I'm having bad Breakup on the AEM Box, swapped it for the HKS, made 8 HP, and significantly reduced the oscilations in RWHP. I fear though that my coils are bad, since other than,

1) Igniter
2) Wires
3) Coils
4) Plugs

there's nothing else left....
Igniter is working, has been tested as good, and if it wasn't it wouldn't even fire/trigger the plugs
Wires are relatively new 1 Year Old 10mm Magnacore
Plugs are brand new 9's

That leaves the coils, since I allready stated that 2 different ignition amps were tested and could not completely rectify the situation.

I ended up with

270 RWHP
10 Psi Boost
Street Port
Full Exhaust
Gt 35/40 Single Turbo
550 Pri / 1680 Sec. Fuel

The HP / Tourque curve just platoed, after 5-6k RPM....

Also are there diffrenent manufacturers of coils, one beeing better than others !?

I know FC Coils are supposedly better, but I lack the real-estate under the hood, not to mention the desire for the ensueing wireing / ignitor headache that follows.

I'll try and Post the Run Comparing HKS to AEM and you can see the breakup, I don't have a printout of the run @ 270, but I do have a run @ 250... again bad breakup... I wish I could be happier, but I'm not...

Anybody running the 35/40 kit... want to comment on what ignition setup you're getting 400 RWHP ??

I'm especially curious as to the coils age, and the plugs heat range, since I think it's crazy to run 10-11's since I'll have all kinds of fowling issues to contend with, since I daily drive it 4-5 mi to work, and L.A. Traffic is world famous for beeing zippy, oh wait no.... it's horrible... and the last thing I want to do is get stuck in it due to a racing plug gone bad ...

-DC

 

I have a good set of coils if you need them?

 

Derek,

Your mileage may vary, but I have used B10EGV plugs on the street with no fouling issues for several thousand miles. And I am running B10EIX Iridium plugs now with no apparent problems on the street. I would think the B10EIX would be less prone to fouling than the B10EGV since the center electrode is smaller.

Ironically, I think I fouled a BUR9EQP plug when I first got the car back. It was running on one rotor for a few minutes (as I shat bricks) and then it started working again.

Some ignition boxes kill the stock coils. I have heard of the Crane HI-6 doing that, and I would expect some of the others to be coil-killers, too. The HKS box, while probably not as powerful as some others on the market, does seem to help (as evidenced by your dyno smoothing) and doesn't seem to kill the stock coils.

-Max

 

My GT35/40 made 370hp @13psi using HKS Twin Power.

http://hksusa.com/products/?id=842&rsku=5990

It's since been tuned to 15psi on 93 octane pump gas using a wideband O2 sensor on the road, so I can't tell you the results.

 

Derek, we might have another tuning thing going on in a few months again... would you be intrested in giving another wack at it?

also, change things one by one and see what happens.. but do what Steve suggested, change the wires..... but mine are just as old.... and seemed to be fine

 

I'm with Max on the plugs. I am using the br10eix plugs, and there is no issue with fouling. They are cheaper than the 9's too.

 

This suggestion is useless without links

I found a link / page online, as well as in the repair manual I got @ SS7 that lists the resistance / specs for stock parts, and when they're out of spec to replace them, so I'll be tearing off the UIM tomorrow or thurs. and checking / replacing anything that's not within spec... maybe even stuff that's bearly in... just to make sure I have a descent running stock system.

Anybody wanna swing by ??

Also ray @ malloy suggested I get the "New" ignition harness which removes / improves the ground on it... ??? is this something a lot of you have done !?

-DC

 

David is right, the plugs I'm using are BR10EIX, rather than B10EIX.

I've got the stock original (crispy) harness on my car, including the coil sub-harness. Except that I have a J&S unit spliced in, and it eats the signal from the ECU and spits out it's own signal to the igniter -- IOW my ignition signal is really coming from the J&S rather than direct from the ECU.

-Max

 

why don't you swap in some t2 coils? cheap, abundant, and good.

 

I'd need to do a lot of re-wireing to get the ignitors to fire the stock T2 ignitors, to fire the coils, it's not just a swap, and I'd need to source some room in my engine bay, to put them as they wouldn't fit under UIM....

 

I am having a similar problem tuning my 35R at 14psi without an ignition amp (because the AEM has been out for warranty repair for -get this---6+ weeks!!?). I have found that leaning it out lessens the problem, but it will also reduce your margin of error.

For reference my setup:
Boost: 13.8-14
AFR: 11.4-11.8
Problem Area: 4800-5200rpms
Leading Timing: 13
Split: 11 deg

No amp
New (used) 20,000 mile leading coil
Stock 9s all around with ~1,000 miles on them
10,000 miles on the plug wires
Ground straps galore.

 

I've seen your post on the AEM Electronics forum, I feel for you man, for some reason I'm not having those kinds of issues, but none the less I have others....

Here's the Dyno For the AEM / HKS Comparison

HKS = RED

AEM = Blue

Nothing changed between runs, we didn't even take the car off the dyno, just plugged in the loop through for the AEM, and hooked up the HKS....

 

I am running the same exact setup with the J&S knock sensor, and all original crispy wires off of the harness.

 

who said anything about the ignitors? coils are + and -...

 

Measure the coil charge time with a scope. When we first started using the aem on the RX-7's the software was configure incorrectly. At higher RPM the coil charge time would only measure 1.5ms instead on 3.5ms even though the software would show 3.5ms.

 

So, what did you do !? Which Parameter did you check, and what did you set it to !?

 

Well So I Replaced my Coils, All 3, just to make sure, and checked the wires, Comparing numbers with Steve, and everything seems to be up to snuff.... Question now is if I make more HP.... But I do feel better going to the track with new coils, as opposed to Suspect ones...

Final Numbers on the Coils Wires were:

L Coil 1.0 Ohms
T1 Coil .8 Ohms
T2 Coil 1.3 Ohms

Shop Manual said replace after 1.0 Ohms

L Coil measured across the plug outputs 14 - 15 k ohms

Shop Manual said after 16 k ohm Replace


Wires measured

L1 1.6 k ohm
L2 1.9 k ohm
T1 1.7 k ohm
T2 1.3 k ohm

Shop manual states that 16 k ohm per 1m{3.28 ft} is what the spec is, I figure less resistance = better spark....

 

I will look for some extra TII coils I probably have lying around if you are interested like how we discussed. Let me know if your interested.

 

I do appreciate it, and I'll take 'em if all I have to do is pay shipping, I'm just concerned with how to wire them up, it doesn't sound straight foreward....