The question again is how much horsepower do you plan on making ????

If you plan on running 20 psi or less you cannot beat the performance from a T62-1 turbo...for street use P-trim/ .96A/R or 1.00 A/R would work out great as far as lag and max hp by ~7.5krpm ...~450-500RWH @ 17-22psi .

The T-66 is capable of making more horsepower but boost pressure will need to be raised.

KKK turbo: I have no knowledge.....

There's a few claiming of making hp numbers at low boost.... some might be true but others clearly BS mainly when their own dyno sheets don't back them up.

To make high HP you will either need boost or rpm.... simply not gonna make ~470RWH @ 1 bar spinning the motor no higher then 7.5krpm.

Later,
John D.
88 10th Ann Ed T-II
10.80 @ 130mph
11.1 @ 129mph -drag radials

 

I can back the words written by Boostn7 110%.....

The you gotta remember that compressor maps are beautiful things, they tell you what range a certain compressor is EFFICIENT in, there are MANY MANY cases where power is lost when going to a larger compressor when you are "only" trying to make 500BHP.

Simple rule, if it's within the map then use that compressor, learn to read pressure ratio's as stated above if your %VE is not higher and hence your rpm's are not higher as well the only way to get into that greater mass flow of air is to jump up the pressure ratio scale. When I mean jump, that is exactly what happens, we are not talking under 20psi here !

The ONLY and I mean ONLY exception to the rule here is extreme engines such as Peripheral Ports (and some bridges) where you get a huge increse in air flow without needing to reach for the sky in terms of boost pressure.

There is no magic to it, no tricks, no mystery tunes or any bullshit like that. Simple facts are as mentioned, street engines (non bridge or pp 13B rotaries) do not make 460+ rwhp numbers on 1 bar boost, street engines need to run on pump fuel, street engines run moderate advance.

Get real with yourself and what you are trying to achieve, and do not pick a turbo just because of how big it looks

 

Rice Racing: I have been in much discussion with my local turbo guy about compressor maps because I am getting closer and closer to the day I get my single turbo. I guess the topic came up that it seems that Garret underrates the efficiency of each island to a certain degree. I guess his thought is that they are assuring you worst case performance. What do you think of this argument and if you agree what do you think the best case efficiency would be and how much impact would it have in overall HP values?

 

Rice Racing: Any comments on the above post?

 

I would recommend the custom T 60-1 or T 62-1 route also. If you shop wisely, you can have the entire kit (turbo, manifold, wastegate, oil and wastegate lines, custom DP, and air filter) for around $2000.

I bought my 60-1 kit used for $1200 bucks.

 

I am really baffled. Bad combo or Bad luck?

I had a 60-1 turbo 'p' trim, mated to a 1.15 AR Divided on an UNDIVIDED manifold that was suppose to be custom made for the FD3S by south florida performance. Its also mated to an HKS 46mm wastegate with a 9 psi spring.

1) The Manifold that I order was 'custom' made for the 3rd Gen RX-7. Well, no one ever told me that I needed to cut, weld, recut, measure, play with myself, to make it fit. There was a long story, but I was upset, so I made it work. I had to cut the wastegate piping 4", rotate it, cut, rotate, to make it fit. Very poor design. Also, the manifold was undivided, when I ordered a divided manifold.

2) The turbo I purchased from turbonetics.com was suppose to have a CLAMP unit welded to the exhaust side on the turbo housing. Well, it wasn't. I had to have someone weld that on there to make it work. But, because it wasn't exact, the downpipe (which was also custom from SFP) didn't fit either. So, I have a perminate exhaust leak.

Regardles, its all being redone anyhow. But, even so.... Someone tell me: Low compression on a ported motor cause unbeliebable low hp?

312 rwhp at 16 psi of boost, 15o timing, 11.7 : 1 air to fuel.
Engine compression:

5.6, 5.6, 5.4 front rotor.
3.8, 3.6, 3.4 rear rotor.

Finally the engine gave out, took out the turbo with it. So, Since I am near ground zero (turbo gone, manifold sucks, downpipe 1/2 assed), so I was thinking about going to a T78. I can redo it all over again, maybe having XS make me a manifold or somethin..

Mike

 

My motor was shot with #s in the fives. Hardly started. You have a rotor in the threes. I've got to believe that motor was shot.

Ken

 

Where can u get the 62-1 for $2000. I would like to know. Thanks

1FAST7

 

Hey guys........
I just ordered the KKK single stage 2 from Ray. I should have it by this Tuesday or Wednesday. I running it w/ the Power FC and the RP fuel set up w/ fuel rail, 2 1600cc secondaries, and SX fuel reg. I'll have it installed by Altered Atmospere Motorsports and dyno tuned by KD Rotary by Nov.11
I'll let you guys know what kind of numbers I put up. BTW....I can only run a max of 17.5lbs of boost with the Power FC so thats what I'll be dyno tuning on.
I'll be getting the Haltech this spring.
Ernie

 

Well since you guys have brought up the T-66 i guess i should ask this question. How does a T-66 with Tang/Divided with a 1.15 A/R sound? As far as the o,p,or q trim i have no idea what those are so i dont know about that. Anyone help me with that please? Oh and im getting the BB option as well. What all do you need to run 22psi?? I know that you can only run with 17.5 psi with the PFC so should i get the upgraded bar sensor or just go haltech? I still want this to be streetable so i will only run 22 when im racing my friends. Otherwise ill be running prob 1 bar or so.
And does anyone know where you can get a trial WG??

 

does the power fc limit boost???? only 17.5? please post about this.

1FAST7

 

Yes it limits boost because of the map sensor it uses. You can get an upgraded one to support 2 or 3 bar but i have heard it is very inaccurate

 

Red RX7: I have a manifold that would work for you.....it's a combination of the Greddy SS and the FEED SS rapped up into one. Let me know what you think.....it's going to be steel.....good thickness so it won't crack and it will come with HP coating or sandblasted. I will also have a SS downpipe, SS midpipe, and some other parts as soon as they get back from the manufacture. You can reach me at turborx7@lvcm.com

All the parts will be done within about 3 weeks.....gotta wait on shipping that will take a little while. Pricing will follow shipment ......thanx

 

so the best way to go is haltech? do you need a fuel management system if you go with haltech? i dont think it comes with one...

1FAST7

 

The Haltech is your fuel mgmt. system. Put it this way, its the Pwr FC X 2, plus you get "real time data logging".

 

what is that newest model? how much does that go for? is it easy to install like the apex one? thanks

1FAST7

 

You don't need a different MAP sensor to boost higher than 17.5 psi on a Power FC, just need to supply additional fuel with a AIC, Rebic, or you can even use a F9 as an additional injector controller because after 17psi, the ignition map flatlines the rest of the way up in boost, all you need with a Power FC is to supply additional fuel, how do you think it's done in Japan people?

 

So basically you just need to re-program the stock ECU with the fuel and ignition values you want and just run with an AIC for the extra fuel needed!
Unless you're happy running up to 17.5psi!
I can't understand why would someone spend all the money and time on the Power FC just to be able to run with slightly larger injectors than stock and be limited to a certain boost lievel not to mention you're using the same crapy wiring harness that came from MAZDA with all the bells and whistles as an extra feature!
There must be something more to it than just that.
Anyone care to share their opinion?

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph
651RWHP/520RWTQ

 

Want to run higher boost levels with PowerFC? .... simple .. contact XS Engineering and you will be taken care of ... they remap the PowerFC for higher boost levels and you buy a 3 bar sensor. You can use the Apex boost solenoid or boost controller of your choice. The Apex will easily handle 1500 cc secondary and 850 cc primaries .... who needs more fuel than that? (Ok I admit plent of people do but how many under like 700 HP that would actually use the PowerFC? -- I think zero!)

 

I don't much about the PFC or the Haltech but doesn't the PFC still allow the car to run as a stock one would? Meaning if you change elevation you don't have to reprogram for that.....or am I way off? I thought that the Haltech has to be programed for every situation.....or any DFI system for that matter. If I'm way off then tell me to shut up

With the PFC and a Rebic you would be looking at about $2000 right? What about the Haltech? I know the PFC doesn't have data logging capabilities but other than that it's a pretty good system right? How deep would you be into the Haltech?

Are we talking about full on racing or street/strip?

 

Do you know of anyone running with the 3-bar map sensor with their Power FC? Has XS actually tuned one? I'm curious to see what they think of it.
Everyone so far say it's very inaccurate with the 3-bar map sensor.

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph
651RWHP/520RWTQ

 

I remember talking to someone on the forum who had the setup and he liked it. Heck someone in the PowerFC forum claims they just bought a boost kit from Srx7.com so I guess we'll see. I think XS has several people running that setup with no problems. I know the PowerFC is hugh in Japan so I guess the question is why not the US?

Supposedly with the boost kit on the PowerFC the stock MAP becomes your atmospheric pressure reading so that would take care of that situation. Otherwise I don't belive it takes any corrective measures for changes in elevation because it doesn't know how. This might be one of suganuma's problems (member on the forum) because he is missing some power .... could be that his car is running too rich from incorrect pressure readings. (He also has two other items to look at before we can pin the problem on incorrect MAP readings.)

The Haltech has three ways to address this problem. It just depends on how automated you want it to be! You can have it always adjust or you can manually enter the current pressure or you can have it check before you start the engine (and hold till you do the procedure again).

Haltech has data logging and it is going to get better with windows version of software so I hear. I also hear something about data logging coming for the PowerFC. Someone is working on it and details will be available as it is ready so I'm told. Basically you can tune EVERYTHING with a Haltech and you are somewhat limited by some tuning with the PowerFC because they don't open everything up to the user.

 

Thank-you....that clears a little up for me. I've just been running pump and reg. or AIC on all my cars or cars that I work on(not RX7's) I've never really gotten very in-depth on the stand-alone system. I'm trying to get more in tune with them. People most of the time just don't really feel like spending the money to have there car's shipped somewhere else. (since around Vegas we don't have many dyno's or people that can tune a stand-alone)

 

I think with data logging ... a some what wide-band O2 and an EGT you could do alright tuning on the street. That's what I'll be doing some of the time.

 

OK, how about this, some RX7's with the Power FC in Japan are running about 30+psi(Scoot car), and making BIG HP #'s, so basically there IS a way to do it with the Power FC, the question is DOES anyone in the US know how?