coop

I did a search, and the only thing I found was a how-to for the 2row...which i know is similar, but I can't get the IC pipes to line up...
Am I using the correct pipes in the right places? The turbo->IC pipe is tricky! and which pipe do I use coming off the turbo? Is the one inthe picture correct?
The last picture is looking down on the intake side of the IC...It is upside down...kinda

es

Yep, that's right. You're going to have to re-locate the AC pipes & fan relays by the compressor outlet so you can clock the turbo towards the fender well more.

I have pics of my setup that I can email you since I can't attach them here...

What turbo kit is that? Looks like you'll also have to trim down the turbo exit elbow on the turbo side to try & get it down further.

Did you try pulling up the I-1 pipe so that it's just in the coupling enough to seal?

93redFD

its a t78 turbo,correct?? yep, installing the 3 row is a bitch!!! I had to trim my bumper and all sorts a stuff.

rxrotary2_7

that looks right. now just loosen all the bolts around the back plate and turn the housing to line up. tighten back up and your set.

coop

AC is gone, so I don't have to worry about that stuff...I just need to rotate the turbo it looks like...I will try that when I have time and see what happends
Thanks!
-Dave

coop

Ok, I got it aligned...not too difficult.
Thanks for the help!

maxcooper

That looks nice!

-Max

1FooknTiteFD

looks nice, when you're done with the install make sure to post pics

es

I don't think your radiator's going to fit with it like that. From the T-78's I've seen you need to clock the compressor so that sand cast elbow actually rests where those 4 relays are now.

Unbolt the relay bracket, throw it away & stuff the relays behind the coolant reservoir filler neck. Then you will be able to move any wires out of the way & clock the turbo all the way over...

Enjoy,
Eric.

nocab72

es is correct, I just helped Zavier with a T78 install and that is what we had to do. yank the bracket, move the relays, then clock the turbo and shove the elbow as close as you can to the chassis (without actually touching it), metal against metal tends to eventually scrape though the weaker of the two metals.

vosko

iTrader: (4)

i need to clock mine more also

coop

humm...i will look at that...I have my radiator in there now...it is a little tilted. but it fits in...

nocab72

if you end up with metal rubbing metal, you may want to tie-wrap or epoxy some rubber pieces to keep from wearing wholes in your intercooler pipes...(that would suck).

What does everyone else do to prevent metal on metal when fitment is tight?

K

vosko

iTrader: (4)

yeah that is a problem i am having that i need figure out a solution.....actually i think if i take off the radiator hold down bar and grind down the end it won't hit the pipe .... hmmm i will have to check that out

nocab72

even when things don't "look" like they will touch, sometimes after beating on the car a bit, I notice new scrapes and try to find a way to stuff a rubber between the metal pieces and get it to stay in place...

es

I'm having a problem with the hood prop resting & rubbing on the IC exit pipe. That 3" pipe is huge!

rxrotary2_7

i used the outer rubber from the upper rad hose inbetween. ziptied through the rad. ghetto fab!! and yeah, my hood prop also does not seat right anymore.

3rdGen7

great .. so I'm not an dummy.. I had a really hard time as well.. and I'm using this ic with the twins for now
;-) ..but I'll need another turbo to ic pipe when I am ready for the single install and I had to mount my rad upright and use the oem crossover plastic pipe from the twins to by where the alternator is, then hose to just over the rad and then the ic "in" part comes up to meet the hose over the rad... phew.. if you can understand what I mean...the other side lined up easily to the GReddy elbow. argg.. I need sleep..ZZzzzz