 motors? I want to get what is necessary besides the great turbo manifold kit. I will keep this up to date at the motor is finished and post dyno numbers. Here are some intial pics....bone stock will no longer exist.
Attached Thumbnails GT35R motor build.  Best upgrades to do?-canonsd780is-249.jpg   GT35R motor build.  Best upgrades to do?-canonsd780is-247.jpg   GT35R motor build.  Best upgrades to do?-canonsd780is-250.jpg  
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:49 AM
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I use dual setrab oil coolers. My oil temps are always low. I have a 35r with a 1.00ar turbine, 14lbs, 93 octane only, and make 523whp. I am also running a ducted v-mount. The v-mount keeps everything cool. My temps all stay low even at track events, along with hot lapping. Cool car by the way, love widebody FC's.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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Pineapple racing sells a larger capacity aluminum oil pan. Another option is to relocate the oil filter to the front of the car with an adapter plate, and run an oversized filter adapter (HP-1 or similar). It will add a bit more volume to the whole system, and help keep temps down a bit.

Generally speaking, the FC oil cooler is pretty damn capable with some half-decent ducting, but it will always depend on the type of driving you plan on doing. With that front end, you could always go with two smaller oil coolers in the brake ducts instead.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 12:31 PM
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Thanks....will look into those oil coolers. I wonder how much of a temperature drop I will see.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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i doubt you will see a temp drop from going to dual coolers over the stock FC cooler, but the upside to dual coolers is you can bring water temps down which in turn cool the oil slightly. why do you think you need a larger capacity oil pan though? to further keep temps under control you will need to do a custom v-mount intercooler setup versus the typical front mounts that everyone has been doing, once past around 400WHP it is very difficult to keep coolant temps under control while driving more spirited for any decent amount of time.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 01:28 AM
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Going to do the Nikonel turbo heat shield and downpipe coating on kit from Turblown. Should keep underhood temps really low
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilddr805
Going to do the Nikonel turbo heat shield and downpipe coating on kit from Turblown. Should keep underhood temps really low
Inconel
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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I was curious to see what this "nikonel" was

And in all honesty, I would avoid the pineapple oil pan. I've had one for years and while I didn't have any real "problems" off the go, over the years its just become a lump of ****.

Drain plugs are fucked (they were torqued in from pineapple to a billion foot pounds) because they're stripped. It's leaked (seeped) since the second time I installed it. And other then looking cool when you wipe the oil film off it really does nothing for a street car (ie. windage tray etc.) If I were to do it again I'd pocket my $350 and just build one out of sheet metal using drain plugs with real heads
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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Which is the better investment than? None or which one you like classic? Glad to get your input on the design. Stripping is no fun at all.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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Looking good Elliot. The coating pics u sent yesterday look really bitchen.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FDWarrior
I use dual setrab oil coolers. My oil temps are always low. I have a 35r with a 1.00ar turbine, 14lbs, 93 octane only, and make 523whp. I am also running a ducted v-mount. The v-mount keeps everything cool. My temps all stay low even at track events, along with hot lapping. Cool car by the way, love widebody FC's.
523 @14psi? must have 3 rotors or
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by FDWarrior
I use dual setrab oil coolers. My oil temps are always low. I have a 35r with a 1.00ar turbine, 14lbs, 93 octane only, and make 523whp. I am also running a ducted v-mount. The v-mount keeps everything cool. My temps all stay low even at track events, along with hot lapping. Cool car by the way, love widebody FC's.
That is extremely impressive to make 523whp at 14lbs with a 35r...

What modifications do you have done?

I have to replace my s366 was going to do a s372 but if people are making over 500whp with a 35r on a streetport then that makes me want to go with the 35r since it would spool a bit quicker then the s372.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by skir2222
That is extremely impressive to make 523whp at 14lbs with a 35r...

What modifications do you have done?

I have to replace my s366 was going to do a s372 but if people are making over 500whp with a 35r on a streetport then that makes me want to go with the 35r since it would spool a bit quicker then the s372.
FDWarrior has a thread on his set-up ----> https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/how-defined-does-35r-2-rotor-929379/










.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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Oh thats a bridgeport, thought it would of been a common streetport. FDwarrior sure does have a nice setup i think. Turblown does some great work I think by reading some posts of the work he's done, so I am sure this setup will make plenty of power. As for me I still will be going with the S372 from borg worner.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 10:39 PM
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I'm pretty sure the compressor can't flow that much air at 14 psi but what would I know
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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Planning to run over 20 psi with the Turblown kit. I will let him chime in on details of the flow.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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Adding more oil capacity won't lower the oil temp; it will turn the volume of oil into a slightly larger heat sink that will take slightly longer to heat up. If you've ever boiled a gallon of water on the stove you'll understand that the time it takes for 1 gallon of water to boil vs 1.25 gallons isn't very different.

Increasing the air flow through the heat exchangers and out of the engine compartment would be good. Do you need to run the front license plate in CA? Are you running an under tray?

Is E-85 an option in your area?

Nice looking car. I like that shade of silver.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by G's 3rd Gen
523 @14psi? must have 3 rotors or
On 93 to boot. Something is not washing here for me either.
I am not going to call anyone a liar though, I would suggest throwing the car on superflow or a maha dyno, the dyno he was on could be 20% out in comparison to other dynomometers.
Dynoing a car whilst icing the intercooler produces spectacular numbers as well. The sure way to know is for him to post datalogs of the duty cycle, with the injector and fuel pump sizes.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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Turblown that is a nice wrap job!!! i hope to have a manifold wrapped like that someday
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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Will post dyno numbers soon. Engine is about to be built up with a large streetport.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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I find coatings to be a waste of time stainless shields are the way to go
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 11:14 PM
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Shields are really supposed to deflect a lot of heat. Coatings are better than nothing though.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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We use to just use sheet metal & coatings, this works a lot better...
Attached Thumbnails GT35R motor build.  Best upgrades to do?-100_5522.jpg  
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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All done..
Attached Thumbnails GT35R motor build.  Best upgrades to do?-100_5548.jpg  
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